GeeTR

Mine used to leak PS fluid around the PS cooler, near the stock battery location. I spent 12 months just filling the reservoir up every now and then, but damm did i pay for it. When i removed HICAS and what not, i spent a good 4 hours degreasing all the filth and crud from under the car... all the way back to the gearbox lol. Many of my hoses were loose as well. I recommend spending some time and tracking the leak down

Agree with most of whats said. Contact Jim. I'v known a few people to make HUGE gains from a CRD tune. He runs em lean with lots of advance in low load conditions; 1/2 throttle, low revs etc... so if your graph was wasnt done at WOT....

Plenum's with I6's are bout flow equality, not outright MASS, IMO The fact ppl are using modded stocky's to make a lot of power and reliably is simply an indicator to me they're loosing a deal of power having to tame fuel & ignition to suit the lowest cylinders det threshold. As URAS said, with these modded stock manifolds, you really would need to trim each cylinder with thermo couples / WB sensor... to get the best from it. High comp and boosted setups require v.good manipulation of cyl pressures, assuming you dont cheat and use WI hahahaha jk. Good result John

Fess up! what were the dots??

Whats "extremely" ? Inj setups is most Skylines are pretty farkin noisy

"When threads turn bad..." haha I rem when my cousin got me into cars, mid 90's. KE Corolla's, Cordia's, NA Rotary's were the bread&butter. 11sec Sigma turbos would eat you, and in cabin, screwdriver tweaked Microtechs was NASA stuff. Ahh the good ole pre-adolescent 90's; wet dreams, women and umm... worcestershire sauce.

The tube with fins on it, that does a L shaped loop, in front of the AC evap

Theres an intake temp sender inda plenum of a BNR32, a plug near the front. 40 is actually not bad for a GTR's engine bay

Whoah, what a thread to bring up, hilarious stuff. Per title "best plumb back" Everyone has their preferences. Cheap, name brand aftermarket device that works, the Trust R is hard to beat. They're like 230 clams, almost half that of a local made Turbosmart one. Compact and simple, does the same recric job a BOV is sposed to, but in a smaller form factor then stock. This is for a spritley BNR32 though where the twins, plus the y pipe take up a heap of room where a o.coiler should be

Yah, i procrastinated for a year or so before doing it. Didn't like the idea of heavy steering Sucked it up, and told myself if I experienced that, id just chuck one of those Tomei black box's on.

I hated jacking my Skyline (more specifically, where to place the stands) The Rail's are fairly weak and i dont wanna crush em. The Sill's are a big no-no for obvious reasons (one of mine was squashed flat when i got it) I used to use the curved section, front / rear, just near where the lower control arm attaches to cross member/rear cradle. I didnt like the idea of living under the car for days like this though. Figuring Nissan designed the sills to take the weight, (as per manual) a mate, Apex Trudger made me up some thick dense rubber blocks with slits (in which the sill sits in) I place these on the jack stands. I jack it where everyone else does. Good point bout the front diffuser, from what your saying it sounds like the R34 one covers the x-member?

...More difficult it gets reading about it, or doing the modification?...

Sure can, though I personally would use the cooler, specially if you intend any hard work / drift for the vehicle.

VVV No hassles - I wasn't joking I took it off temporarily after Rx'n from Japan so i could tap some holes and drain the 1.5L of water from it

Dude, she's prolly trying to get you to pay for damage that was already there. Then she'll sell the car; iv heard about it before. In dimly let areas, ppl slam on brakes, say they saw a roo and you pay for the damage (as the person behind alway does)

Theres a "torsional like" bar under the parcel shelf that equalizes some of the weight of the boot. I would think, upgrading it could open the boot by simply hitting the lever. Once removed the wing off a GTR (full of import water) and the thing shot up, slamming into the bump stops.

What an old thread. Im not so sure a general rule of "3kRPM" I figure, clearences are designed around operating temperature, so keeping it below 3K for 10mins (if theres traffic, in winter conditions) can effect bearing wear. I give it 30-60s then drive keeping under 4'ish. As it warms up, lean on it more.

Spoken of 1000 times, on SAU and NS. Be sure to have a good read of the DIY that exists. Blocking up the pump in a no-no, as the over pressure (can) cause it to fail. Removing the rear stator has been done, but again, the bearings in the pump where designed to take a particular load, having half the axle unloaded causes it to fail as well. I've just done what everyone else has done. Routed the rear stage through the stock PS cooler, removed all the lines solenoids, installed the lock bar. Must be great doing it with no engine in there!

For tuning yes, for stock, prolly not so, as zhaust temp can be derived of sorts from the O2 sensor. I doubt strongly the sensor is of any real accuracy; and truly IS just to warn when the things too hot (blocked)

Before doing anything, check your f.system is actually dropping pressure first using a gauge. Attributing a lean condition to simply fuel pump is prolly a little premature. - Direct power feed to f.pump Search SAU, know about Walbro's funny habits

If you read the first post, getting the rusted thing out is the problem. Covered a lot, Its no biggy as in a R32, it doesn't connect to the ECU in any way. Simply turns the dash light on.

Course Mr.Turbo can assist with a custom core.

Your entitled to post a topic about almost anything, tis just a little strange when NS is the first result when bashing "Silvia" or "180SX" into Google Your excused btw

Yah, check your Supercheap / Autobarn type places.. or get em custom if your fussy

SnakOil my ace, ppl run magnetic sump plugs for the same reason. Here you have much more powerful rare earth magnets (i would assume) right where the oil is already turbulent and full 'o' eddys. Check the site, theres something being picked up by the magnet thats gettn by the filter. These are absolute gold, one of those "cant believe i didn't think about that" ideas thats cheap as a blowjob. CRD and some other shops incidentally have been running them on thier cars for a while.