GeeTR

First up, the service manual has all this information, I could describe each when I get home and check out all my pictures, but will go from top of head. The wastegate feeds actually come from the the turbo side of the engine bay. If you look around, the feeds from both turbo’s go into a Y pipe, which wraps round the back of the head, to the boost control solenoid, then back around the head, to another Y pipe and to the gate themselves. Place your gauge/ EBC feed here. The second photo you posted; the two larger hoses, looking like bull horns that point towards the head, go to the shared chamber that takes / give air to all the cylinders (due to multi throttle bodies) Hose on the right with perforated sheath is for the BOV’s. One of the metal pipes on left of the “vacuum block” as you call it, is for the brake booster. There’s a transmission vent in there somewhere too, that connects to the plenum and just hangs / points downwards. If you trace each of the lines it’s pretty easy to figure out what does what. If you get stuck on something specific, post back here. Hope this helps M

Nows the best time to start! Its just bumpers, some brackets, inner guard liner etc. Get stuck into it, just stick it all back together Prolly your family's arms and legs as well. Its the labor that kills you. Search this forum for some guides and inspiration. Might not be as hard as you think. Its just large scale Meccano

Odd, iv seen gates bench tested that open at XYZ boost, then when fitted. open at XYZ

Beat you to it Nismoid

RB25 sounds quiet similar to an RB26. I do have an assortment of quality pictures i can post (I.manifold / turbos off) if interested

more then half a decade old

Gday, Rem, its not so much the voltage, its the load carrying capacity of the wire. You'll find "13.8v" all over the shop, but stick a 600hp pump on it will drop. This is usually an issue with 32's, less so 33's. I and many others would suggest running some thick cable from engine bay to boot, so you have the ability to run the current required. Make it easier if you hook up an amp later on. Cubes has a good thread running on whats required >> Fuel Pump Direct Feed Rewire., 11.2v to 13.8 <<

This threads getting pretty harsh Id say it will be moderated shortly

You track the moving object with the lens, and a slower shutter rate blurs the moving images only (in this case the background)

Bugger, i cruised past and saw the signs, should have stopped in for a looksie

Champion I grew up and learnt how to drive 30clicks outa town. Also moved backed home to save some cash. Worked different night shifts, putting me on dodgy roads at all the wrong times. Have ran over a roos tail, glanced one, never hit one properly. So many close calls its insane. Was once at a 50 degree angle, sliding at 90km/h trying to avoid one with P plates in a stock excel. There are def some tricks. - Obvious, but pay attention when driving. I’m often moving briskly, which on an old road, needs a keen eye. Scan around corners as far as you can see, and on the straights, concentrate on your peripherals for movement and shape. If you keep darting your eyes around from possible roo like bush to bush, its harder to detect movement. The cones and rods that make up your retina are more sensitive to movement in the other regions of you eye, so let it work for you. - If you do see a roo, don’t fixate on it, as there are often more around that might have a higher chance of jumping in front of your stead. Make a decision on its “chance of jumping onto road” and move eyes on to check for others. - Diff size (age) act differently too. Its not really time/petrol economical to slow to a crawl every time you see one. Iv found generally larger ones eating, head down are ok, and don’t move much; it’s the younger ones by themselves that have a tendency to freak out and jump in front of you - BOV’s, Gates and just plain noisy exhausts spook them - ABS is wonderful

^^^ +1 Agree 100% - Accuracy, and they just happen to look shite hot I'm Y generation and mech lines running into the cabin don't "impressin me much" I've mentioned before, I have two mates with VDO gauges that have needed to be sent back due to massive inaccuracies. Their warranty support wasn't so crash hot either. I'm not going to bag them though, i guess statistically they both could have gotten two bad units, and they both could have spoken to a dude on his rag, and the courier could have lost the order Edit: They were worth the months of saving and im completely biased

Today must be "pick on Zertek day" Alas, no one died, it's just time and money

Ur avatar should be banned!!!

Its not the product, its an issue with old seals that have been removed and/or non Nissan ones.

Hrrrm strange. Any chance the pressure gauge used to set the 14psi on your bench test is faulty? If its the correct spring, it should indeed be cracking at 14psi

Source OEM o rings and insulators, many incl I, have had sealing issues

Its for the blocking of the return pipe (as ppl run them venting to atmosphere) Cheers

Be prepared to whimper a lot. Its subZero most mornings in winter. It was -7 one morning this week at mine. 3-4 weeks ago, there was 2" of snow on my car, so cold, the paint fell off my car like mummy dust... Ok ditto the dust comment.. its cold, and dry and im Swedish! The RTA pits are a lil harsh on imports, but its because the normal plod cops are very lax and cooperative in my interactions with them. If you look/act like a enthusiast, not a *** w_nker, F&F drifter, or P-plate Grand Prix racer, minor things like lowering, noise will be over looked. Compared to VIC we have it very well indeed. Welcome to ACT man, eyes peeled for a giant in a 33!

"GTR's at dyno days, are like lubricant at orgies..."

Not sure about a No2 nozzle in the rubber pipe of an R34 GTR at all. And rem, throttle body(s) I think I rem a story of ole Mr Donnan who knew a girl that picked up a R33 GTST, with another injector plumbed into the area you speak of, cross braced with lots of zip ties and a cordless drill trigger as a 12v modulator. Caught on fire if I remember. Off topic, wonder if the heat caused by the extra 100hp would be enough to drop a turbine wheel off… even at a 1bar boost limit. Zex make a clever computer controlled wet kit for around the 1K mark as well. Don’t get me wrong, im but a forum mechanic when it comes to the stuff but I thought No2 had to be post throttle plate, which on a GTR means multi nozzle, direct port, which bump the cost up a little. Those Puerto Ricans use 800hp worth of No2; the sky’s the limit. The max of your pump, inj, zhaust is all std info attainable from here. You need to let us know your plans with the stuff for a better answer.

Thats some bad luck man, I feel for you... but Is f_cking hilarious, thats completely outa this world. If not for the tragic surrounding details, im sure you'd find it in someones signature M

The crack must have been from a good year ?  You cant bore out a cast block? Sleeves don’t just slot into the cylinders, and then how are all the mating surfaces decked? The whole block has a LOT of work done to it between being cast and assembled. Iv never heard of someone nitriding the type of iron that a RB block is made from. I'm not sure how one sleeves a sleeve either. Oh gosh, im more confused then ever! hehehe Mafia - is this your R33 with W/M Injection? If so, how sad. RIP M

My english'ised comment ?^^? I'm not so sure about placement either. I would assume post cooler, so you know the temp of the oil going into the motor... but whats the point if its going in at 80c and when it finally hits the cam, crank etc journals, its 150c and breaking down? (I'm sure its unlikely where there are near by water jackets at a constant 90c or what not) *ponders*

Apologies, I thought the intended meaning of I.cooler > BOV > AFM was quiet obvious If i rem my physics correctly, a restriction in a pressure scenario, is less of a restriction then if so in a vacuum section (all other things equal of course) Plus, the slightly hotter air would flow around the AFM probe easier no? I have thought about this previously, and would suggest that the max air temp going past the AFM and into the plenum, wouldn’t be that much hotter then through the AFM of a stock setup on a 50degree day. If the density being read was an issue, wouldn’t it crop up in the stock setup, where the AFM in front of the turbo see's a greatly diff temp (density) then that, that enters the plenum? Hope this helps, these are my corrections to your theory that Ill believe until corrected