GeeTR

Old War Torn has had a real relationship with that 350z, maybe hes found a tyre that wont delaminate? - Delaminated the rears, spun car at 300 while down shifting in 2003 - Forgot to redline the car in 5th to 6th gearchange loosing time in 2004 - With a new WRX rear end to prevent cambering when the car squated in 2005, forgot instructions and ran off the end of a track in qualifying putting JUN boss Koyama-san in a kneck brace. JUN and Top Secret built the car, not Daijiro if im not mistaken. He just keeps crashing it

Keep in mind, the cops there might use the stats like they do in Oz. If you crash in the wet in a 60km/h area, doing 40km/h... with no one else around, its attributed to you not slowing down enough to meet the conditions ... "due to speed" Its how the government gets the stats about all the "speed related accidents" increasing the ability to get funding for more camera's - yay

Cool, so we got a Skyline, and Flindstones car and a RS...? Is anyone actually serious? Would be interesting to know what happens to one, if they get caught doing double the limit

you'd prolly have more luck in the Maintenance section. Check the ECU for error codes, maybe a bung sensor, as a a solenoid that control PS assist is speed dependent. Stupid question, but are the tyres all inflated to proper pressures?

Here in Canberra it gets -5 and can sometimes not go positive temps till after lunch

Np. Keep in mind, the home flush treatments are nothing compared to a proper tank dunk by a radiator specialist.

Sounds like you need an excuse to run some under car hardline and fill Mr Speedflows pockets a little more ha Your car is already off tap crazy gurl. Id hazzard a guess that very few of the big HP cars in the "SAU Dyno" threads run larger lines, i reckon your fine.

Me doesn't see anything at all in your picture. Assuming, your talking bout the darker patch's near the center - If that was carbon from a leak, itd be on the cam covers too yah? A leak there usually sounds quiet dreadful. Aka late 90's auto Hyundai Excels and almost ALL Tarago's (older shape) You would need a MIGHTY big leak to actually feel it, as "sluggish'ness"

As mentioned, the speed of the blink is dependent on the complete electrical resistance through the circuit. A bad connection or funky bulb will cause the blink frequency to rise

Yup, and they get it from Earls, the manufacture of the actual hardware i would think.

Holy Shit dood, i had to check if i mentioned an airport in my story... as I used to park my car literally 300m from our only airport! Fark, i wonder if I can sue them....

Yar, that was the Jap one I was going to buy. The remote filter mount looks like a peice of military grade hardware!

Dammit too slow, I gota rem to F5 the page :|

VPW Holley SummitRacing That part is Earls thermostat or "oil stat" - again available from the above links. Look around, you might find that you can order it cheaper from US rather then locally. Look around, I considered the Pommy gear Aeroquip

"How to Dose" BOV threads on SAU are like the legs of the virgin blond at high school; everyone wants a piece before they close haha I made a funny too

Sounds like you're serious about protecting your investment. None of the cheap kits around fitted my idea of rock solid, and the Jap ones are way over priced, carrying an insane amount of mark up. I liked the look of a certain chunky CNC cut take off and adapter that I saw on full house drag cars, PAC cars, etc etc years ago. Took ages to find them, they're the same bits sold here I grabbed the block take off and filter head from ARE plus a Earls -10 AN fitting for a pressure sender. I then picked the oil cooler of choice, few $100 bux of aircraft fittings later and some hose and hey presto! It's the most hardcore, solid solution I could think of. I later found out, that Earls actually make the billet bits, so you can import em from the US for almost nothing with the way the Ozzi dollar is now No way would I use a cheap $400 kit with the above available, I don't give a shite that people have been running em for years with no issues. Def a case of pay now, save later.

4" from Turbs to Tip; muffler + Cannon should do the job. Edited: for compliancy

Well ur a gurl Ash, who didn't watch enough Voltron ... hahah jk bruv Like Ash says, if your bleeding a small amount from nominal gate pressure, ur ok with Turbotech etc. Its really only the upper echelon of rice and self richoness that you'd want a EBC to bleed more then 1bar. Sup to you man, if i was you, id run a $40 manual bleeder. When you start wanting more max target booost then actuator... or if you want more controll over boost rise.. go EBC.

Good son of rajab, i thought my swedish/english was bad... What ever your trying to say, i doubt your $2000 GT3076r has taken damage. It would be a "sensory input to your ECU" issue me thinks. Check that nizzle out. You haven't told us bout the basics, so widdle the branch and let us know

Congrats mangle dang What was your Q: again?

Lend me your dealer.. 0438-648-863 Ur shit would spank my world sideways

Listen to Zertek, the mans a god! rofl s**t'a'copters deary - if u cant jimmy it out... leave it to the professionals who qoute time and money... did i just say that? Faaark meh

Yah, tin snips or "shears"

- Flip down from the ceiling? - Use a DIN spot and build a motorized tray with some switches, worm drives and a PICAXE to control it all - Mount it where you want it now, and use a sheet metal bracket that goes up underneath the right hand edge of the glove compartment door? Iv been going through the same thing (on a smaller scale with PFC HC) Iv made a bracket from sheet alloy, that holds the HC a little higher then in your picture, and secures down the left hand side of the top DIN slot. I don’t like it being on show all the time. ATM I'm thinking bout a CarPuter. Could use that new "dial displaying" SW in development for showing output, DataLogit for tuning. Could run a Wideband output to the laptop too... true utopian all in one 2 cents

Fancy way to mount some fancy gauges Slightly off topic - Can the screws on the back of Defi's be undone for mounting purposes, or would something fall off inside? Always wonderered, never been game to try...