GeeTR

This threads, a whole heap of wtf. BLKR34GTT - please explain in more detail, what the issue is. This might be better in the drivetrain section. Teng - traction control and LSD's are very different, 20sec web search will provide all.

My advice would be to not pump some holes in your car based on comments made by players on teh interwebs. Get under the car yourself, inspect where the holes would protrude, drill then use a rust preventer, or commonly available automotive "cavity wax" Use washers to spread the load and nylon nuts (or loctite)... a 1kg unit will put a nice dent in your head if it comes adrift in an accident.

?... If you accidentally ran the battery flat, it'd get reset anyway, so i fail to see the disadvantage of just doing it. To answer your question with the one word answer you demanded though... No I personally wouldn't bother.

DD units have the retarder unit in the front roller only I believe. 80% of cars i see tuned rise up onto the single, front roller anyway when strapped. Soft tires with low pressure are "supposed" to sap power, but 35+ rwkw's? Hrrrrm... mystery

Car manufactures fitting them, i think is more to do with noise... more then turbo health. I too have a handful of anti BOV mates with 340+rwkw rota's... non with turbo issues. Personally for me, a large framed turbo makes too much noise without a BOV. If a type R is too small and you don't want two of them, give the Vortech units a look in.

haha, a "hum?" Dozens of moons ago, I had a hum when the motor was partially decelerating. Say 8k RPM and back off... It ended up being the aftermarket ECU was intermittently dropping an injector driver. If you'd been giving it a hard time, maybe its just uneven wear (therefore balance) on the clutch friction pads... thats a grade A stab in the dark though Better description of location, and or a dyno run with mates listening would be better.

Lol, embarrassingly, i know this feeling well

Stock is good for all situations bar wet shoes

Damn, thats an impressive photo !!

R33 crank has a full width oil pump drive, that match's the gear set. You can get a collar from JUN / others, or locally made, thats then pressed onto your BNR32 crank. Considering the cost, it must 100% be done. Popular topic on SAU. Rods are generally fine to 400rwkw+, the bolts can fail though. IMO, bolts are there to keep the rod caps on and are really only subjected to load from the rod / piston inertial weight. I'd think even stock rod bolts should last if not over revved (increased inertia)

This thread has become immensely entertaining These are my fav bits... completely nonsensical... Really, the best bit, is one guy with 3 posts, agreeing with another 3 poster... both of which joined 1 day apart... *cough* IP check

No debate, they need to be plumbed back, but how does the turbos positioning effect it? An example that comes to mind is a famous dark metallic blue Perth 10sec BNR32 with a Z and OEM BOV's.

This has been my experience. Have heard of half a dozen noisy setups using blue Gates belts; slacken them off a bit and they are fine. As for whats best, OEM is best in all but the most hardcore setups imo. Oh, and search

My cents are, they're prolly old sensors, as they're both the same rough shape, just 2 is more exaggerate (vice versa) Though to diagnose, assuming sensor 2 is at the back; could you trim / richen up the last 3 cyls to check for an effect on knock?

Agreed. The cost too atm, makes it a no brainer. Hooking the OEM GTR ones up, takes up a lot of room unfortunately.

You failed... horrendously Jk - conrgrats on the find

Gotcha Iv been working in the same area recently with a broken ankle, not fun. Jack the whole rear up, stick on stands, which'll give full access.

Hrrmm, duno bout it being the wheel speed sensor, the wheel would come pretty close there. R32's I know, run the sensor wire through the back side (firewall side) of the strut tower... the driver side one being RIGHT where you'd want to place an ext gate Stick your head in the front wheel well...

Sit the hose in hot water, shake dry'ish before install.

^^ LoL! I watched that last night, classic.

I coulda swore OP had another thread about this

No offense, but how do you intend to install this s.tank without getting under the car? Jump under, and all will be reveled, I promise.

To be fair, it doesn't take wheelspin to direct torque to the front. Any real right pedal movement evokes a decent movement on the gauge.

I believe @ ~200rwkw, id say around ~5-15kw... ~5-10%, not much diff at all. pun intended

Doing the PFC "20min idle load" thingo on a new motor wouldn't be too smart. Maybe use the Mines?