GeeTR

The 4" big body cats from SMB Costly, though you wont be blowing them out like some of the cheaper ones.

A thought... the truss’s or ribs on the back plate, although not thick, would provide some bracing, to think it snapped there is pretty wild. Many people use the Bee-R device, plus many more the anti-lag function the Motecs and Autronics have (both cause ignition through the manifold / exhaust) Instead of any amount of back firing through the exhaust causing the failure, maybe it was some sort of external force on the compressor cover due to excess engine movement, or something.

Vote 1 for thread closure Double a 13B and you got 2.6L... 33 pages of GT35R / T04z >> http://www.ausrotary.com/viewtopic.php?t=107563 <<

Any luck? I would like to find a AFM solution suitable for 350-400rwkw

I agree, good explanation Bubba!

I’d just say, there was an expectation from going from GTST to the R, that it would perform hard outa the box. Rem, they needed some fairly awful gear to lower their output for the JDM market. Give or take 10-15kw, the fact they make around 220rwkw with a cat back and relieved inlet (be it pods or a good panel) when they are supposed to be making 206kw at the crank points to that. Welcome to the mod train, all aboard

...not for sale They're $1850 new.

It would almost always be open. You could get the same effect but sicker, by just removing your whole exhaust before the cat :\

i reckon its worth tracing the boost lines to figure out why its still reading stock'ish boost, before installing anything.

A dead stock GTR with pods & cat back is about 210rwkw. 210rwkw pulling 1530kg is feels like puss. ... Time for mods locoloc

SAU needs a PFC mod'ing thread. US Rx7forums get right into it, with blue LED back lights, and separating the screen from the navigation buttons etc.

Small / Medium single on a RB26, way of the future if u ask me Custom GT35R with cams should net full boost by 4000 with a 430rwkw top end. No one talks about these setups, cus they're so special - hahahah

I was all set to purchase and build a TechEdge unit, but decided against it. Innovative are very popular and must sell 10's of 1000's of units. I have mates that use em with only others that cost $1000+ being faster and more solid (read: output stability with altitude change) Reading the output from something I made myself and then making ignition / fuel changes seemed a little risky to me

Iv seen two BNR32's with T78's ( not sure if 29d) both were around 400rwkw's, unsure of boost level

Hrrrm, have you got an aftermarket ECU? Putting back to std shouldnt make it worse

Turbo's dont blow motors, the amount of air they move with insufficient fueling does. If you have the pump, injectors, spark, and way of controlling it all, then you'll be ok, its then up to you how much boost you run on the stock motor.

Nope. The middle picture from your link. The silver side on the left is the compressor cover, containing the compressor wheel. The bit pointing down, is the outlet, and a flanged elbow would bolt on there i would assume.

If hes on a budget, hes prolly not keen on spending whats required to support a T70. Theres a lot of negatives running a large frame turbo on a stock engine at low boost.... laaag.

LoL, AR has nothing to do with the naming convention of the turbo. A T04z rear turbine housing for instance, comes in AR's of .70, .84, 1.00, 1.15, 1.32. The AR is the ratio of the cross sectional area of the turbine nozzle : distance from the centerline of that area to the centre of the turbine wheel. IE: You can get a .70 AR capable of flowing 200hp, you can get a .70 AR capable of flowing 900hp Your best bets to learn the limits of various stock bits of peices you have. injectors, pump etc etc, and then size a turbo that will be useful to you, in that power window. High flows are popular. This LINK will help show you what you can do, with what parts Thanks

Q1 - Buying the FPR was prolly a little premature. The idle control valve, or stepper, should open sufficiently to start the car. If you need to feather the throttle; maybe give it a clean. Check the ECU for error codes, clean AFM etc etc. Rape the forums search button for others experiances. Q2 - Use a penetrator on the screw and let soak... then use some multi grips around the outside of it. Try a "ezi out" if not previous doesn't work. Set the base to 43-45psi fuel pressure. Q3 - Setting the pressure too high or too low will stop it from starting, but it wont blow up. Setting the pressure too high and running it for a long time could coke your combustion chamber. Setting the pressure too low and running it could blow your motor up. If you have some basic tools, patience and are able to use the search button on this forum, you should be able to save your self the labour by fitting turbo and dump. I would leave the FPR unless your getting the thing tuned / chipped in the future.

Any Luck Rus?

As i mentioned, they can take some time in setting up correctly

I worry about the stock of spare parts with all these megawatt drag cars. ... thats my meaningless chime for today

You should know by now, all the best stuff is a risk to ones health! Hahah

Your cats over heating due to unburnt fuel from the motor burning down in the pipes, its a secondary effect of the real issue. If its missing on low load situations, like on the overrun, then its prolly not coils. - Check all the usuals like AFM, plugs, etc with your basic tools - Make some coffee and search SAU like if it was going to go bust for all the other things ppl have checked with RB20's and low load misfiring.