GeeTR

Fuel stealing pixxies

LoL "Made good motivation down low, with a pretty optimistic top end. Life questioning came on strong, and held flat to mid life crisis. Knock meter was round the 30's, prolly due to premature balding"

I thought i had an obsessive compulsive issue, the 10's of hours iv spent stressing over oil and fuel lines. Setup, maintenance, long term effects etc Good to see im not the only one LoL

Priming - is when you flick to accessories, and let the fuel pump whine away; its drawing fuel into the stator and pressuring the lines. It will go quieter or quiet when done. Now you hit "start". You shouldn't need more then one hit of the starter motor. I was under the impression everyone did this 040's I believe come with drain back valves, 044 don't.

Lol@ 10minuteCar R33Turbo - Instead of the smell being derived directly from boost, i would say its just from the increased heat when on 11psi and WOT. As mentioned, after market systems can cause non factory heating of area's. (In your case its oil, could be plastic, rubber smell etc) Clean it up, and look for leaks, you might need to have a think about some under bonnet heat management

me thinks, that if after peak tourqe, and hence peak acceleration of the rollers, the momentum of the rollers continue to spin, it could unlock the converter. I'm looking at the graph, and it does actually look like phenomena occurs just as the steep ramp levels off a little. I'm not sure if i explained that correctly. Darren - does it do this on the street as well?? If not, ill put $100 on this theory! ... in net land of course :D

Theres a comprehensive thread from SydneyKid regarding the boost controller, and others who've built them. Their single wire AFR meter, as with all of them are a joke for anything more then telling you if your mixtures are "rich" or "lean" at idle. High speed 4/5 wire units are about $4k, though the cheaper, $1000 units like the LM are very good. Cheers

I think maybe this is your issue. Getting to the final completed, polished end isn't about using the polishing wheel; 95% of the work is in the wet and dry. When you say, "sanded back" is it to at least 800grit? 1000 / 1200 would be better. Could also be the buffing compound, some sticks to the metal a little more then others and throws a lot of that black gaul. Good luck

wtf, the stock one works pretty well doesnt it?

Hey dood, Id suggest its a boost / vacuum line filter. They're used in HKS EBC and electronic gauge setups, amongst others. I don't think a dying turbo would drop boost, if by dieing you mean failing bearings /core; the motor has well enough flow to negate any increased friction. A dodgey / dieing cat, boost gauge, bleeder, EBC could

Supporting the zhaust off it could prevent an after market manifold crack as well. I'd rig something up but thats me.

GT35 is perfect for your needs. Theres a few around here with them on RB25's

Only rail and FPR left Orig post modded

The engine bay looked fairly stock and the GT35 IW they come with stock, are only good for 700hp (max, prolly 2bar) at the motor, so ~400rwkw (560rwhp) With 400rwhp you could have come 2nd

lOl

If your going GT35, a traction control device would help a lot. http://www.racelogic.co.uk/?show=Traction_Control A dude i knows fitted one to a 400hp RX7 S6. Pure race. Dial in the desired wheel slip %, set the rev limit, set the launch rev limit, place a switch on the clutch for flat shifting. Id have one now, if I had a RWD. Look into to it, if your serious about ripping down the 1/4 with a large tahbin, i cant think of ne thing better

Ha, i can think of somthing you could do for some spare cash

Keep in mind 80% duty is considered max safe, to prevent a lean out if for what ever reason, the car over boosts. That said, many ppl run on the edge

Lol, like my gran who'd finish a babbling conversation that had started the day before. God rest her soul

Taking pictures before hand would have been the go lol - sorry

Injectors don't make power, they supplement it. Use your PFC and check what inj duty your running at that max power. If its close to 100% then that would have stopped the tuner from winding more boost in. Talk to the tuner who plugged the numbers in.

Juicy topic. I too thought most of the GT3X range had ones built into the core. Conclusive A: would be nice

The torque drop off is rather smooth, as is the pickup. In my experience, EBC games or tire slip would show to be much more rapid.

With all due respect, bollocks

A cat is more restrictive then an open pipe yes? So a 3.5" cat flared out to a 3" system, will still clearly flow more then a 3" cat with 3" sys... ;S By how much, and is it worth the cost, who knows. In a fortnight or two im using a 5" cat with a 4" system.