GeeTR

Gday Alex, Depends on your reason for the pump install. Is it because your running out of fuel, or “peace of mind”? If “peace of mind” replace with what ever pump, check the base fuel pressure, and you away – no need for any other changes. If have “fuel issues” your fuel flow is sagging under load (read: dropping pressure higher in the revs) then a pump will help you. If your actually running out of injector duty cycle, then you’ll need to get some bigger injectors (and the resulting re-tune that’s required) As for what pump. A 044 is definitely not a drop in. For the double the price you can get a Tomie or Nismo setup that’s “drop in” For the 044 you will need to take it somewhere and get the required fittings. Pirteck and Enzed are rarly able to help my friends and I, so recommend “Aus Hose” in Fyshwick. You should figure out your future fuel requirements, as Walbro with built in one way valve, is easier to install, so im told. Im in the same boat. Either fit a 044 into tank, or keep it outside with a surge tank.. decisions. Hope this helps

Same dyno, with 10psi, cat back and pods gave me 214KW, with 12:1 AFR's 1bar with stock turbos is dicey. Look around this forum, stockers have popped on stock boost.

Drone is a resultant from harmonics down the length of the system. Proper resonator / muffler choice should eliminate drone in ANY pipe size. SMB are really popular in the rotary world, were a 3.5" system, comprising of SMB cat and muffler, bring 400hp turbo setups to legal limits, with no drone.

Close

Shuffling occurs on the inlet side, but there’s only a turbocharger separating intake and exhaust  Maybe having a balance pipe on the exhausts limits the chance of either turbo pushing more air then the other. It would kill the timing / separate pulses though. Noticed the new BMW twin turbo I6 doesn't have any exhaust balancing... and it just won international engine of the year. More common, is the balance pipe on the intake side, between AFM and comp covers.

Anthony, The rail does need to come off, but its like a 10 min job in your garage - seriously I had the same issue. Your most likely either leaking from the o-ring (rubber seal on top of injector <> rail), insulator (rubber seal between injector <> plenum) or the small plastic molded 'indent' in the side of the yellow plastic on the head of the injector. Use some brake cleaner and spray where you think the leaks are. Look closely for fuel leakage. 1) If its the injectors themselves, use araldite to plug the indents, don’t be shy. 2) If o-ring / insulators, buy new OEM from Nissan, they're pretty cheap. Many, (inc me) have had after market, non standard seals not … well, seal properly. Its Lego stuff, let me know if you need a hand o_0 M

Ripped past a Green R33 on Sutton road, heading out to Wamboin. He/she was part of a 4 car convoy, with some Ski bunnies at the lead, that were troddleing at 80 clicks. Think i had "33" or "SKY" on the number plates.

+1 !! Spotted silver GTR with mesh type alloys and a single interior gauge, outside the "gurly cardio" part of Southern Cross gym thought "this looks like the BNR32 in that Hill Climb vid" Figured you were ripping out some Swiss Ball sit ups or what have you.

You could have some luck in the Skyline service manual available on this forum

Hooraaaa!!

Good gracious, theres been a new "12v F.pump" thread every week for the last month

Not to start rumors, but they've definitely been seen, to have moved shop. Not sure where they are now 0_o oh dear

This should work fine. Its not liquid or high pressure, just hot'ish air at no more then a few bar.

PicsOrBan

Haha, Awesome Lucky Man

Theres a person on here who had this exact thing happen. Rev limiter launches, and all the shock loading shattered the N1 oil pump drive. (they are made stronger, and more brittle, theres a fair bit of talk about it on this forum) As for limiter action on a stock oil pump... I think its definitely worth extra coin.

I would suggest, that if the motor doesnt det / ping, it will take as much boost as your willing to give it.

Have you seen / felt before and after, or are you assuming? A back to back would be interesting. I would have thought running a pod filter right on the AFM would replicate the mesh's job. *thinks* wonder if pod setups would suffer these issues people talk of.

I searched around and couldn't find anything regarding this vibration. Are you referring to compressor reversion? Its been toted by many well known workshops and magazines that removing the mesh is one of the first mods one should do, if power was lost or drivability worsened, i think someone would have picked it up. There are many AFM's that don’t use mesh, WRX's are an example that come to mind. The flow is more even but the mesh in that example is a lot more restrictive, not sure if you can compare pushing a medium 784 times more dense then air with 3bar behind it, to a AFM

I try

Nissan recommend strongly against removing the mesh, leave it on. Theres a fine coating of Molybdenum, that scrubs the incoming dark matter out of the air. The dark matter can foul valve guides, pit compressor wheels and burn out mufflers prematurely. I knew a guy, who had a friend, who's battery ran flat with the headlights on in 5hours and 4mins... this was 29mins longer then another guy who had the mesh taken out. Does a positive ionic charge caused by the mesh make the battery last longer? "You be the judge"

^^ pricelessly, you'll prolly find the position between i.cooler and radiator is fine.

Not sure, will have to check when I get home, i "think" its the MAP sensor for the stock boost gauge. Technically you are correct, though the functions you suggest that require vacuum/boost, each have their the own needs. As you would know, sticking the boost line for your EBC on the FPR feed isn’t recommended. Using the boost like that goes to your charcoal canister for a gauge isn’t recommended either. You should get a good source straight from the outlet on the turbo compressor cover, running to your wastegate, with what ever you choose to control boost between. The balance tube, and the “vacuum block” only exists because of the multi throttle body’s, as its the closed throttle plates that are creating the vacuum; resulting in the plenum not being a vacuum source As you suggest, its only vacuum between the throttle plates and the intake valves, with the balance tube sampling each runner. Its that balance tube that’s your most direct, closest source of good vacuum (hence the nipple for FPR) Using the rear nipple (for the stock boost gauge map sensor, on the upper firewall i think) Would be a good place for your after market gauge / EBC feed. Exactly which one of those two metal pipes is for the brake booster, will have to wait till I get home. Think that’s all your questions

God no, thats not what im saying. Im telling you the OEM use for each. You can decide how to hook what up Use the stock nipple on the front of the balance tube to feed your FPR. Make this the shortest most direct tubing you can, to minimize any lag time between manifold pressure and the corresponding fuel pressure change. Stock FPR is bolted onto to the front of the fuel rail. Use the stock BOV feed for any after market BOV's. As i mentioned, if using twin turbos, you might has well use the stock piping. The to and from lines connect to the boost solinoid, near the injector ballast, on the drivers side strut tower. "Brake Booster" the cylinder looking thing, on the top left hand of the firewall (when looking into engine bay) with the brake fluid canister coming out of it. Some annotated pics would better help show us what your talking about yes. Ta

Bumple Skelson