GeeTR

Tis what forums are about... for better or for worse Tis up to people to spend the time, collate similar answers and make up their own minds. Assume he means all used in RB's

Maroon R33 in AFP data center car park

Another SAU dyno day ill miss *sulk*

That sux, still if shit gets outa hand, im sure you can file some sorta harassment case

teenagers

They ain't so great either. Most installed in cars that actually get driven seem to go a little opaque and removing it to clean all the dust n shit off the inside is ridiculous imo

Before you purchase a setup, id advise you check actual response rates of the setup, and accuracy with altitude change Load tuning up mountains with a lesser setup will waste looots of time.

Yup, millimeter's of mercury (mmHg) x100 +7 on the gauge should be around 13.535psi .97psi less then what you were running, ain't that much... i would have thought. BNR32 wont compensate for temp (air density) so are you seeing this drop in the same types of enviro conditions??

Dood, calm down, most posts iv read of yours over the last 3 months are hate filled and negative... breath man

No you haven't It only activates above 50-60 i believe. Somethings wrong and its deciding to come on then. Hit the search button like a naughty nine year old. PS fluid level, after market s.wheel?

As long as the cat isn't blocked and causing excess back pressure, you should be ok. Excess back pressure can cause abnormal heating of the exhaust valve / seat, causing valve stem wear or det.

If you love having a go, you'll love the feeling having all the gear out on the floor. I vote you do it yourself. It’s shite easy. The hardest bit, as above, is removing sometimes dicky rod ends and adjusting them to the correct length to fit the lock bar back in. A list? Hrrm… - Solenoids - Lines - Rear hydraulic rack If you do take it somewhere else, just ramble off that you have a mechanic mate that’s sticking all the gear in his XYZ Nissan, as his car was damaged in a crash; they aren’t going to steal your gear if you have a mate that knows what’s required

To do it nice would cost $... Wheras $ would you get a low'ish kay RB no? Maybe just rebuild the L24 strong and use a nice T3 sized HKS tahbin and hang all the usual stuff off both sides

Im tieing a noose and freezing a 2foot high piece of ice tooonight!!! I swears i saw nothing their.. maybe *sheepish* my car was umm.. s special model.. yes one with no moveable section. Khuunt!

Hah, dear

600hp = 360rwkw'ish race?... go 4" I'm building a 4" dump & gate into a r32, at the mo, which isn't fun while keeping AC in the car.

^^ mo def Noisy or seized idler/tensioner must be up there with dirty AFM, misfire at 3krpm, dodgey oil pressure sender/gauge

For SAU archiving purposes, and just cus i think its interesting the seal got spat out... The serials on the tensioner bearing seal are... 2T52DF0716LB JAPAN NTN EDIT: And rip the fan off, rad out, peice of pizz EDIT#2: Snapped a pic of my old buggered one... cus im a nice guy *cough*

If the custom was still tucked to the floorpan, didnt drop too low (read - not a dead straight pipe to the back) stayed the same diameter; then I wouldnt think it would gain much over a name brand dump, down pipe [cat] then cat back no. Tis my opinions only. Its a cost thing really. For ~300rwkw 3" is fine. It'll keep the raw materials and cat costs down a lil

Before you make you decision on a custom, rem a name brand setup could v.well hold its value when / if you go to sell it. Purchase a good, large cat to start with, so you don't have to change it out at track meetings (and save on the yellow stains on the rear bar)

900 - 1200psi comes to mind for larger vehicles....

Stock boost gauge is in millimeter's of mercury (mmHg) x100 +7 on the gauge should be around 13.535psi Shouldn’t be hard at all. Check the PDF, simply move boost lines from old unit to the new solenoid. Be sure to keep the old solenoid plugged in. Be sure to have a pressure reference feed to the control between throttle body and intake valve.

Not very NSW like.. but in CBR all D's iv seen now have a black number plate surround with 2"x4" white rectangles on each side containing the red/blue LED cluster

haha, same in CBR about 10 years ago. One WRX into a tree, another through a brick wall, and a Volvo was crashed as well... all "while pursuing suspects..."