GeeTR

Keets / Bumble - know what your saying, buuut, I still stick by my comment A drag race, where you know its coming then yes, R / 200jiggabang 180sx wins; drop 2 gears, bang bang - done. In real life, your forgetting though, those XR6 Maniacs are sneaky tradies. With their stock exhausts, they creep up so quick; your more likely to hear them coming from the blaring AC-DC or rear muffler turbulence My point is that you can mash the throttle at any speed in one, and they just go. So on the street, in real life they are quicker then a light tune GTR. I don't mean the Jap standard of light tune either. I mean boost, filters, zhaust. Rem too, a stock XR6 will belt out just a 'few' more 14sec 1/4 then a stock GTR will 12.5's I thrashed a stock XR6 for months, and pumped quiet a few stock 'looking' R's. Like i said, while there still deciding what to do, what gear to chuck it into, how much boost to dial up onda Uleh EBC, the FalcoShite has already kicked down and laying 500nm (on the track of course)

Dood, Bumblebee stated things pretty much correctly. His mention of "abnormally high combustion pressure" wasn't in reference to the gradual, linear like rise from a simple boost increase. I read it to mean, the combustion chamber/cylinder pressure spikes from detonation, or knock. Your doing well at 50 posts telling ppl, that 1bar is about the limit for a stock RB25. A simple search of the thread compiled just for ppl like you, would show you that MANY have have run more then this for many a year - reliably. Boost doesn't kill an engine (comparatively) you think 5psi makes a difference, when the area it takes up is then reduced 9 fold when the piston rises and then lit? In your example A and B - if both cars never det, i would say both cars would show almost exact levels of wear. In fact, whos to the the car with more boost, has less wear, as it gets up to cruising speed and low revs @ 5th gear quicker? Forced induction combustion motors dont have a linear rate of combustion pressure to rod load, because the charge isnt burnt in a linear, even fashion. More boost and fuel ends up increasing the burn time if you will, right where the rod goes 90degress and leverage is at its best. Anyway det changes everything, the car with more boost could very well suffer more damage. Set it up smart, tune it right, manage chamber conditions and you can push a stock combustion motor very far (sound like a broken record i know) Edit: Dood, stop rambling and listen

Theres the issue right there. Maybe u snapped a swing.. sorry "rocker" Maybe the tractor timing chain rattled itself off hahaha *chuckles* jk - cant help myself Start with cleaning your idle control valve, and removing your atmo bov if present, till you can tune around it. EDIT You've done 4000kms and haven't loaded it yet? Who suggested that run in program - Hrrrrmmk Nice 4/5 in your avatar

Not on a Sunday dood Get a photo

They are two completely different cars. One will have a warranty, feel like disconnected boat with a stroker diesel. The other will need constant money spent on it (if driven hard and regularly) Has a tourqless, short stroke motor and attracts the five-oh like flies to shite. Check the dyno thread for the power / $ spent on mods your looking at. Seriously, i don't think i could think of two different cars. The Fords are ECU locked and need one of those tricky CAPA thingos and have the build quality... well of an Australian built car. Inversely, the BNR32 is a tuners dream, and as such, will never be as reliable / cheap to run as a newish TaxiCon. Don't get me wrong, the boosted falcons are a good thang, but the attributes that would attract you to one, are at ends to a 18year old Japanese import, a GTR none the less. Try and get a ride in a mild one, as someone correct me if im wrong, but a stock auto XR6 Turbo would KILL a lightly tuned GTR from a rolling start... and keep on doing it. My biased view ...

RB20 yes. RB25 no; they use side feeds.

Might get lucky and be able to offset the cost with what you find under the seats / coin slots - ha

Nunn

http://www.are.com.au will make anything you desire and are in Brisbane, but hey, your car came from Japan

looks haawt!

They'll pass a visual inspection, but not so sure about a proper emissions test. Have you read GuiltToys threads? Some good stuff there.

Interesting indeed. Can shops fit them AS a compliance cat i wonder?

Well thank goodness 99.99% of people are running RB's on this forum, with a large number of them running the same comparable setups

Plastic fuel lines eh? trick. Al - Outa interest, why'd your mechanic replace just the return? (FPR -> tank) Like you say Justin, if you cant find a way to secure a normal EFI hose onto the plastic fuel line, you might have to replace it all *ponders* "plastic fuel lines, something new everyday"

Ha whoops, things were left disconnected, ahh well.

8hp for 4.5psi more?? Not worth the risk, when the difference could be picked up with a diff engine oil... I cant even feel 8hp ha.

Agreed, rebuild your KA and leave world supply's of RB's alone lol

Unless your talking about the E11v1 which I heard were recalled due to rev limit fuel cutting, respectively have no idea what your talking about Hell yes, suck through SU setup ftw TommO - I wouldnt buy a dog from the pound because its the one that wont shit on my carpet; i can train any dog. You can purchase aftermarket knock setups, and i swear i heard somwhere that Autronic or somone is adding the feature. Most of the US's AM ECU's have it built in now. JonTurpening - Thats what happens when the world runs outa oil and Japans mass development of turbo performance cars mid/late 90's almost halts I blame your SUV's

^^ or some hard line (ally, steel, your pick) with a handful of AN fittings

The o-ring in the flanged end of the AFM should prolly suffice, assuming its still in place :0 If its not, you can pick up some thick gasket paper at autobahn etc.

If you don't want the smell, you can find somewhere under the car to fit a custom flat surge tank, or you can fit one in the boot with hard lines, or you can fit in a sealed box. Iv heard some people with Teflon say they can still smell it; so not a 100% solution. If your asking on a forum I assume your piecing it all together yourself. In the boot, rip the carpet out, remove the f.tank access plate and check the lines where they enter. I'm not sure bout 34's but I reckon you'll work it all out if you get under there and have a look. Report back on these strange fuel lines too.

Wikipedia tells me that... Reading that, I would think all cats fitted nowdays are 3-way. Cats are every where, from cheap $300 3" to $600 4" from the US (Metallic substrate, this is a performance forum) Hope that helps

Riiiiight, Haltech are pointing ppl towards a competitors product, due to all of the E11v2 being "shit"

I'm just v.interested in other peoples answers!, as I've never heard (which doesn't mean a lot) of black nylon fuel lines... Sure your not looking at a covering over the steel line? I wouldnt've thought Nylon is fuel resilient, nor capable of taking 5bar of pressure.