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GeeTR

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Everything posted by GeeTR

  1. Repost bruv, 8 posts up The loggin issue through separate apps is stressing me out too. Using some of Innovative's gear you can log so much stuff... but its still separate from Datalogit
  2. Well, if your running the EBC's solinoid on the drivers side, then you can use that OEM piping; its quiet convenient running neatly behind the head there. But if your running it on the passenger side... then clearly you don't need it. I would try and keep the solinoid close the the WG...
  3. The big one you point out is the BOV. The two smaller ones are the boost from the turbo compressor covers and then back to the wastgates i believe. The ends you can see... connect to the boost solinoid. Cant rem atm, which ones which... you'll need to know this as the solinoid only hooks up one way. The one you CANT blow through.. would come from the WG actuators.
  4. Sizes vary from 3 and 6mm (and a few others i think) Replace with rubber items from where ever you can get it the cheapest. I've just been going to Autobarn lately. As for specific ID and lengths... well if your doing it yourself, you'll be able to measure yourself no? Silicon is a different story. I don't personally use it, but last time I checked, CAPA has the cheapest rolls. (get some mates to chip in) Look around though, Ive seen some ludicrous prices, used to trick Honda boys.
  5. A US test some time ago, did prove the mesh ones to really be only good for stopping clowns on tricycles from being ingested. In all seriousness, I'm not sure how much wear the particles that get through, would do to your comp wheel / cylinders, but I'd still never run one. If your running an AFM, the best is the dry cotton Apexi units, though 99% of ppls use oiled foam.
  6. +11!1ity, I've got many a picture of this location hanging around. PS: Try and mount that diff breather so that grit and cats don't get in it.
  7. Account suspended Account for domain gtr.net.au has been suspended LoL - someone hasn't paid their domain reg fee's! Too busy working on customer cars.
  8. lol - A part of my brain tells me though "the weaker alloy is a good thing, as it make you more cautious when tourqing..." ... but I’m only lying to myself haha.
  9. Links like that need a NSFW warning, i almost blew a wad
  10. Woooonder-whoooore
  11. Hrrmm, I've always felt it increases throttle response, not so much "lag" I don't know anyone who's felt a bigger core / pipes increase the RPM point where the turbo goes positive pressure. Maybe my naive understanding of "lag" You'd think even a stock'ish GTR ingesting 400hp worth of air is going to fill that slightly bigger core pretty quickly, but alas it does affect throttle response. Ie, when your past the positive pressure RPM point, (say 4500rpm) and you get off / on / off the throttle. A good mate with an 430hp EJ20T noticed a fair wack of increased throttle response when going from stock top mount Air -> Water IC to a Plasma-Man front mount, and another 380hp EJ mate when replacing the stock Air -> Air top mount with 4" thick item. In these specific examples (back to back, nothing else changed) response, not compressor lag was effected. Not any proper comprehensive ones that I've seen around. Fast acting pressure and temp senders before and after IC. Ambient temp, wheel speed senders and TPS logged by a decent logging box would be a damm good start. But who's going to find the time and effort to do that....? [Jaded Warning] LoL rem magazines and shiny alloy are the prime decider's for most ppls mods, not fact and data.
  12. Maybe contact ARC for a AU representative.
  13. ^^ 1 wire / 3 wire; I meant to denote a narrow band lol EDIT: useless
  14. Are you talking about the OEM single wire voltage output?
  15. Dood, i spent a whole 4 min searching, and i cant find it. I wanna see the mess!!
  16. 2bar boost and another 044
  17. This also helps prevent the "shuffleing" some people get, when the slightly pressurised air dicks around with the AFM hot wire.
  18. Like a hawk lol
  19. Which one of you punks voted "No, There are enough traders for that product already" ????? How could there ever be a Con to having a trader supply gear, that (AFIK) other traders don't? EDIT: Trident, why the need for SS fittings?
  20. Got a bit of a kink there Hamish!
  21. My experiences differ. A good mate fried a water cooled T66 flowing about 450hp; he'd not been running water through it. Remember, ball bearing units like the Z have restrictors that limit the oil flow... so oil alone wont be enough to cool the cartridge (unlike journal bearing units) I would think the water jacket around the core... thats supposed to have a cool medium flowing through it?... would act as an insulator and trap heat in if not connected. Although not 100% definitive evidence as such, the little lab monkey sitting on my shoulder wearing a lab coat, holding some verniers and a calculator screams to run the turbo in which the way it was designed to... specially when its of little expense or effort to do so.
  22. lol FYI: This post talks of the "trigger" for the CC.
  23. Bah, don't give up so easy!! Ok, lemme rummage around... . . . ...Ok, this is taken from the R33 Service Manual @ PaulR33's site. As I mentioned, you'll have a line from the tank (where the fumes are coming from) A line from the plenum somewhere (where the fumes get INGESTED into the engine) and the trigger line thats located right at the edge of the throttle blade. Ill take a guess, and say its the purge line that you've found to be leaking. Assuming its dedicated to the job (ie, not "Y'd" off a FPR feed or somthing wack) ... have you tried just blocking it up?... If I had a R33, I'd take photo's - GL
  24. Anna is better then I, as I'm still not sure what you even describing. When you say, your car is "heating up quickly" and that "your mates can feel a noticeable difference" do you mean the water temp, as thats sposed to get up to temp (half'ish way'ish on the gauge) quickly. Or do you mean cabin temp, with the heater on? The dash cluster w.temp is really only a slow reaction "three step" unit. Cold / Normal operating temp / Hot. You shouldn't see normal small fluctuations (to stop the average commuter from freakin out). Would help if you could describe the issue some more
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