GeeTR

A small paddle wheel on a air tool could work, otherwise its your fingers, and a lot of time.

Interesting Q. I would have thought that it would be louder for sure. I to have the same cat back, and have thought about making up a new center section without the middle muffler. Really though, i think its that last final cannon thats the big sound killer.

Check for a manual from the manufacture.

Be Super Uber crazy cool, and buy my GTR BOV's. For just $150 each you can enjoy the type of turbo response that Nissan envisaged for its Group A racing cars! OMG, Jizz Godzilla Serious, PM me, and you can feel the true power that is valve springy flap flap diaphragm toosh toosh! Sound guaranteed or your money back

Good son of rajab theres been some corkers this weekend. Its like making a cordial drink man. The aim is to make MORE drink, but at the same have the same strength taste. Uv got the ability with your big turbo to pour (move more air) more water into the glass, but where as a weak (lean) drink will just agitate you.. a lean mixture will uncontrollably ignite in your engine and pop it. FPR (and pressure raise) + SAFC will allow some leeway... but really, if you KNOW you want power, and have a bigger tahbin in mind, grab a real aftermarket ECU and some injectors, sell the FPR and tune to your next bottleneck. Its not just about a free flowing water source, u gota be able to accurately meter your cordial concentrate delivery, otherwise its weak city and boom.

I like to think an "unregulated flame front" or resulting "chamber overpressure" is due to heat(pressure) and its effect on a gaseous volatile mix of petrochems and an oxidizer. All other real world causes spawn from that. Not trying to be a f_kwit, its just it can help to think about the actual cause before being blinded by theory… like the octane one below; something simple could just coincide with the occurrence. “Theres a virus sweeping the country that makes you tired in the morning? Dear son of rajab baby Jesus, i must have it!!! jk Sure its det? Does the sound come on quickly?... as it usually starts fairly sporadically, and if you keep the foot in, will develop into a constant "tinky" noise. As mentioned, get it checked now, its not bad luck, there’s prolly a simple fundamental issue. Or maybe find out why his 120rwkw modern Skyline is det'ing sooner then later.

Going out on a limb here, is it normal for the description of combustion chamber based, flame front effects to get me really excited? No? (even if det heading was used to describe pinking) No one? ... Ok, back in my booth If your R34 is making noises caused be chamber pressure spikes, i would be worried. Check the usuals, ECU error codes, ignition advance. (Not sure, shouldn't a stock R34 ECU, throw a code if it'd experienced real det, and did a R&R dance?) Maybe you picked up some bad fuel. Serious stuff, good luck

Strange indeed. Boost - #1, id check the EBC for what unit of measurement its using. Hook up your lecky gauge properally, or use a known good mech unit from a mate, run some dodgey hose out the bonnet, through the window; good to go in 30seconds. Power - was it built for same compression? same headgasket etc? Are you noticing lack of go when under load, or does it seem to free rev tightly? Talk to your engine builder about bearing clearances. You prolly at this point check ignition, do a quick comp test (Just for shits n giggles, results could be hard to compare depending on KM's of run in) As for boost, the manual might say 11.5psi, but iv def seen 8 on more then one car. When mine hit the shores of this dry country, it'd run 10.something psi, with pods and a cat back so who knows. Hand the thing back to the tuner when run in, crank a few bar into it, then complain about the 20kw loss... .. oh and wax that 2JZ EDIT: Pretty sure most ppl see 1bar with restrictor gone SeeyaGTR EDIT2: Could you have ran 6 pounds, which is lower then the factory gate pressure? Me thinks you'd have to have your units of measurement mixed up.

I'm the biggest looser atm for not getting my ass to the Dyno comp today Grrrrrrrr

I replace as much as I can, so when I need to play with it again, i don't have to go through working with rusted or stretched bolts and rounded nuts. - All gaskets should be OEM Nissan where possible - New manifold studs, and nuts (lube when torqueing to prevent over tightening, and use (I fabricate) metal tabs to bend over the nut to prevent loosening. - I too recommend investing some coin on race fittings and braid. Don’t be tempted with knock off Korean stuff, stick to Speedflow, Earls etc. Swivel fittings will help with setting up the pipe runs. - Don’t forget shield from heat, and abrasion. Small gauge braided line will cut through anything if left to rub on it long enough. - Unfortunately many people use race fittings simply cus they look shite hot, but I reckon they should be used to speeden up and secure, the disconnect / connecting of lines. They'll minimize leaks and of course last longer. Keep in mind these attributes and use them to improve Nissan's original design (my modifying mantra - Notice the way Nissan design the water feed for the turbos for instance. Its taken from the interior heater hose (A) (back of motor, drivers side firewall) comes round passenger side, round front of motor and empties on nipple near thermostat (B) In between those two points, waters "T'd" off for the turbos. Clearly this was designed so that water flowing through the lines that run close to the manifold doesn’t get heated up while waiting to go through the turbo; there’s a continued loop of coolant, always providing the cartridges at "close to" engine temp. - You'll notice the pain and hassle of removing perished rubber hoses, dodgey wire and compression clamps off; replace hoses and fit good quality worm driven clamps, and "T-bolt" clamps for larger bore pipes. (If I cant find a worm drive clamp im familiar with, I buy one, take it home and torque it till it skips a tooth... all aren't made equal) Out of habit, I double clamp critical pressure / vacuum hoses - Good time to degrease blowby oil from all piping (Degreaser soak then meth / Kero mix) Hope it helps

EVL-R33 - If not too much trouble, do you think you could get some good close up pictures of the pump IN / OUT and any serial numbers? Cheers

Glad i could help, double zip tie those lines on

Hey man, Nice work with the photo's, you should get some good responses. I cant help with specifics but.. Knock at idle - cylinder fill / chamber turbulence is so poor, even if you did get a proper knock, the peak pressure seen would be harmless. That non effect plus the car to car variance you pointed out, plus general mechanical noise, means i wouldnt worry too much about idle knock levels. Id go so far as to say that <20 is a non event. I set the idle speed as low as it will go before stalling (too low and the stepper valve wont catch the falling revs though) I find using a timing gun on a RB often gives sketchy results. Have you tried using the stray black wire up the back of the head for a reading? As for details on PFC particulars, paulr33's Resources are fantastic Hope Iv helped, Good Luck

Could be, but seeing as your saying your getting more flutter, i would think your BOV isn't releasing as fast / much air as once before; hence looking at the lines to both BOV and waste gate. You haven't mentioned any drop of power, change in engine characteristic?

If your keen, the pin outs will be in the service manual for your car.

Checked old / perished vacuum hoses to gate, BOV etc? GO THE FJ20DET!!!!

^^ thats very respectable! My 98K km motor was in the 150 range

Its the stock rod bolts i thought that limit output, with the ARP he could be OK. Would def look at bigger cams, and those Turbonetics GTK turbos look pretty promising Manual or Auto?

Good description. Its often a fine balancing act of "Jelly bean, candy coated and answering every noob Q like it was the first VS bluntly directing ppl to the correct A: and spending our collective time on current unanswered issue's" 2Cents

SPECCY FUEL MAY HAVE BUMPED THE HP UP, MAKEING IT HARDER TO GUESS HOW ON THE LIMIT YOU ARE!!! SPECCY FUEL WILL ALSO LIMIT THE CHANCE OF DET!!!!!!!!!! SOLID MOUNTINGS CAN DAMAGE HEARING CAUSING ONE TO SHOUT!!! On a quieter note, TO4, didn’t (aren’t you still) making much more the 350kw on a stock bottom end as well?

iv noticed this too. Such patience with the same Q asked again and again. I reckon hes using a template lol Just playing Ash GTST98 - If you wanna know it, 99% its been talked about

I too have some issue, gouges taking out of my cam lobes, below is a detailed photo, please HELP!! What could it be jk

Mine dropped a injector driver 2 years ago, had to send back to Japan.. just for info

RacePace did a RB30DETT in a nice white R33 GTR, i thought he was on SAU somewhere... it has a 1.5 up front. Could i be more vague, sorry