GeeTR

40mm - omg The doors on my R32 are harder to shut when the front or rear is jacked up as well. I'm not willing to agree, that Skylines have rigid bodys.. at all Those "chassis rails" as djr said aren't really rails. Its a legacy term used in the modern automotive industry. They're ultra thin gauge and NEVER would I rest them on a chassis stand... although I cant count how many ppl i see do. Made me a little sad when i felt the door not close properaly, but figure it'll be solved when my cage goes in. Also, Ive seen that many if not most of the 9s BNR32's in Japan stitch weld the front strut towers, in and around the firewall as well. Supposedly 100's of 4WD 9krpm dumps can weaken that area. When my motors out, I know ill have it braced.

Hey man, VERY nice gate, had a deposit on one a few months ago. Pictures tell a 1000 but. I'm assuming you received it with the top hat already off, otherwise you would have mentioned the TWANG when it flew off - lol. As the springs in there have an amount of preload, you can use a vice with soft jaws to clamp the hat on, then just bolt it all up; following normal "criss cross" patterns and multiple stages of tourqing. Be careful not to pinch the diaphragm. I'm sure someone more knowledgeable with HKS gates can help. Hope this helps

Most of the turbo'd Nissan's iv been in have at least a tiny bit of popping and carrying on, on decel. Id do all the normal shite, like clean AFM, check TPS voltage at idle etc.

Meh, I bought one for the fancy R badge

F U C K I T Paul... make me these fools search.. don't give in... lol

The small voltages that are going on there (+5 volts) wont damage the loom wire. A small arc when you were testing "could have though, damaged the AFM. - I guess you could run 4 new test wires from ECU to AFM (just out the side of the bonnet, through the window) to test the loom. - Borrow an AFM to test the AFM

Even if it didn't, cant you just run a wire from the chassis to the ECU chassis?

Too Good - - Tripple Pendulum hit, making me biased lol

me too. I been beltn out laps in the demo. Argh, have to beat a 1.08 a mate did, still 1.7s off.

*cough* Are you sure though.. that applying that pressure, isn't just loading a leaking paper gasket? That link is awesome, man where were THOSE things 2 years ago???

"sketchy thread" *keeps on walking*

LoL, thats a damm good idea. Use a $20 PICAXE, or similar bootstrapped IC and make one. I fear though, that by time you figure out the signal curve required... would have been easier spending 100 on Tomei and selling the shims.

Sweet, nice work. So is the AC comp seized? hard to rotate?

They're used world wide, in 100's of different automotive disciplines; as per bnr#@, they are fine The amount in the sump wont effect the pressure in teh slightest. The sumps mostly a reservoir for feeding the pick up.

Sounds like fuel pressure to me. ~42lbs base, (engine not running / no vacuum in the plenum) so u should have much less at idle. Try and get a gauge on it for the dyno session; even feed the voltage from a o.pres sender into the dyno, so its plotted along with the rest. Are you sure your ignition system isn't weak (for all the usual reasons) and your mis-firing? A mates S14 was breaking down at peak tourqe (~3600 rpm) which caused mis-fires, and pinging. The lean spikes on the readout are from unburnt fuel past the 5 wire. SplitFires fixed that issue.

Of course, I don't let ne1 touch my pride 'n' joy The last one from memory isn't too bad, its the one in the middle, on the underside thats the kicker. With a good assortment of extensions, articulated joints and the obligatory foul language, you'll get there. That single bolt took 4 hours once *thinks* maybe borrowing the hands of a mates young child could speedin it up. Throw in a case of... um flavored milk?

No stress Ash, cheers bud!

Not sure bout a 34, but 32 and 33 have the map sensor on the drivers side upper firewall, I'd start there.

Johno, as his picture, I assume he's talking bout multi head coolant reliefs/feeds, not just a normal breather tank setup. Well, thats how i took it lol

EDIT: I thought i knew... now after talking to some ppl, Im not so sure My understanding, is setups like below are a multiple point head coolant relief, but looking around, looks like some ppl FEED cold coolant at those points... not relieve it? Have a look at CRD site for some more pictures like this....

Ouch Sounds like you killed it. If it starts fine with no AFM (prolly in limp mode though) and not at all with it connected, you most likely have killed the AFM Multimeter on the signal and ground wires should give you a reading (don't quote me on that lol) that reading is whats confusing the ECU, causing it to not start. Maybe its outputting 5v, and the ECU doesn't like it. Maybe checking for error codes and testing with known good AFM gets my tick too.

Yup, thats what I'd try. Interesting Stagea's use a check valve on the outside of the tank. Theres def nothing like that in a BNR32; between the tank in/out connections <--> under body steel fuel line. You should be priming the car with ACC on, before hitting the START position too. Just let it whine away until it stops, then START.

Few days ago someone confirmed the AIT has the same output curve as the coolant sender. EDIT: Heres the thread....

Yup, if you pull it out yourself, you'll get really good at removing the plenum Hopefully, THIS isnt your issue lol.

Great post even greater if you could find that link!