GeeTR

T28 is pretty generic, slike saying you want some size 11 sneakers. Trust T517 10cm pretty special, Apexi RX6 is hot too i hear If you persist looking on SAU for NS.com info, at least try and borrow the ear of users STR8E180 and URAS on the topic.

Just took some pics of the pump cradle that needs trimming, add em to your guide if you'd like

"Just" 24psi from a T04Z eh? I would think'ish close to 400rwkw... ur going to need more then new 700cc inj's. Oh, and picsorban

Not to be a party pooper, but hold up. To loose half your boost pressure outa leak from a gasket... i would think there would be a VERY prominent noise under load.

4L and a T88 is going to be unfknblvbl when the motors built to rev... 6 bolt main caps arent OEM there no reason haha.

^^^ No offence, but f_ck a flywheel skim, assuming your on a mission to mod (its a GTR) grab a twinplate and lightened f.wheel combo now, otherwise you'll just be trying to hock your newish OEM clutch and re-surfaced f.wheel in the for sale section down the road.

Maybe Trust

Sure, if your driving, and hit peak tourqe and the revs flare, but you aren't accelerating anymore (or minimally) then your clutch is prolly slipping. Does it re-grip later in the revs? Get a mate to drive behind you, he should be able to smell the acrid smoke.

If inside, A, B or C pillar ?

Yup, as per dozens of threads on the topic, throttlebody / brake cleaner and contact cleaners are considered the best options as they are desinged to leave no residue on the hot element whos jobs is to react to the air moving past it.

Rhys, fair nuff sozzles Sam a good start though for a SR20 in a Silvia issue.. would be the NissanSilvia.com forums; with the lack of more info, I did think u was taking the piss Does it only play up when you start the thing? Does it show any rudeness at all when driving? Is it only when cold / hot? Stock fuel pump? BOV - how do you know your BOV is staying shut? Do you mean so when your driving, or again.. when idling after starting it? More info, gets more help

My understanding is that boost is pressure the engine isn't ingesting, load is time based as the higher the gear the slower the motor RPM is accelerating (therefore there's an increased resistance to air flow going into the motor) This combined with the fact your often using more throttle to maintain adequate acceleration in higher gears results in a greater "backlog" of air in front of the motor, meaning more boost and finally more power. Its s viscous cycle  As others have said Phil, your generally more likely to experience a boost spike in higher gears, not lower, as its these higher airflow / faster boost transient conditions that tax a wastegate and EBC's chances of responding accordingly. In your post though, your not comparing apples to apples. How does your 4th gear max boost and spiking issue compare to 4th gear on the street? EDIT: Noticed im talking to a dood who asked a Q 4 months ago - whoops. Boost in lower gears can be affected by dump, zhaust size, WG flap sealing ability... and most importantly EBC.. are you running one? It's not completely easy to compare your setup to others.

N'Country

arseneck

My 2 cents is (legitimate) Bosch's don't fail if installed correctly for the application IE - with large sock filter and provided decent voltage. Rubber mounting at correct height limits the noise they make and gives you the same usage from your tank. There's a few threads on SAU and US Supra sites. The 600hp Bosch's fail often because they are sensitive to garbage ingestion… from not using a correct pre filter (OEM style sock, or AM one) As you mentioned, your tuner had Walbro fail due to incorrect installation (prolly ingestion) Dodgy backyarder forum n00bs have given many a product a bad name, quality German f.pumps are just one of em. I not aware of any EU company's using Walbro's OEM as Porche, Lambo (Audi) and Ferrari do. Besides... Americans make Walbro's.. nuff said Jk - in the end, best to go with what the "tuner" He's the one guaranteeing you're a result yah. Tis good to know the history / facts

Ummm.. spray the cleaner on the part of the AFM doing the metering function... ? On the thermistor... inside the AFM... :| Err, be sure to make the sure the nozzle is facing away from you. Oh, and don't run with scissors. Search the tutorial section

"Start car, coughs... omg whats wrong?" your kidding right NS.com....

SexyTime

*cough* bosch *cough*

Nice turbo choice 60psi massive, ~43psi is base pressure btw. Usual checks, are your plugs wet? if so, are you get'n spark? Checked ECU for codes? Tried disconnecting AFM? Start from the bottom and work your way up. If you haul it to a shop and let em know you've done a full turbo swap in your garage, they will charge you through your ring. That said, if the above is all you've tried.. maybe leave it to somone else truth EDIT: dammmmmit i need to learn to refreash a window b4 posting

Good plan, i like A non N1 block will do fine, but 86+mm doesn't leave much meat between the bores no? Try and get away with the min boring required (common lowest dominator cyl) New guides, springs, retainers and a port match to your manifolds and plenum is worth it imo. Actual heat work not so much. If you ain't seriousally tracking it, a sump isn't needed. Just do the overfill thang. Use a Autronic or Haltech if you have any remote interest in "showing" the $ u spent on the motor... (dunget me wrong, PFC will do the job) Stock IC is fine. Teh issue is, if you do decide to lean on it a little.. track work etc... then you'd want some sump tricks and some surge tank bits. 10K is already enough hey EDIT: damm i shoulda F5'd before posting. You could def get away with no headwork... but i reckon if you going to spend the dooolers, do the head right in case you wanna bigger turbs / cam setup later... likely if you ever want that brutal pull.

"Bro, its your GF's fake Roberto Cavalli sunnies sittin shoty... umm yo!"

They're some sharp macro photos Qik33R