GeeTR

Good son of rajab did this thread spiral downwards.. what have i done

WB Shootout Test Paid for by Innovative maybe, but Bosch's spec sheet shows the LSU to move around with age... so having a unit that you can free air calibrate seems to make sense to me (unlike the PLX) Although some people have had issues with the LC1 (RF noise, heat sensitive etc) they still seem like best option to me. Ordering mine next week to push into Datalogit. XD16 and AuxBox should come in handy too. My thinking is, many of the units out there are good, and are a god send when they work... not so when they dont - so support was a big + for me.

Hell I'm in too, close it all - Just need a angry mob and pitchforks

keep going... does it play up when your sitting between 4-5, or when sweeping through it? What about if your on the decel and sweep backwards through that range?

Prolly start at listing your mods, if anything coincides with the occurrence... umm etc?

lol - leave him alone Adriano

Old schooool Specific heat values... Air ~ 1 kJ/( kg * deg K) Water 4.18 kJ/( kg * deg K) ...and with a latent heat value of 2256 kJ/kg, the evaporation process removes a fair deal of heat. As to if you'll feel it? Well its like most things. If the ambient air is dry, your moving quickly and the IC is already fairly saturated (like dan said) then sure, it'l make some noticeable difference. PS: Licking my hand got me hot.. not cool

mines rkaid, add me up you perverts Was 44th inda world GT5 demo, mod'd BNR32... but i started gettn RSI in my throttle finger.. no joke.. i need a s.wheel

^^^ You seem to run into a lot of Camry drivers on the track!

Its sounding at the front of the pipe... cus thats where the fuel is combusting.. compared to say.. the cylinders lambda got destroyed? ohh noooe's

Well in reality, if you spend some coin on your ride, its good to know if your getting the same results as others at least. Helps with problem shooting, as unless one knows what 200rwkw 1.5t car feels like, you'd never know otherwise

I figured the dood wanted a low mount setup

^^ + billion

Laser!!?? do go on!!! Love vice grips, but a stillson has been reported to once have ripped the soul from James Brown. Spark plug wtf?

Congrats, good to see you got your issues sorted!

Some good reading I had on me. Apologies, cant remember where i stole it from, so don't sue Spark Timing Myths Debunked A widely-held myth is that maximum advance always means maximum power. Here’s what’s wrong with this thinking: The spark plug ignites the mixture and the fire starts burning. The speed of this flame front depends on the mixture, this means how many air and fuel molecules are packed together in the combustion chamber. The closer they are packed together in the same volume, the easier it is for the fire to jump from one set of molecules to the other. The burning speed is also dependent on the air-fuel-ratio. At about 12.5 to 13 air-fuel-ratio the mixture burns fastest. A leaner mixture than that burns slower. A richer mixture also burns slower. That's why the maximum power mixture is at the fastest burn speed. It takes some time for this flame front to consume all the fuel in the combustion chamber. As it burns, the pressure and temperature in the cylinder increases. This pressure peaks at some point after TDC. Many experiments have shown that the optimum position for this pressure peak is about 15 to 20 degrees after TDC. The exact location of the optimum pressure peak is actually independent of engine load or RPM, but dependent on engine geometry. Typically all the mixture is burned before about 70 deg ATDC. But because the mixture density and AFR in the engine change all the time, the fire has to be ignited just at the right time to get the peak pressure at the optimal point. As the engine speed increases, you need to ignite the mixture in the combustion chamber earlier because there is less time between spark and optimum peak pressure angle. If the mixture density is changed due to for example boost or higher compression ratio, the spark has to be ignited later to hit the same optimal point. If the mixture is ignited to early, the piston is still moving up towards TDC as the pressure from the burning mixture builds. This has several effects: * The pressure buildup before TDC tries to turn the engine backward, costing power. * The point where the pressure in the cylinder peaks is much closer to TDC, with the result of less mechanical leverage on the crankshaft (less power) and also causes MUCH higher pressure peaks and temperatures, leading to knock. Many people with aftermarket turbos don't change the spark advance very much, believing that earlier spark creates more power. To combat knock they make the mixture richer. All that happens really then is that the mixture burns slower and therefore hits the peak pressure closer to the right point. This of course reaffirms the belief that the richer mixture creates more power. In reality the flame front speed was adjusted to get the right peak pressure point. The same result (with more power, less emissions and less fuel consumption) could be achieved by leaving the mixture at the leaner optimum and retarding the ignition more instead. Turbo charging or increasing the compression ratio changes the mixture density (more air and fuel molecules are packed together). This increases the peak pressure and temperature. The pressure and temperature can get so high that the remaining unburned mixture ignites by itself at the hottest part in the combustion chamber. This self-ignition happens explosively and is called 'knock'. All engines knock somewhat. If there is very little unburned mixture remaining when it self-ignites, the explosion of that small amount does not cause any problems because it can't create a large, sharp pressure peak. Igniting the mixture later (retarding) causes the peak pressure to be much lower and cures the knock. The advances in power of modern engines, despite the lower quality of gasoline today, comes partially from improvements in combustion chamber and spark plug location. Modern engines are optimized so that the flame front has the least distance to travel and consumes the mixture as fast as possible. An already burned mixture can no longer explode and therefore higher compression ratios are possible with lower octane fuel. Some race or high performance engines actually have 2 or three spark plugs to ignite the mixture from multiple points. This is done so that the actual burn time is faster with multiple flame fronts. Again, this is to consume the mixture faster without giving it a chance to self-ignite. Higher octane fuel is more resistant to self-ignition. It takes a higher temperature and pressure to cause it to burn by itself. That's why race fuels are used for engines with high compression or boost. Lead additives have been used, and are still used to raise the self-ignition threshhold of gasoline, but lead is toxic and therefore no longer used for pump-gas. Of course a blown engine is toxic to your wallet.

Yah, g.point, I assumed you woulda caned it up a hill once or thrice, making your setup feel max load before. Ummm, I think you getting confused lol. AFM measures air into into the motor and spits out a 0-5v signal (which a fast acting MM could read) Im not OG with RB20 cuts so cant help you there. Fuel pressure will need to be measured with a mech gauge, T'd into your rail feed, b4 FPR obviously. Run the line dodgy styles out the grill, through the window as a temp setup. Your shotgun will have to keep a keen eye on it. Of course a lecky gauge with a f.pressure sender, recorded by a logging instrument (Innovative, Datalogit etc) would be best. Your correct; many manufactures use the same sender for both fuel and pressure (like Defi) Start with the easy stuff first, 1) Find out when RB20's with your mods ECU cut 2) Fill car up, find a quiet, sticky corner, or private road. Let car run down to the fuel level it had before... and try again. Should pretty apparent I would think. GL

Good Q! Fuel surge, or a ECU initiated cut... If your car never cut before (too much AFM voltage output) while loaded on the street (3rd gear, up hills = boost = AFM output) Then i doubt it would see that same load, wheel spinning in 2nd out a apex. I reckon it be fuel surge. Cant you run the car to the same fuel level and generate some lateral G forces to test?

The key word you needed to use was "base pressure + FPR " http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=3639776 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=3101205 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=3744585 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=3712488 hope this helps

This?.... BD4's is a eastern distrib'r of HKS gear, but im sure if you look around u can find it else where, or cheaper. Don't run atmo.

Local merchants of poverty IMO So much mark up, $1,100 for thier 50mm? Thats %10 less then the HKS GTII TiAL is US$600'ish for thier 50mm. Just saying humbug to Turbosmart, EDITED: True, but TiAL is more proven'ed

As with f.pumps, inj's, ECU's etc, I would personally only use something proven. Theres a reason the known brands are 300%-600% more exspensive. Just my boo boo view

Swap 1st cyl coil with another, see if fault moves. If so, its the 1st cyl coil. If it doesn't, put coil on plug and rest on head, see if spark jumps - if so the harness and coil is good (within reason) You could pull the 1st coil plug, and crank motor briefly- if plug is wet, inj is working. Ha, at that stage of fuel good, coil and harness good.. well then just burn it, and start again You persist cus its a GTR

Buggor - this is all Skyline 101 Many a detailed thread. People remove the rear stator, but most people just re-route the lines. Check the pictures people have posted, compare that with what you see when you get under the car and its dead easy. Cut some steal pipe, fit 30cm worth of hose, few hose clamps - wo la!