GeeTR

They's a lot more then 1K though And if 240'ish ends up being enough, then he saves $$$. Not evry feels the need to slap a 500hp HKS unit on Race *cough* lol

EDITED: Play nice What kind of responses did you think you'd get to a thread about turbo whistle noise? With the current influx of new Skyline owners, and associated BOV, idle, Ex gate, "best mod for me" threads, you cant expect the average jaded SAU member to answere responsibally. Im just explaining how i see.

380? son of rajab. Surely you know some slack jawed Ozi that can pick one up and post it to you?.. as a "present"

Kick em in the shins hard, then again when hes on the ground for selling you such blasphemy What?? Its a BOV thread, im allowed.

Hey There, In the last 14h, SAU goes through stints of being unreachable for 5-10m at a time. Just thought Id let some ppls know Cheeross M

I thought so too... untill i found the pooping thread lol

How odd, that happened to me too. Mr Freud would say the word 'raid' is associated with the work 'airborn'... or somthang

Think about how far you want to take power now, so you don't muck about with gear you'll loose money on, selling later. If your not looking to change turbo, then don't bother with a front mount that will increase throttle delay. The R34 GTT units replace the side mount one and flow to about 220-250rwkw which is already a good 20-30 over what your stock turbo will do at safe pressures. I reckon its not worth a munched engine, due to failed stock turbo. A GCG style highflow, signal bender, maybe a adj FPR to sneak base pressure up a bit should see you 220-240 You generally cant change injectors with a bender though, so once you need more then the stockys can provide, it's AM ECU time. Spend an hour going through http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...html&st=360 and see if you can get a ride in someone's 240rwkw setup. If you want more, then start planning for a much larger turbo, ECU, fuel upgrades, clutch blah blah.

choku_dori, hahaha

No worrys man Well Im not really saying what its doing, as Im still not sure how your fab guy has made the pipe, some pictures would help. Airs not getting sucked into cam cover breathers, as with the engine running, there’s still going to be some blow by. Dont mean to palm you off, but its insanely simply concept, thats better shown with pictures. Check this link... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ca...68174.html& and all doubts should be alleviated. Hell, the issue, this thread was started for might not even be this

[email protected]? fark You should def be able to hear 150, without a doubt. The ole "pebbles in a tin can" is still the best description i reckon. What are your mods, what have you changed? Does anything coincide with this issue?

Hey dood, Nature always tries to equalize, from one extreme to another, be it heat or particulates suspended in liquid. So osmosis, or equalization of a concentration through a semi permeable membrane... (tea through a tea bag into hot water, or water through your kidneys, 02 and C02 through aveoli in your lungs) or hot air from one room to another etc. When the cylinder charge burns, some gas leaks past the piston rings into the crankcase, that's called blow by. Clearly engines work cus the pressure in the cylinder is higher above the piston then below is, so the piston moves down. Having pressure from blow by below the piston, in the crankcase then lowers the pressure differential, decreasing performance and causing issues with blowing out seals, dip stick etc etc. The factory setup has a pipe from the cam cover to the intake pipe, then when under boost ingests the blow by, creates a little vacuum under the piston, increasing performance slightly. On the over run, or when you back off the accelerator and the revs are dropping, a small one way valve opens and suck the blow by from the crank case as well. The one way is there, so when on boost, pressurized air doesn't go back into the crank case. People remove the cam cover to intake pipe connection, as older cars have more blow by, and ingesting and burning these "already burnt oily gases" lowers the quality of the in cylinder combustion. This why you see ppl use filters on the cam covers (V8's) and just bleed that blow by to the atmosphere. This is illegal though, as the blow by is technically combustion gases that haven't gone through the cat. Aftermarket, people use a container (oil/air separator) full of stainless steel wool, and route the gases through that, and then have a filter on the oil/air separator (which technically isn't legal either) Keep in mind that in the stock setup, when on the over run, the PCV valve opens and wants to ingest air from the crankcase AND from the stock pipe to the intake pipe. Seeing as there's already vacuum in front of the turbo, and the pipe is "behind" the AFM, the PCV is ingesting air that's ALREADY BEEN METERED by the AFM… so AFR's stay the same, the ECU doesn't get confused. The issue is when people leave pipes open, or what not and the PCV pulls air from effectively a "leak" Hope this makes sense. Search SAU, been covered many times, with lots of pictures and theory how people setup after market setups. Once you know what's going on, make sure your setup, is setup correctly otherwise you'll be stalling etc. Rough outline, hope it helps Michael

Normal

LoL, some wee came out Get some stainless sheet, and make some new lock tabs - easy. Your right i reckon, its prolly the spacer and wot not, increasing thermal expansion abnormally. In cahoots with marshmallows, s.steel sheet is the jazzle frazzle.

Hahah, it was i guess Iv a v.close mate who has a intake pipe made up for a S14. Aftermarket BOV, but still recirc... the new pipes location for the BOV recirc gave him skethyness on gear shifts. Sure have, some retard called GeeTR mentioned somthing about that... Like i said, learn how your PCV system works, and then trace your setup, make sure your not pressurizing your crankcase, or missing a one way valve in the PCV setup. Blocking cam breathers farks your motor, leaving em free farks EPA. Stock ingests through plenum one way on the over run, and ingests at turbo intake under boost. If you dont like searching, i can spend the time to explain how it works

Come on Mafia, its not even 10am... You know, i heard the mafia was created when the little children in Greece that mined the caves for sulphur (black powder) where robbed! 10yo robbed of thier precious yellow sulphur! anyway, back to the "omg ma shits f_ckd" thread. My $50 I-net dooolers is on PCV

Not every1 wants a 86x86 stroker diesel in their Jap import mawhah

*cough*

lol at his f'n thread, so much unadulterated tripe amongst the rare educated comment (not directed at you, honey dood)

Change gears quicker spaz jk Buh serious, format your question correctly if you'd like a useful response. List your mods, how long its been doing it etc...

Flashy rice! i lOve Rice Nice one, I almost just bought one visiting the site

It'd had to be a pretty serious leak i would think. Clean the stains around your leaking inj and see how long it takes to reappear. To see what its like on boost (base fuel pressure + boost) you could feed the FPR 1bar from a air compressor with regulator set... to 1bar

Go deep, its under the plenum. If i rem, ill chuck up a pic from my pull down collection. EDIT: Cheated and found a suitable picture from Derens Outa Control BNR32 Restoration thread (sorry for large picture) Below, it goes where theres an open flange, at the front of the collector thing'a ma'bang jizzle, just above the yellow plug. I think CLICK FOR PICTURE

2003 - nice

Good idea