GeeTR

Nice work man!! That’s a pretty intricate shape

For a moment it looked like the mineral damage i have on my car. Where i used to work, used bore water for irrigation. On a hot day, i found the sprinklers had wet my car. Thinking nothing of it, i noticed the next day, something in the water had actually eaten or pitted the paint where the water marks where! Grrr. Need that respray now

Nissan sell all 3 TB for $3000 here in OZ Its time like these, that people go single throttle body. Its a virtue

Hey man, I hear that the ECU takes the mean average signal from both AFM's. So Find the GOOD AFM, and run the output into BOTH inputs pins at the ECU as a temp fix.

Not sure, but workshop manual has it for sure. Pauly's webpage has a copy, if you don't.

^^ +2

The stocker gauge is more like a 3 way switch, not a constant smooth response, as you've seen; its moved 20 degrees on the HC, and shows nothing on the stock temp gauge. Its to stop the average commuter from freaking out. Did you take it somewhere to flush, or do a "home treatment"? Stock radiator and an aftermarket IC still shouldn't really make your car that much hotter. Pull the thermostat out and test it. Procedure should be in the workshop manual; place in water on stove with a thermometer and make sure it opens at the right temp An oil cooler is an oil cooler, it doesn't redirect anything. Your thinking bout a oil thermostat, or Oil Stat... but most people in Oz don't need / use em. "Use the search button noob" .. ... Haha, just joshin man, you've clearly done your looking and are desperate to get the issue fixed. Good luck, let us know how you go

Increase in engine speed, increases engine stress to the power of 3. You have listed no mods, so assume stock cams, head etc, which will keep your power pegged at mid engine speeds anyway. Rem to post pics when it fails hehe

That tube your talking about is a PITA... but from what your saying, aren't you just trying to take the rubber off and replace? As said, just cut it, and replace with the new stuff. PS: I'm assuming your talking about the low pressure, "return to reservoir" lines? If not... ;(

I assumed he was talking the flow potiential of the metal lines that run up underneith. You cant really just keep piling up the base pressure, as 45 + 30 max = a fair deal already.

True that, assuming your talking about engines here ... iv heard of more then one N1 oil pump going bust due to bouncing off hard rev limits.

Assuming a R33 GTST has lines of the same diameter as a BNR32, twin 044's, T51 and 780rwhp

My bad, not the Falcon... But the GM 3800 engine - Series III, in the Ford Duratec uses the returnless

CDI and MSD setups aren't used to keep help u tune into 103.9 Country Classics As rob said, in times when gap ionization is hard, big boost, lean mixtures, rich mixtures (cold start), low intake charge velocity, WI - i would think achieving the filthiest ball of un shrouded plasma one can muster, would be an advantage. Under normal / lower power figures though; i wouldn't have thought it would make much of a diff, which coincides with testing. I'm sticking it in my "interweb redneck mod" folder, till i see a single setup that makes MORE power and uses LESS fuel in normal operating conditions, read - "not used to fix an underlying issue"

Not sure what a "dropped wastegate" is. Pictures tell a thousand words. Post some pictures. If the flap has fallen off, getting another and welding it on can be done etc.

The BA is one of them i believe.

Comments = LoL, Gold LatinR33, seems some people get away with running them atmo... most don't

They're often called oilstat's Quality peice of kit >> http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.as...+115+4294843279

Lol, what with all the vagina flashing and wot not hahaha, good form

I think the restriction of a 2.5 / 2.0 inch pipe would be negligible at low power figures.

Q: is, does the car run fine, or have you just got the error code?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/t163002.html Its the catalytic converter "over temp" light. Supposed to tell you to fit a new one, as the constant overheating of the cat will destroy it, causing a collapse. If you just got a new cat back, its possibly not been connected back up. As its a only a warning, and doesn't feed back into the ECU, you can just pull the dash globe.

Bugger. I have the GTR PFC, but would rather the single AFM and filter then two... running a medium single. I have two Nismo replacement 60mm units, with the idea to sell em and get a new Q45, though some say they aren’t good tuners AFM's. Hrrrrm. Decisions.

There’s a consensus that specialty g.box fluids fix most syncro issues. Redline helped my box going into 1st while rolling, as well as a small nick when shifting from 3rd > 4th

Sure, let your mouse to the walking scampering http://www.vpw.com.au/productgroup.asp?Cat...p;PrdGrpID=3749 http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?N=115+400041