GeeTR

Well 80% is considered a best practice ceiling... doesn't stop countless ppl hovering around 90% - 95% If you right, and the #'s are inverted... I guess 10-20% would be what you'd wanna keep it under (over?) lol Rem, thats at max load (airflow) the motors ever likely to see. Ppl keep that safety margin in case of a cold night, or a serious over boost.

Yah, chances are you'll be ok. Call em though to be 100%

Evening Mr 1 post. Every single Skyline has one of these mysterious "AFM's" hence you can bet cleaning them, has been covered to death.

I see, cheers Ray! I was going to flare that steam pipe out and fit a 50mm nice and low like that (late decision change) Kyle couldn't guarantee it wouldn't over boost though... The only other 6boost manifold Iv personally seen and witnessed with a low gate, uses a 50mm; prolly doesn’t mean much, just saying. There are a LOT of Jap and local made manifolds that are setup exactly the same as in the pic, so like you say, wouldn’t think its the setup. Odd.

Too easy, just bounce it and your away. Rem not to load the car up till tuned. I know when i fitted mine, even before tunning it was a fair deal more responsive down low, as it had a lot more ignition then stock... which coulda been an issue if thrashed on a hot day, with bad fuel etc.

Has it always ticked, or only recently started? Ticking is normal, the metal exhaust wants to expand and contract when it heats and cools. As the flanges bolt togethor hard, preventing even growth, they'll rub up against each other, making the ticking noise. Like a metal shed or roof as clouds go over head. Rattling could be a loose baffle in the muffler, or garbage in the cat (too big to go through the matrix)

Has the gate been welded straight off that stub, or has it been extended say, another 150-200mm to mount the gate low?

I detect drunk users with Sat night fever - LoL. Andru - I too use one of Kyles manifolds and a 44mm gate (long story) Could you please explain how your gate exits the collector? Did you get the m.fold with a small stub of pipe, and another radius bend to weld on yourself? How far is the gate from the collector; is it mounted close (on top) or have you done a 900 bend, having the gate a lot lower? Assuming you have a run of the mill 6boost manifold, he's had countless 350-400rwkw customer cars, plus a dood i knows 800rwhp setup. Before install pics, would be great!

Maybe he just really wants the "alchy"... ha

Interesting. To throw into the mixing pot, GTR factory rubber pipes into the IC and out of the IC... are insulated with a layer of some fibrous mat, then another layer of thin rubber sheet.

The locations under the bonnet ppl are talking about using the insulation, see less then a 1/10th the heat produced from a actual flame dood.

Sweet, whoring time

correction made IMO long lasting plugs have their role in engine configurations not as blessed as Nissan... like Subaru's abomination

I love Ghettto Think about a good set of b4 and after tests, so the comparison is apples for apples.

No response... This post has a picture that ell help you if your still stuck. The blue boost line goes to the sensor for the stock dash vac/boost gauge.

lol

Did they change the filler neck and dropped something in there while doing it?? Did they drill child restraints into the parcel shelf? clip a wire? Try and find out whats been done to your car recently.

Ozone (or thats what i call it) is that burnt smell when you 'let teh smoke out' of some hardware. Iv fried audio gear as a scrote and the whole cabin reeks of it. Not 100% sure, but would say the ECU has a constant 12v feed, and then switches a relay in the engine bay, when you hit ACC. Learn the ECU pin outs. Time to start hunting through the R34 workshop manual schematics... nothing like forced education for motivation. Good luck

Ha i rem this post. So is it shaking the ONLY thing it does? Sure its not idling on a few less cylinders then it should be? Tried moving your head around the engine bay when its occuring? Try zeh old screw driver to the ear trick?

Post #2 for the win Ignore the engine vacuum fluctuating; Its an after effect to your issue, not a precursor.

LoL - i had to read that 3 times before it didn't sound dirty

Up your bum Google tells me you have a turbo timer with a map sensor to measure boost... just like a lecky boost gauge. So just like a boost gauge, if you want it to measure vacuum and boost, you need to plumb it in somewhere between the throttle body and head. Look around, there'll be somewhere you can "T" it in. FYI: its best practice not to T it in to something thats "mission critical" sensitive to boost, like the FPR.

You no type goody england Theres a fairly comprehensive thread around SAU, in which URAS coughed up the latency times on many a model of Inj. You haven't mentioned you read it, so though i would.

Starter motor draw on a 4G piece of cable? - ouch. I use 0G for reference. Have you got a PFC hand controller? have you got the stock ECU to chuck in for a test? Not sure bout your R34, but a 32 runs power out the back corners of the engine bay, into the wheel wells then through the upper kick panel area. Did you smell ozone inside the car when it crackled? R34 on LPG sounds pretty trick never the less EDIT: Hrrrm, thinking more, not sure the 4G would killed it nessacerally. Is there a dodgey connection that arced maybe?

Ignition break down is mighty common in Nissan's - Skyline 101. There are even dedicated threads for it i believe. Your guess at unhealthy coils is a good start, but by no means the only possibility.