GeeTR

Maybe you could tell with a test light, or multimeter in the plug end. Activate the central, and see if you get a signal out of the plug.

Nice mod, I thought bout sanding down the fins on the unit and gluing a taller heat sink, but this is far less work Power Transistor Unit

Kyle spends a lot of time on the collector, filing, smoothing etc, it might be tricky getting a XYZ exhaust shop to modify it. I would 100% call Kyle and talk about your options.

You still haven't mentioned mods, or future mods so.... Stick with a PFC or signal bending piggy back unless you know your going to want double the rwkw's down the road; then you could possibly convince yourself to spend the $2400 for plug-in Haltech E11 & $500 tune or Autronic SM4 (even more $$) They're up there Before you spend $350min on the Apexi Boost Control kit, consider checking the costs of other full fledged, multi featured EBC's With a handful of breathing mods, you still cant go past a PFC for cost and ease of use. Yes, there are 1000hp/9sec crazy cars running PFC's, but at that level, it would be easier to justify spending the $3k on Auttronic/Motec/Haltch etc etc. PS: Your going to find a lot more information in the Forced Induction Performance area, then the small local CBR section

LoL

Thanks Have seen +/- 30rwkw@1bar and +/- 500rpm(fullboost) depending on cams, timing and manifold... and of course dyno

My car is almost back on the road with... - RB26DETT (stock) - 260 JUN cams - GT35R .83 (custom with Mr Turbo nitride bearings, bigger comp wheel and power ported front cover) - 6boost manifold - 4" turbo > 4" cat > PEII - 60mm gate - PFC, 700, 044, blah blah From planning this setup over 3 years ago, and hearing about results from others, i plan to see 300rwkw on 1bar, and low 400's on 2bar. Full boost by 3500-4000rpm (I'm sick of speculating now, I'll just wait and see) Hope this helps

You must be good, knowing the picture was with the motor upside down haha

Vote#1 for best thread ever

Good Christ, your missing the ACC and distribution block thingo. I think i know what your doing though. Ill have to go home and look at my setup, then report back tonight if i get some time.

*scratches head* I was sure there was a big ol' bolt on the front?

Found the same thing when my R came from JapLand.

Not sure man. An hour or two following trace lines in the workshop manual would hold your A: though...

Np - Good Times

^^ Yup. 32's getting old, so prolly (hopefully) normal blow by for a motor of that age. Wipe the oil away and check again later to see how quickly it builds up again.

The old "long jimmy driver to the ear" trick works well i think, till you find a proper stethoscope / knock cans

- The thermostat is where you are pointing in your last pic I believe - The pinched pipe your referring to, is the return for the turbos water supply. Water comes off the line that goes through firewall, then around back of head to the banjo "T" piece. Coolant that doesn’t go down the "T" piece and through both turbos, back towards the block, goes around the front of the motor and connects to that alloy piece (where top radiator hose connects) The idea, I would think (putting my mind into that of a Nissan engineer) is that it feeds the turbos with close to constant engine temp coolant, because it effectively is always flowing past the banjo "T" piece. This is unlike if you had a pipe going from cool side of radiator to the turbo, as water would head up in the line (close to exhaust manifold) before going through turbo. Its very very unlikely its causing your cooling issues, it might just up the temp of the water feed to the turbos (as the kink is reducing flow through the pipes (that are very close to manifold) Cheer'oss PS: The engine is brown in my paint shop pic, just like your motor ha

Your diagram is a little too ghetto for me to even understand Is it birds eye view? I spent a fair amount of time thinking about lines and what not, but still cant figure out your drawing, sorry man.

If your (needing to) run twin 044's in the first place, injector fuel distribution is prolly guna mean your running a AM rail (6x 700cc+ inj's, long rail, good idea) with twin feed... possibly. I'm too lazy to do the math, but when your maxing out a 044 pump and need two, possibly you'll reach the limit of the standard steel lines. When you get there, 800rwhp+... $100 max worth of hard line will be the least of your issues *evil laugh*

Depends on setup. When my R was stock, it felt like 25% lol... serious Hence, the usefulness of EBC's I never like this idea. Performance is total. What if it was 390 on a well planed track day? Would you baby your car? Thats for aftermarket (or PFC) knock sensors are for (not to mention human ears) I reckon the idea's to tweak your inlet temp correction to counter hot days. End results are end results, anything you can make compared to the guy next to you, is a profit smile.gif Trent, wasn't there a time, when bar and plate coolers where deemed superior to tube and fin? AVO's 1000hp coolers are still bar and plate... as are upper echelon HKS IC's i believe. For the purposes of the performance arena, i think "heat soak" refers to when the devices that are meant to move heat from intake air -> IC -> ambient air work in the opposite. This is noticeable in stand still traffic, where a IC can introduce ambient temps BACK into the IC -> intake air. This applies of course to intake piping and plenum's etc. F_ck Google. Meh to stock, 400rwkw+ deems AM pods and a proper CAI necessary for street application (im sounding like a c_nt tonight, must the the multiple personalities) : To answer your original question, i think R's suffer from heat soak more then others, due to the surface area of all the piping. Twin turbos, twin intakes, twin filers, twin manifolds etc. My R when stock felt like a dash mounted marshmallow after a stand still period. Proper CAI's, bonnet vents etc help, but even after you have tweaked all your inlet temp correction values, you have to accept more heat means less power. You can imagine then why 5mins cruising in 5th at 80km/h in 50 weather has such a profound effect on throttle response and mid range (due to the ignition advance the ECU winds into (or should) in those conditions) read into it, what you will loler'NZ-bungie jump

LoL'flaps Accusumps seem to wheezle their way into every discussion bout oil systems hahah Brilliant idea, if you can find room to fit them... accept they add more "connections" to a setup, and hold dirty oil, when doing a change. (5000km changed should moot that point course)

Loosing a motor is never a joke, but living with a scar that revolves around "using at little aircraft fittings as possible" is a little overboard i think. We aren't talking engine dampeners and Twister gale force, conical air filters. The automotive (incl HiPo automotive) industry rely on fittings at its core. I would, as others, would eagerly benefit from more details on how a fitting hurt you, as a learning aid Your right in being suspect bout a device that you add to something so vital, as your oil system, but rem Earls is a world leader in hardware. Proper multi million dollar racing portfolios rely on them, bread and butter. Plus, as mentioned, worst case it jams and you notice a oil temp raise from a gauge etc... and pull over. Not to get all serious and shizzle, but gota judge things/events relatively.

^^ Quieten down, my old boss f_cked him mother often, though NEVER was careless enough to drop boost. 100's maybe 1000's of people don't experience what you have. Grind it out and figure out why your setup with a TT isn't working. Ultimately i think a EBC is the way to go, but using a manual bleed / TurboTech is still completely fine. With the price of one, do it, at the very least it will give you a good feel of what a EBC actually does when setup correctly. $$ for results, you cant beet a good bleed / Turbotech style device.

I'm aware what they can do, just interested in what they really do. Kappa, if it was you, good luck man, get a good lawyer. Rem, don't clench down too hard in the slammer, i hear it just makes it bleed more