GeeTR

Do search. RB's make a lot of injector noise. Use the afore mentioned screw driver on your ear if a) you think one is nosier then the rest and b) its only just occurred. If the noise goes away temporarily when the revs drop, after racing it, then its inj's. Harm? If one partially drops out when your WOT @ redline, sure you could destroy a motor worst case.

The two apposing attributes If you don't want to mess around, most ppl go the Trust ones. Cooler, remote, oilstat. If you don't mind plugging a leak or three, use the China ones (they all look the same)

Many things, Inj %, knock, AFM max etc. Have you got the hand controller? Was it tuned? PaulR33's FAQ Read it all.

If only it worked like that Things are priced on how much people are willing to spend, not the complexity of the device. TiAL have been making gates to a large market for a long time. If you hunt around, you can pick up a 48 unit for ~380ísh. Compare that price to local TS 45mm. To make the whole thing easier to swallow, think about the costs of a stuck plunger at full noise. Anywho, Give the manufacture of your china gate a call for a new one. Pop the hate hat off, slam er in, slap it on, don't pinch it when doing it back up.

You sure can

If you cant disarm the alarm for a battery removal, you prolly should get a key. Some clever sparkys might be able to get a similar key for you. Small amount of arcing is normal, though when the you touch the terminals, provide positive pressure with one hand, so it doesn't keep doing it.

Its the steering wheel warmer! jk

Hook a lappy and the software up to your own ECU, got for a blat and check the max inj duty

Wideband AFR time maybe.

Just chock it up and fasten with a hose clamp. You can find blanking plugs, or just use some correctly sized dowel.

Don't mean to sound like a tosser, but what do the plugs look like? Been around since T-rex, but check this. Take a pic of your plugs, post it up for comments. From my experiences, plugs in a modern car have to be obscenely dirty to cause a dodegy idle, maybe tis something else.

Chuckles, you read correct the first time but power loss is relative. I was trying to get at a stronger spark getting a little more combustion pressure out of bad (rich/lean) mixtures and rough condition (lots of boost or rpm or N02 or WI) Ppl saw CDI or other cool multi spark per cycle setups really in big camed, holley'd street V8's first, as large valved heads aren't conducive to good low rpm combustion efficiency, coupled with the afore mentioned generously jetted 4 barrels. Think of all the twin plug per cyl industrial motors, alfa's, aeroplane's etc. There must be a reason other then maintenance durability me thinks. Guess you could try tappin some plugs to .10mm and go for a drive I think the gist of the thread is that, most RB's out there should be able to run .80+ minimum, if not theres a sad ignition component somewhere.

Does/did it smell like petrol?

Clicking a blog most of the entries, it links now back to the homepage Some still work. Sorry in advance, if i missed some outage call. cheers M

You've neglected to mention desired power, drivabilty goals / turbo choice, thats where the answer is I'd say. From what i can see/hear, theres not enough room for the low mount m.fold required if response from your larger framed turbo is needed. If your needs are T3 hot side based, then you could save a lot of hassles, $ and time by using teh stocker.

Baron, the smaller clamps look like TiAL units? They look it, bar the steel screws. Wastegates are where most ppl take the time to use v-clamps; speeden up removal due to spring change or atmo -> plumb back at the track or.. um.. yah

Thats wack, so it pours out... as soon as you kill the engine?

As mentioned, theres no harm, just less power. Exposing the volatile chamber mix to the strongest lick of plasma possible, prevents chamber velocity from effecting it, as well as having the greatest chance of complete charge combustion. SplitFire allowing larger gap? Not that I've seen... They are simply cheaper then OEM coils... and blue.. so homos buy them. Serious contenders use Twinspark or proper step up amplification

You could find, that hose isn't connected to anything, but just vents behind the gear box.

Yah, 1.5" pipe under ~100kp VS a 3" intercooler pipe with ~200kp.

I would think air would be entering the setup from the vacuum side of the pump, so between the pump and reservoir. I would think it would need to be a pretty large leak though for there to be enough vacuum to pull air through a leak. Maybe check the reservoir, make sure there's something stuck in the outlet, causing abnormally high vacuum which is then pulling air through a leak. The reservoir outlet --> pump intake wasn't designed for high pressure / strong vacuum, so a blockage could be an answer. Just a thought.

^ agreed The idea's to try and use the largest gap possible, with the ignition system one is using. One might be able to run 1.1 now.. .then need to gap to .8 in another +100rwkw time, then back to 1.1 with some CDI / some ignition amp.

Yar, make sure the discrepancy you see, isn't just belt slack.

It does, but i find a spanner chews out the nipple pretty quick.. and when ever I'm bleeding brakes... locating a new nipple is the last thing i wanna do hah.

So your on P's? I read the above 'post' 4 times, and I'm still not sure what the intent or point was... I think you need to calm down, read more post's, then creating them.