GeeTR

Never heard bout an issue with Defi's. They're pretty cheap now.

1 - Oil pressure 2 - Fuel pressure 3 - Oil temp Eng 4 - Oil temp Tran (is your car pushed hard?) Water temp not really needed, as long as stocky works well (output on ECU ne way) I would forget the AFR gauge completely unless your getting a proper wide band. If your going to have a go tuning it, you could get it last.. though i would rather know o.pres, f.press & o.temp before playing around with WOT tuning.

Not worth potential stress or hassles imo, unless you fit some mesh the outlet to catch the comp wheels pieces.

Seeing sales like this, makes me cringe when i think how much i spent gettin mine in from Jpn. Good luck dood.

This is in the for sale section. I feel a lil guilty but notice other people double post in their local section too http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Nismo-Afm-X2-Rb26dett-t205717.html Item: NISMO AFM x 2 (22680-RR580) Age: N/A Condition: Baught new, done 400km's Price: $650 To Fit: Any RB26DETT Location: Canberra, can send anywhere Contact: bongo_r [at] hotmail.com or PM my account Comments: Are your AFM's playing up? Dont want to solder on new plugs and mess around with new pod adapters, heaven forbid try and get Z32's to hook up to the stock airbox? Don't want to risk buying second hand items that have been dropped, or sprayed with WD40 in an attempt to clean them? These have the resolution scope and size to meter 775HP worth of air. They are simply bolt on NOTHING ELSE REQUIRED Baught these a few years ago. Fitted them, but then took car off the road a 100km later. I don't require AFM's anymore. Still in box. They are AU$668.00 from Greenline, Nengun etc for two atm. My price takes into account they're essentially brand new. You would save the freight from japan, plus tax and could have them at your door in 4 days. (I waited 2 months from Japan) Please request if you would like pictures showing condition etc. EDIT: Ill even throw in some 60mm adaptors, if its pods that get you wet. Sold Pending Payment Like hot cakes, damm :0

Id need a serious coke debt to sell for less then 1/2 advertised price, 30min's after posting

Item: NISMO AFM x 2 (22680-RR580) Age: N/A Condition: Baught new, done 400km's Price: $650 To Fit: Any RB26DETT Location: Canberra, can send anywhere Contact: bongo_r [at] hotmail.com or PM my account Comments: Are your AFM's playing up? Dont want to solder on new plugs and mess around with new pod adapters, heaven forbid try and get Z32's to hook up to the stock airbox? Don't want to risk buying second hand items that have been dropped, or sprayed with WD40 in an attempt to clean them? These have the resolution scope and size to meter 775HP worth of air. They are simply bolt on NOTHING ELSE REQUIRED Baught these a few years ago. Fitted them, but then took car off the road a 100km later. I don't require AFM's anymore. Still in box. They are AU$668.00 from Greenline, Nengun etc for two atm. My price takes into account they're essentially brand new. You would save the freight from japan, plus tax and could have them at your door in 4 days. (I waited 2 months from Japan) Please request if you would like pictures showing condition etc. EDIT: Ill even throw in some 60mm adaptors, if its pods that get you wet.

Make sure you get a vid of that

Yah, even with a dead fuse, wouldnt the relay still click shut? (assuming the s.wheel switch trigger is good to go) Replacing fuse and hitting the button causes the power to to the chassis throguh a short circuit, killing the fuse? I would think a quick test would be to test the power pin at the relay end with the multimeter set to continuity, or resistence. If touching the pin and the chassis proves a result..then uv got a S/C Im just thinking out aloud here, could be wrong

Cant help with a R33, but if you remove the resonance chamber from a BNR32, and cut a hole where the IC feed pipe goes down, you've got ample direct air flow. Make sure you spank that search button, so your aware of various issues ppl have when they direct large amounts of air to the filters. AFM fluctuations, very short air filter life etc etc.

Enclosures are one of those special little things that shows individualism. So many people, trying so many ways. In the prev threads there are some good starters with pictures etc. Use card, or thin particle board to mock up the shapes, then cut from plastic, ally etc. Look at some of the ready made ones, UAS, ARC etc and come up with your own creative design

Yah, its unbelievable. I hadn't even known a clutch have a booster - Haa

^^ ooh, im with you now. I would pull plug from horn, and see if the fuse blows. If not, then horn must be the issue. If it does, the wire from the relay to the horn is shorting. Check my response in your other thread, and try and locate the short circuit. Good luck

Horn relays? I'm getting de ja vu Im no auto-elec, but fuses pop when they pass their current limit for an amount of time. If your popping 15amp ones instantly (and there should 10's in there) Then theres a pretty strong short circuit somewhere. I suggest the power wire for the horn, is touching the chassis somewhere. Tracing can be very tedious. At the relay, see if there continuity between the power (that goes to the horn) and the chassis. If there is, its def a short circuit. Good luck, i hate finding shorts through harness wiring

Yup, - 3bar or 300kPa = 43.51psi - 1:1 = Every lbs of boost, the FPR simply add's that on top of the base Quoting pressure at idle is harder, as its obviously dictated by how much vacuum your car pulls at idle. If your base is wrong, and FPR controls pressure... one would look replacing it with known good item, or checking the pump in your VL tank is mounted correctly as first steps. Maye borrow a in cabin fuel pressure gauge to check on the street.

The clock spring??

Order ur Tial from a US box pusher. Rates are insane atm.

You said penis

Blitz SBC IdIII ftw. Scouts honour ill post up boost response in a month or two. LoL at MicroShite 2 examples of blown injector drivers and tracks that decide to just fall off the PCB

43-45 base pressure; without engine running. The FPR then increases pressure over that for every pound of boost. So 12psi boost would be about 57psi fuel pressure on a gauge.

If theres some spare spots, have a mate with a rotary thats keen for a run - to mix it up a bit

FYI - Response from Haltech Sales this morning...

Recycled brick to the skull eh? From experience, theres all manor of stickers on imports. Magin if a jap man read a sticker on a motor saying "street machine autobahn extreme" ? His pants would be full of sex wee in .2sec's

They had R and Vtec badges, that means its one yah? haha I was being fictitious, course i meant on the street. One is always prepared on da track. My comment on them being quicker, only applied to real world street situations where you can get caught out when in a revy hi-po import. 8k RPM clutch dump from standstill will beat most things. Same result with ATTESSA and entering apex's. Hahahaahaha - I like.

Whoops, yah toasty indeed, 3 years here and i finally upset someone with my keyboard diarrhea You said... Never the less, sorry if I seemed agressive. Was (too passionatley) disagreeing with ur opinion that a stock RB25 needs to be baby'd, and that boost soley is so wear inducing. Watching other ppl blow up good motors due to bad tuning / lack of understanding is racking my nerves Anyhoo, back on topic