GeeTR

Thanks Paul... but that'd mean selling my in box Nismo's - bugger

Hi All, Iv heard that mounting the AFM in the pipe as per >> "Light's" http://maataa0b.jeeran.com/DSC04126.JPG can be done, and works, there are just considerations like increased blow by on the hot wire etc, I got thinking though… I’d read Paul’s PFC site mentioning you can feed the signal from one O2 sensor into both inputs on the ECU. - So I was thinking, could I either fit two AFM’s in the IC piping, or run one, and feed the signal to BOTH inputs on the ECU? - Assuming that would work, im left with either trying to fit two AFMs in the piping, or running one 60mm (thinks) Nismo AFM. - There was an thread on here about cutting the hotwire out of a AFM and placing it in a larger pipe. I would think for the same amount of air, the unit would give a lower reading as its now moving a lot slower. Q: What do ppl think about mounting the guts of a Z32 (or a Nismo replacement, like me) into the 80mm pipe before the plenum, feed it to both AFM inputs on a PFC, then jimmy the AFM corrections with Datalogit. Any thoughts?  - M

I too, don't modify cars to hold records, i replace bits if they become inadequate or if they pose a RISK Compression numbers are mentioned a lot, hit the search button - Happy Mod'ing - M

I don't think you can purchase Ti donuts and other 45/90 degree pipes, thats why they "section" it where bends are needed, with lots of little sections cut and shut. Rofl, i wonder if it was done like that with stainless to fool people... how awful Top Secrete and others use the same technique with Ti on their engine bay piping, and just then, when looking for a picture, I noticed >> http://www.topsecretjpn.com/r34drag5.jpg I rem that car using piping that was discolored like normal Ti at a Jp AutoSaloon.. Now it's yellow *ponders* PS: Foznice - Ti is completely non-magnetic, test with a magnet for the truth.... - M

Thank Christ for your cut and dump, I was about to unleash some fury! "Sound Particles"?? FFS I have a Trust PEII cat back, and can vouch for their civility. Mines actually almost too quiet (although EPA tested it at 101dB, with a 107 pop when I backed off) Seriously, they are that quiet… my engine fans louder. There is such thing as “drone” my friend. Its quiet distinctive, and sounds far removed from ordinarily scaled “perceived sound level” Its when the gas going through the pipe, hits the units (as a whole system, including the pulsing exhaust valves) resonance frequency. On a response graph, of sound pressure of the entire freq spectrum, you’ll find a natural “blip” or a high point – that’s the resonance freq. Bass bandits take advantage of this by using a sample tone, that’s dead on the point to give a boost in pressure for competitions. It’s so annoying because the human ear picks up a 3dB increase as a perceived doubling in sound… so if your unlucky anough to have your resonance freq occur at 5th gear, 100km/h, when you hit that you’ll hear / feel a quiet distinctly LOUDER sound = that’s the drone ppl speak of. As its causes by sound wave lengths doubling up and super opposing“ I think the term is? Anyone know of top of their head? Beer Baron’s dead right, with zhaust material, thickness and design all playing a role in the resonance freq, exactly like any wind instrument. Anyway, that’s what old school “resonators” are for, trying to alter that point so it doesn’t occur in the normal operating exhaust gas speeds. A mate has only one muffler on a 550hp+ 13B BP turbo, and it does a good job, without drone. It’s a custom muffler from somewhere in Sydney I believe. Ill edit this post later

Good JEsUs! thats truly insane, makes me feel better about a short overheating stint my RB saw once

Bud, Anything is achievable with the right $$$. You can buy kits from various Japland / AU locations, shop or companies, or you can piece the parts list all together yourself. Hit this forums search key till your finger bleeds, and you near have an epileptic attack, then call one of the many engine builders spoken of on this forum about what you want. Hope this helps - Michael

I vote someone donate their steed for testing....

Here Here - its one thing to shuffle the heat to the radiator/oil cooler, but over effectiveness depends on then getting enough air through the unit. I think they are trick, as mounting suitably sized oil cooler in the front of a modern import like a Skyline can be difficult. - Michael

Hey Blur, Yah, i actually think the leak is / was from the plenum to TB gasket, as there’s some black discoloration on the matting surface, as well as a distinct lack of ppl on this forum hearing of the issue. My issue now is that I need to at least fix the seals i plucked outa the rear TB; that’s what these PBR seals where meant to fix. Ditto on reusing, i destroyed them getting em out. Thanks bud M

Bezerk32, Are you able to post any new results from this setup? very keen on any numbers / issues. Cheers!! Michael

This seems to be the only thread on this topic, so ill continue to update till its solved I went back to the place that could sell the non viton, similar shaped seal, Capital Bearings here in Fyshwick Canberra. PBR 12377- Unfortunately they are too tall by a good 3mm, are too tight a fit on the outside, and grip the spindle too tightly, im screwed on all fronts. You can see in one of my photos there’s actually a spring around the inside sealing surface. I’ve decided to leave the rest of the seals, just figure out a way to seal the ones, iv already played with. I was thinking some nylon rod in a lath, some grooves, some o-rings… There must be a seal somewhere that I can use, I might try overseas - M

Me too please!!! Have 10K worth of gear im putting on myself, though thought a shop would be a "worst case" scenario. I’m pretty sure i know the offenders, though can someone please PM me with the shop names, so my worst case, aint my head case - M

100% agree - power delivery through tahbin type, tuning and right foot position is one thing, but spring rate, shock valveing and tyre TYPE (compound, age, sidewall thickness, amount of wear) play a mighty role M

Bah, pack of gurls! =) There’s a risk, but in reality if you seal the sensor to the pipe well ( careful not to use any noxious adhesives that will eat the PCB) and tune it properly, ( piggy back, FC) it would be well impressive to get it working. Perfect for the budget conscious. That said, for $300 there’s no way i would risk my motor M

GTR wannabe! ha jk

Above your head? all air is 1psi? hehehehe Friday night drinky poo's? jah prolly mean 1bar, the rough sea level atmospheric pressure yes

Pics added - Cheers

edit - double

big ole can of WD40

Nice thread dude, though i think you'll find theres a few minor differances between the the jaycar and Tech edge setup - M

heheheh you never "tested" your new boost gauge? ehehehe

.... whoops... i need to type faster M

As per Paul’s comment, Id say it trims the output from your AFM, so you can effectively wind some of the fuel out of it... put there by the ECU going R&R when your mods caused it to pull more air. - Michael

Iv always thought a simple kit like the ones on JustJap would do (though you’d have to add a oilstat) - Mocal - a brit company making a LOT of stuff - Theres the cast take off’s from Revo RaceGear then just add a qual cooler, sereck or what ever. Theres a few options around, most cheaper then buying a jap name brand. That said adding a cooler / remote filter can be one of those simple things, you f*ck up and pop a motor doing. So please take cost, build quality etc all into consideration. If your not comfortable with making up lines, Earls, Speedflow Aeroquip etc, then call the enzed guy. As for locations on a R34, - between IC and radiator is often used spot - in one of the front brake ducts ( drivers side) though not sure if that area vents to the wheel cavity or not [cross flow] - low, under the radiator… but then that’s old rotary style, and seems a little risky for track use etc. Tis like having your testicals mounted below your knees “they bound to take a knock” – a bash plate or something could help. - further underneath he car, near the gear box? Cheers M