GeeTR

Shameless

AAIDS hehe - baad

I woulda said atmo bov too, but you say it was working fine before the new intake pipe was made up. So second i ask, the strange noise isn't from your PCV system is it?... i assume thats the "oil line" you speak of? Is the motor sucking air through the PCV valve "leak"? If your unsure how the OEM blow-by recirc is setup, or how to setup a oil / air separator, hit the search.

If your unlucky to get done by an Inspection team on the side of the road, they'll do you rough & dry though.

Holy sheet this is an old thread, to think your still updating it!! fantastic effort!!!

The most sensible option Sound like a broken record i know, but by the time you "customise" your China solution, you might as well piece together something yourself. Earls billet block and head adaptor, race fittings and any core your heart desires and some time, and you have a solution that completely fulfils your needs and uses world industry standard fittings. Hearing others that are using China setups and are "ok" so far, is like that simpsons ep where Homer wears a bear repelling hat... that works cus "hell, i dont see any bears, do you?" Custom or brand name Jap setup is really the only thing you should be considering if your serious about your pride and joy. My cents.

Does HICAS and ATTESA still work fine? If the PFC and AVCR read correct values, you'd think its the SBC that’s the issue. Something to keep in mind, is there’s obviously a hall effect sensor on each wheel, and somehow all 4 get amalgamated into one signal that your tapping into. Sorry cant help more, just thinking aloud.

Not even if it was the 4" I need

Not sure on outlet diameter, but as its pressure side, recommend a high quality hose, not a single ply ebay jobby. SFS and Thermal flex get my vote.

Depending on what type of fittings they use, I "might" use on my car, and keep a close eye for leaks, and be more careful then normal making sure theres no load on the lines, fittings... But i would never recommend someone else fits one for fear of a lost engine on my conscious I guess, not much could go wrong with block adapter and filter head though...

+2 Proud owner, very quiet (too quiet for me) ... but too small now. Will be selling soon

U could use the sender with a variable resistance/voltage switch from Jaycar or something, but a simple oil pressure on off switch like R34GTFOUR's saying, would be more reliable, less parts and cheaper.

Hobbs switch set to close circuit at 10psi or less. Slap some resistors onto a clear, super bright red 10mm LED. Booya - easy.

Maybe the man just knows he needs 300rwkw!

Lol nice, if i was into sticking ppls quotes in the signature, id add that one.

Water injection? Variable cam setup?

Cheers Trent, as a 26 single owner, ill be keeping an eye on your Nazi built single setup. Makes the monkey on my shoulder sigh with some relief, knowing the K's Kats motor has done... hard K's too I would imagine Scuze my ignorance, but what numbers was the setup doing with the Trust 517 (?) twins before?

GeeTR says that if you want good response, you'll need a smallest turbo you can fit, that makes the power you want, then put yourself at the pointy end of the compressor map... which means 1.5bar + Spend 5h on SAU looking around, talk to your preferred tuner if your not keen on planning it yourself, then rebuild your motor. 300rwkw at high boost pressures, means your using a turbo thats small and sharp; a butt load of fun on the street. Congrats on purchase, you must be stoked

Ahh thats right. A mate owned an older KE24 240 while in the US. Outa interest, who coined the terms Chuki and Zenki?

ooooh, you mean a Onevia!!

Sweet, good times - bung sender

A aftermarket gauge would be best, but you don't wanna hear that. If you know the C0 values, could use a multimeter on the temp sender terminal. If you don't, get ghetto on the stove top with thermometer and multimeter to find out. R34GTFOUR is correct, its still most likely the thermostat, or the housing it sits in... even though you mention you replaced it with a NEW one.

Confusions My point was that a Walbro, pushing against no restriction (or think of it, as having its output sucked from it by the 044) should keep up with a 044. An 044 (roughly 040 sized i thought) into a S13 tank while not technically hard, isnt a simple affair I'v found; which is why people supplement the setup with a external 044, simply using the smaller Walbro to force feed it (and give it that head of pressure your talking about)

Not bad, nice work! Scuze for stupid question, but is the RPM scale accurate? Stopped rev'ing before 8, is that done for preservation??

Odd. I doubt the 3.5 zhaust will limit flow at 250 powers. The only time iv seen something like this, is from fast ramping cam lobes and lazy springs.