GeeTR

Do R33 V-Spec's have fins or ribs on the rear diff? (or is that just 32's?)

Baaaah humbug

Correction: Small multiple thermo fan setups, that dont use a shroud (stock or custom) tend not to draw enough air through the radiator

Sounds like you already have a decent system, so if noise, ground clearance are issues for you, i wouldn't think it would warrant the effort (power) for you to go to 4" If your starting from scratch thats another matter

Nice work man! Are you making a top for it, or sealing the sides against the underside of bonnet?

Nathaniel, I'm not sure what your question was so Your future choice of management depends on what your doing with the car in the future (surprise surprise) If the cars almost how you like it, power wise, then use a cheaper, limited option; piggy back, eManage and try and get some of that "spring back" you talk of. If u know you want to really fly, then clearly get PFC, Haltech, Autronic plug in. Generally, tidy up tune is $200 - $400, and a full tune $500 - $1000. Call local tuners for solid pricing.

Its a three step gauge so that the average commuter isn't worried when thier new 50k saloon starts getting hotter on a summer day in traffic.

Gapping the plugs smaller; making the distance between the center electrode and ground electrode smaller, makes it easier for the cars charging system to actually fire the gap, and make a spark. Technically you want the largest / hottest spark available, to have the best chance of fully, and timely igniting the charge mixture. With the above in mind (spark size determined by charging system ability) you only gap a plug smaller if your having issues firing that current gap size (due to poor charging system [old coils] or high cylinder pressure / turbulence)

================================================================== From: http://www.skylineowners.com/forum/showthr...8154#post758154 Just done this job, it free's up a bit of space, just right for a oil catch can, plus I'm told they don't last much longer than 100,000km so most will be past their sell by date. Oh you could always replace it from Nissan but you'd need to re-mortgage your house BTW This is an R32, I'm pretty sure it is relavent for 33's and 34's too, let me know if not... Any way on to the removal, very simple so any one with some tools can attempt this. 1) You'll start off with something like this, excuse my engine bay being in such a state but I'm in the middle of several messy jobs. 2) Pull off the top 3 pipes and losen the 10mm bolt that holds the canister. 3) There is one more big pipe under the canister, you can try and disconnect this from the tube that runs in to the chassis rail but it's awkward, I just pulled the canister up and the pipe popped off any way, that's the canister removed. Next to the canister there is a 10mm bolt and 2x10mm underneath, remove those and the whole metal bracket comes free. 4) Now on to removing/blocking of the pipes, the two circled in green can be removed completley from just behind the top timing belt cover. This can be done without removing any of the IC piping, it's just that mine is removed due to other stuff I'm doing. The one circled in red is the fuel tank vent and needs to be left open as it is, considering a small amount of fuel vapour will escape here I'm going to advise you extend this pipe down to the bottom part of the engine for purely safety reasons, personally I feel the location I have it on the IC pipe is fine, it gets enough air past it and the vapour really isn't alot now it's not getting sucked out, I'll leave it up to you to decide, if your in any doubt/can't decide route to the bottom of the engine. (you can remove the metal clip) 5) On to the other side of the engine, is where one of the pipes leads to, losen the metal clip then pull the ruber tube off and cap this off with whatever you feel best, I've used a bolt for the moment, you can then cable tie this tube to some where suitable/the other rubber piping... The other pipe leads to the front throttle bodies, this again can be pulled off and capped. And that's a good job done, I also removed the foam around the IC piping to clean things up a bit further, you should be left with this little lot that used to clutter your engine bay =================================================================

Double Up

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You'll need somthing like this

Track cars see low km's and sooner service (pull down) Hi Po street cars see maybe 100,000 km's before a freshen up, decreasing the chance of noticing greater then normal journal wear... im assuming hes saying.

Theoretically the dual is supposed to control boost more accurately, when bleeding a decent amount over nominal gate pressure. Some people have switched from other EBCs to the dual saying it cured issues. I think its more to do with the SBC being easier to setup then the solinoid itself. Or, it could be simply a marketing ploy devised by evil marketing teams to hock more product, like sunscreen to prevent these so called "UV rays" which supposedly originate from the "Sun" and spawn life shortening "cancers" Phhft, sif

Phhft dude, come on, whats a little damage in the quest for 4kw, don't be soft - Lo

They cant see you staring at them Here here

your forgiven this time only

Because a high single has been comprehensively proven to be cooler!

JASMA is a Jap certification, not a manufacture

Could be a Crimson Tiger moth, a Spilosoma curvata from the arctiinae sub family. "This moth has a hairy body. The abdomen is red in colour with black marking. The thorax is pale brown in colour with a dark brown spot. The wing patterns are vary between individual. The caterpillar feed on young leaves of gum tree."

At a guess, its from a Top Secret car, so prolly yah

Wot and leave CyberSleep??? oh dear

Merry Welcomes! Pics pics pics

Hahah, never followed it after the 1st one, but Luuuurve your enthusiasm! Good Luck

Saying you'd like it quiet and one good for performance isnt narrowing down the requirement, as they're the two apposing attributes every one wants. Slike saying, "im not picky, but with my coil overs, i would like em comfy and smooth, but also tight and controlled through corners" or "want my turbo with no lag, and a blistering top end" and you better belive the setups that ARE close to being perfect... def not cheap. Depending how tight $ it is, a vaughly decent 3" cat is $180-$300,(and a sick 5" - $500) then just pick your cat back setup. Theres many thread on this, though everyone has a different idea of "loud" To have the best chance of making the right choice for you, going to a drag night, or track day, or local Fri night cruise, where you can ask ppl bout setups, is the best bet.