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GeeTR

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Everything posted by GeeTR

  1. ^^^ clearly its more of a tweakers option. Whats a 1200 d00ler manifold compared to the potential promises of one of these wheels / turbos setups.
  2. Going by the link title, hes prolly talking bout THIS thing. Edit: Theres a "chance" it could be setup like all the other bleeder setups... check this
  3. As a temp band aid, it will of course work fine.
  4. Dood, if your custom muffler burnt out, i would be taking it back to them to fix free of cost. Mufflers for piston motors shouldn't get damaged by a little rich running, thats utterally ridiculous. Swear im not affiliated, but SMB in Sydney do custom rear cans. I personally know of a few people running them in 500-700hp rotary s which run 10-11:1 all day long... thats rich. As for your question, you have no way of knowing which (either 2 or 1) muffler will "flow" more, as you don't know the internal construction. Slike saying a house with 4 entries and exits will have... more efficiently heating ability ? ? If you really want to get the highest flowing legal system, custom is a sure'r bet. PS: What ever your decision, make sure the place your gonging through guarantees the end result... otherwise instead of a can that blew out... you could end up with a illegally loud system.
  5. God damm, 900 for some pipes and filters - new! Sorry, have nothing to help :|
  6. Its been shown that having posi pressure in the intake pipe plays with the AFM. I think someone went has far as rolling a car down a hill at 50kph and saw AFM voltage output fluctuations. SydneyKid mentioned that in some form of motorsport, one way valves are placed in the airbox to alleviate this ram air effect at speed. On my R i duct most of the air from the front passenger brake duct to a enclosed, insulated pod enclosure with a "device" of mine that equalizes the environment in there. SAU has covered this...
  7. The positive pressure bouncing around between impeller and AFM is an issue though.
  8. Pod in proper ducted CAI ftw when 300rwkw+
  9. Check if your actually getting juice to the horn. If u are, connect horn direct to 12v battery
  10. 044 - ~$230 delivered from many places. CRD on here are one em of em. 600hp, though are externals so no one way check valve. You'll also need a couple of fittings. An 040 should do 400rwhp easy though; wouldn't touch a walbro with my enemies c_ck.
  11. North West baby! Lol, nah, they charge like $90-$100 for 80% used tires. So unless you get a good used set, just wack some new cheapies on. Sure Mick can sort you out
  12. If they're newish HKS's or overhauled, then I doubt the comp wheels rubbing on the front cover. Considering they were recently taken off the car, i would say that its an exhaust leak, did you (or they) use the old gaskets?? Ill put 100 internet dollars on it.
  13. Really upgrade? to what? Iv got an opportunity to purchase a Rice Racing pneumatic setup (no electronic pump) They're 100% reliable with no chance of pump failure (duh) 12.8 @ 20psi with the stock m.fold and .63 housing is great
  14. I wouldn't think you would differ from ARP's instructions, as they did design and produce the stud
  15. It would be pretty clear; you wouldn't be able to see through it! As the gate controls pressure, i would start there. Are you running a bleeder? EBC?
  16. Hey Mafia, I know its an old thread, but was wondering if you could possibly update us with maybe things your learnt since running the kit? Things you would change, do differently? Thanks !
  17. Good thread Sooo? ppl shouldn't doubt religion and just lay over???? http://www.zeitgeistmovie.com/ Don't debate, watch
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