GeeTR

Hey Ash, Yah, I do rem reading about that somwhere. Is there an easy link regarding it somwhere? (just outa interest) Was the unit still putting out a rising voltage at that power level, or had it maxed, and you tuner was tuning around it?

100's on here have removed their's, non have affected ATESSA that I’ve read about. Some have heavy steering. - SydneyKid says that a small change of castor (?) offsets the heavier steering. - Someone on here modified the PS rack solenoid with a solid flange, to make it permanently light. - The Tomei kit has a box you splice in, (along with the locking shims) that stops the dash HICAS light from turning on, plus giving factory like PS assist control. I slapped a lock bar on, removed everything but have yet to drive it. I want to keep proper PS assist on my modern (modern'ish lol) import, so I figure I'll just splice the Tomei black box in if its an issue ($100) My cents

OEM, I think its built into the pump. There is a "thingy" inside the tank, on the OUT line, but its a pressure dampener I believe. You would have seen it when you slapped the SARD unit in.

If its doing it only when your AC is on, i would think its AC related. Check the belt for the compressor isn't frayed or worn. If the compressor is on the way out, it will put unnecessary drag on the motor; the idle valve isn't enough to stop the motor from dieing?

Taken from PaulR33's site Rule of thumb for Air Flow meters RWKW & Engine BHP ------ ---- OD ---- RWKW ---- RWKW ---- BHP ------ BHP No of AFM's ---- ------- 1 -------- 2 -------- 1 -------- 2 RB26 ------ 65 ------ 149 ------ 299 ------ 271 ------ 474 RB20/25 --- 80 ------ 226 ------ 453 ------ 376 ------ 683 Z32 ------- 80 ------ 255 ------ 511 ------ 415 ------ 763 Q45 ------- 90 ------ 302 ------ 605 ------ 479 ------ 890

I felt some of your pain.. we went to over (no shit) 14 places in East Sydney on the WE... non was open. Even the Muslim place on Anzac, Maroubra.. was dead closed? eh? hrrrmmmm.

*Shlock shlock Shlock*

Cant complain for $3 and 10min's haha!

GeeTR is right about everything he says... LoL Your talking about heat sink compound and igniters or transistor unit; a solid state, high amperage switching device. As such, it produces an amount of heat, and will complain if it cant get rid of it. Instead of OEM sinking it to cam valley cover (which IS metal but ISN'T cool) to help with heat, people suspend them on longer threaded bolts, or bolt to the firewall to move stop heat going the other way, from cam cover -> igniter. We are talking about the coilpacks, which aren't as sensitive to heat, but to a – GROUND. Having that good ground is paramount for a decent electrical field creation and collapse. Even new leads will get dirty, as I'm not talking about a few mm of untreated lead post, but .001 of a mm. To clarify… To prevent corrosion people use almost any petroleum based grease on the terminals, much like filing the surface of galvanized steel before welding, and then spray with rust inhibitor (or just grey paint) after you've welded it… to stop that surface oxidization. There's enough contact from post to lead clamp that conductivity isn't effected too much. +1 on the above, is actually being able to find some of the grease that's specifically electrically conductive (in addition to it being a simple barrier to atmospheric oxygen)

Pictures of the issue would help.., There must be way to fix. Iv got a home automotive book from the 50's somewhere, you couldn't believe some of the shite in there hahah

Hey man, From what i read on here, looking at Shaun's gorgeous white R32 with a 26 in it and others, RB25 will make the power you need. When you need more power then one can make, your getting to the point where you cant put it down properally. Try and grab Shaun's ear for a chat bout it

Whats with R31's, guy at work here as a mate who's one got stolen. Rapped it and damaged the motor... least he got it back though.

No, you shouldn't buy one, they're much too old. If your asking the question, then your prolly not keen on maintaining a 18yo Jap import. Get a second hand WRX

LoL

+11ity

I would have thought they meant a zhaust leak before the turbo, not after it

^^ turbos or blow by ingestion prolly. Tad off topic, maybe Paulr33 can help. I'm looking for a faster acting AIT temp sender. Paul mentioned in his site, that the Rx7Club found one from a SA company?... but i couldn't seem to find it.. ne way Good work Sean too

Hell yes, G35 1.06 on RB20 FTW! Good to see people getting 'lickn your elbow" looney Video, sound, pics somthing plz! GL

Budget & Power is what will set your parts requirement from others. Pick a figure, look what other people have done. If you don't know how much power you want / need, I hear the WA chaps are friendly Get along to an event and ask for a ride in something. Without the above, your just another guy wanting ppl to choose parts for him... how long is that string?

Be sure to give it a good wiggle while the motor is running, as its more then likely an intermittent connection.

Any exhaust restriction after your turbo turbine is considered bad for power... so really you should have gained some power from your leak LOL. In reality, if the leak was big enough, i guess it could cause adverse turbulence at the leak, having a follow-on effect on total flow.

Oh dear. For starters R&R has nothing to do with cold start. If the issue occurred after you got your car back from a professional mechanic... take it back, and make him FIX the issue that he caused. Did you happen to purchase the BOV through him?

Got Naawse!

That sux, making me soo sad. So LB, where do you hold the sign? I'm trying to think if a driver could see a sign, held on that further line? hrmmm

Need pictures bud. If it is PS fluid, it'd be clearly for the HICAS. As its all crazy 800psi stuff, it'd be all double flared like your brake lines; not too easy to leak. You could have had a gutter or something scrape and rupture the line, which is a real shame as Nissan charge a LOT for those lines. Your in luck friend! By simply clicking on the link in my signature you check the thread to my HICAS gear Shameless i know, but a brutha has to survive LoL EDIT: Degrease all the gear back there, and stick some butchers paper under it, so you can see the drops.