GeeTR

HAHA agreed >>

Nice and simple... but dammit, someone with patience should be hooking something sexy up, to a proper micro controller [ http://www.rev-ed.co.uk/picaxe/ ] or such. Agreed, your idea would smoothen the action of a full on/off setup. - M

Hey Prank Same issue i have, thought bout moving the BOV's, or replacing with one in the engine bay, but dont want the attn. Would be massively appreciated if you could share where you placed yours! - Michael

F*ck me rabid, these VIC laws sh*ite me to tears, Unf*cking G*d D*mm believable... *cough* Scuze

Sweeeet, yah when I finally got a PFC, the extra ignition wound into it down low, made it much meatier and responsive. The S14 made a paltry 190'ish@1bar due to the stock 10yr old coils breaking down. With the new turbo and usual pump, inj, FPR mods, we were hoping for 220-230'ish. Spitfires and a few weeks, we'll be back there

Hey Graham, Met you y.day at Autotech, how did your final runs go?! Outa interest, have you got a turbo back, or cat back zhaust? - M

Good advice, i would think HARD R&R would account for a LOT of power loss. ECU is doing all the work, would think this is the first consideration before doing a lot of mods. I saw a stockish S14 on NS.com making 187rwkw with your mods. Good luck bro - M

Interested in this thread for sure! SirRacer - *EDIT* Boost question answered... 20??? Good Chri$t Thats surely Cr*p. I plan to run that to make 350 on a 26 - M

Where's the dedication !!!? As mentioned there would have to be a crossing of wires. The spark would take a fair amount more then 12v to jump from the + to the body. That said, i don't think normal heatshrink is fuel proof ... im sure it wouldn't hurt leaving em exposed.

Yah, this is a little odd

Vote 1 for thread closure

On a BNR32, iv mounted it in the brake duct area, hard up against the passenger side, front wheel inner liner, and extended all three lines. Seems easy to mount, easy to stay legal - M

Just get in their with both hands, hahahaha lucky man M

Edited my Friday, non car related response M

Sorry, completely off topic, though its all bout combustion motors yeah? Found those video on a volume, thanks goodness for indexing >> http://www.vsmotor.no/en_videos.html - M

Its been covered a few times. Theres a fellow on here who set one up on his BNR32 recently, if he cares to raise his hand Multi stage pump, new sump, a reservoir with heater, and a butt load of speedflow fittings and lines. Its very popular on V8's. Check companies like Moroso and the likes in the US. - M

Drew, could you please do myself, SAU and the rest of the hipo auto community a favor and not throw that pump out, but try and get to the bottom of the failure? Link below to compare part# serial# with. >> http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=144402&hl= I'm HUGELY interested in this failure - Michael

G’day Andy, For the graph – even if you cant get the actually graph changed, can you find out what the right and left hand column is, and what UNIT of measurement its in? Surly for it to be useful to yourself or your tuner, one of you must know – at least then I can roughly translate it, as now, I’m clueless. I believe the wheel falls of due to excess heat, so limiting impeller RPM in the higher rev ranges would help… though still no safe guard, as they’ve still been known to fall off at your “low” 13 PSI setting. Water injection alone (without the usual winding of ignition and leaning of mixtures) would help I would think… but like my previous analogy, you can use both hands to cover em, but in reality that penalty ball is going to f-cking sting if it hits you Considering your selling the car, do you really wanna fork out for a replacement turbo, labor (if you ain’t handy with the brandy) and maybe a dud motor Id say two tahbins, originally meant for 2.5 on a 2.6 is going to be mighty laggy. Yah, I rem going through a German / Swedish (?) workshop site 6 months back, with a few 1000hp turbo V12 BMW’s. There’s a few 700HP E30’s here in Oz. I’ll rest on the fact, they are all RWD hehehe  - M

Melted no, chemically pitted & altered, possibly. Sand as mentioned then work your way up the abrasion levels, treating it like paint, ending with a fine wax polish.

Good son of rajab! WD40!? Please don't use WD40. I would personally avoid contact cleaner. Brake cleaner is designed to evapourate completley. Id spray a plate with it, let it dry and eat off of it If your AFM's hellah visually dirty, carby / throttle body would be best, as its unbelievably powerful at removing carbon deposits, but i would then use brake cleaner to wash it off. Shake the unit gently so most of it spits out, then place in warm spot (vertically on hot cam cover works well) to dry quickly. I would still be nervous using metho/kero. Rem, what ever you use once will work and prolly not hurt, but i cant imagine continual use of some of these options would be healthy... reason not to use oiled foam filters ha. Just my opinion. my 2 cents -M

Ouch, hope it doesn't cost you too much to replace man. Oil filter relocation kit, i believe, is a must on any Skyline (or any car for that matter) Makes its a 60 second job. Check below for instance, bolt one where the filter used to go, the other has the filter screw onto it, place it where you want. Anti seize on the thread (loctite make a product for instance) and a smear of oil on the filters rubber o ring makes it a lot easier for next time. - M

Good description lot of little bites when winding in lock, heading for the apex. Its also what makes the car feel so light when gradually moving into high speed corners i believe. M

Good son of rajab, you've traveled a long way my friend. For starters the "SuperFlow" dyno that you’ve used, had printed out a graph not many are familiar with, are you able to annotate back to English what the scales and values mean? Max Boost - It has been covered plenty of times, and usually comes down the size of ones gonads. BNR32 ceramic wheels, have been known to pop at 12psi, been known to go strong at 16psi+ for years; how yours will fair depends on age, condition, previous owner etc etc. If you cant afford any $$ hassles at the moment, i would stick to around 10psi (personally) AWD Loss - 20-25% for Engine >> RW loss, then maybe 4% for RWD >> AWD loss is I think, accepted. I rekon your package would be about 220-240 rwkw’s on a Ozzi dyno (Dyno dynamics) As for increasing power with std turbo’s… depends on how much extra your after. Anything worthwhile, your going to have to change them. Intercooler – Sorry bra, most ppl praise the stock GTR coolers, are you saying you’ve measured a .3bar restriction above 6000rpm? Sorry cant help with stock turbine compressor maps. Good luck man, hope you whoop many a Beema

BNR32 Dead stock bar, - PFC - Nismo AFM's - K&N's (dirty) - Trust PEII cat back (80mm) Cars been on stands in my garage for 5months with the following work (for power) back on road in 4months F.ck Knows - GT35XX, custom manifold, 45mm Ex gate - Blitz ID III - 3.5” zhaust from turbo to metal’cat (then PEII) - 044 in tank, dedicated +12v feed, twin feed rail, 700cc SARD’s, SARD FPR - Relocate battery to boot, full +12v feed to 044 - JUN cams Other - Ogura twin plate - HICAS lock bar, cooler loop, all lines removed - Battery relocate to boot - Coilovers - Defi's - Billet oil filer remount & cooler