GeeTR

Damm Silman... is that a relay box mounted near your AFM??? Where am i, is this real? Niiice

Hey Bruv, polishing ISNT much fun at all. I spent 30'ish hours i think (2yrs ago) on a 26 plenum. I wasn't looking for a mirror finish, but the frosted look that smooth alloy gets, when it starts to naturally oxidize. So figured I'd get it mirrror.. then let it rust. Shiney is Ok i guess, but have a look at matt black finishes. Personally, thats what im into now... just cant bring myself (and don't care anuff) to coat what I have now. My cents..

Monkeys correct in solution, by the bulge in the blue hose, i can see its not too oversized... id still chuck a zip on it for peace of mind

--> = Ouch... Paul did technically answere the Q it seemed like u were asking

Congrats, your a tool EDIT: Incriminating 'hooligan' link modified... Thx

link no worky

Decked >> http://www.geekabout.com/2008-03-17-503/9-...than-yours.html

LoL at naughty list

Your gun toting SA hommies should be able to lend you one http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/So...tralia-f25.html

Thats interesting Dunc, i thought all PS pumps eventually failed if their rear stage is simply plugged up.

Now i think about it, mines sat in the passenger footwell for weeks while tuning / testing issues.

Id check the device that dictates boost; your Greddy EBC. Maybe DC it, and run off the actuator (.5bar?) as a test.

Iv never heard of a V6... but the Haltech's I've seen just need to be hooked up to a serial port on your laptop. If its a HARD cut, then it could be the Haltech freakin out, due to a faulty sensor etc. This will be pretty obvious if you hook a PC up to it with Haltuner installed and in Online mode. GL

Draw thru webber ftw

New'ish R34 coils are should be fine for your 300rwkw plans. Get the bugger to pay you back in cash

The Yank is calling it a 35/82, (exducer) and the Ozi is calling it a 35/40 (inducer) How backwards hahahaha

^^ "hell yes, my cousin got a GTR and picked up so many hot babes ya know, so I thought it would help me. I got hot babes all the time now. The 4WD stops sick line lockers, but pulled my front driveshafts... all good now" ...

Straight from the Turbosmart site....

With the current hike in auto mech labor rates... he's implying it'l be off and on in less then 3 hours? Unless hes a Ice addict, he WILL regret it haha. ... or i could be just a slow arse home mechanic hahahah

Go to metalcat... ask for thier Ozzi reseller...

^^ Its a fine line dude. I would think, theres almost everything required on this forum to achieve what you want... the delta between taking it to a shop and getting raped, is TIME... Squishy organic human units hate spending time on something, when they could possibly get away with taking a shortcut. It takes time and lots of $$ to get a great result sometimes, hence why ppl are short or "rude" to those that are inherently lazy. Anyway, I think all this PC talk is ruining this FAQ thread... course i expect it all to me moderated.. so party on

Lol at forgies

Not sure on exacts, but iv watched it done b4 - Its mostly labour costs. Done with a TIG to minimize localized heating. I've seen both 'dots' every 1" along seams, as well as welding 1" 'seams', then 2" gap, 1" seams, 2" gap and so on. I figure I'd give it a go myself, apart from making sure car is on dead level surface (to prevent chassis preload haha) and letting the work cool every now and then, I cant imagine there’s much involved. In my case, I need to talk to my engineer about cages, to see if I can tie the strut towers properly to the A frame and firewall (re-route brake lines etc) ne way

Yes, 3" will be better. Assuming your pushing some boost through that T04E