GeeTR

Doubled up

Id say it’s significantly less then 1psi. I wrapped my lips round it ( spare the jokes plz) last night and was able to close it with a very gentle vacuum.

... i think you'll find NA motors, require and manage back pressure to attain some level of reversion pulse tuning... with exactors. What bout NA rota's, 2 strokes and expansion chambers... M

Cheers everyone for you input... how a simple component upgrade became soo much more difficult hehe Im not trusting a 15yo stock GTR pump to maintain pressure for my engine. I know original Bosch equipment is (was?) good, im not disputing that. My original Q: was a) do normal OEM 044's have a rattle when shook side to side.. along one plane of direction [as per attached pic] and b) how could i tell orig from a CCC (cheap Chinese copy) I guess im looking for someone who has a spare 044 sitting around, and a digi camera. Again, thanks for all your input and thoughts… except you Abo-Bob! hah JK I’m aware to the fact that a particular devices manufacturing quality could drop, this happens, id just like to know now, so I can start hoiking PCP for a >> http://www.sx-performance.com/pumps%20(4%20kinds).jpg ps - i'll post some detailed photos of mine tonight Cheers M

... assuming he doesnt intend to use a oilstat

me thinks ring blow by would be minimal to nothing at idle, and its not pulling against a random leak; rather the other opening is between the AFM and turbo… = already metered and between two vacuums. Don’t get me wrong, I know wot your saying, and perhaps I was a little quick but the PCV valve in my rb26 is by default open, positive pressure in the intake m.fold closes it. I guess teh Q: is, what pressure difference either side of the PCV valve is required for it to close and when does this happen, rpm load etc - my 2 cents M

Hey Bob, what makes you say "shittier and shittier" ?? Did you buy your GTR pump new? Im planning to use mine orig as a lift pump Might have to run 4 Walbro's in parallel =)

Hey Andrew, outa interest, what IS the difference between a sender and sensor?

Yah, the shape, makes it looks like it sposed to go between the headlights. Bah, go the locally made, semmingly better designed Ozzi option >> http://are.com.au/products/oilcoolers.htm M

Hi All, Have a little worry, I’m hoping some of yall can help me with. I purchased two new Bosch 044’s, and they make a funny rattling sound when shook the correct way. Attached is a annotated diagram from some Bosch marketing material I found. I’m looking for people who have a unit handy they can shake around. On the diagram you can see that you need to move it from side to side on the correct plane. Note: that if you shake length ways there’s a heavy “thonk thonk” which is, I assume just normal motor shaft / stator hysteresis. The extra noise I have, just sounds like a small piece of plastic or metal rattling around. I initially though I dropped something into the pump until I realised the un-opened unit had the same noise. This is stressing me out something wicked, as I got the pump for flow, but mainly to limit the chance of the old one dieing on the dyno !pop! Any thoughts, suggestions, experience would be massively useful Thanks! M Edited - Pump pics attached

Dont mean to go off topic, but I heard that the stock 26 camshaft cap bolts dont like being tourqed down again and again. ARP do make CS cap bolts, they just dont list anything for Nissans. Im fitting 260 poncams, and dont intend on touching springs, retainers etc. Do many people reccomend replacing these bolts with AM parts, or is OEM fine? Many thanks! M

Not sure exactly how its setup on a RB25, but the concepts are all similar. I assume the breather is at the top, as hot blow by gases rise. There are two processes to be aware of. - The crankcase / upper head area shares its space, via a hose to just in front of the turbo, so there’s a constant vacuum pulling vapors into the engine. Older engines under load can pull a lot of vapor into the motor, increasing detonation and hindering performance. Hence most people disconnecting this. - The crankcase / upper head area also shares its space with the intake plenum via one way PCV valve, which i believe works in the opposite way then what dead32 described. Its under most driving conditions, ( idle, partial throttle, cruise) that the valve is open, ingesting fumes (specially on high RPM over run) then on positive pressure, the valve closes, so as not to pressurize the crankcase. Hope this helps clarify - there’s 101 articles on this forum regarding bloody oil / air separators. Almost every setup imaginable has been spoken of, with diagrams, pictures, Visio diagrams all here to help you. M

No, your dead right, but we arent talking when you completley back off, this is when you've got a decent amount of boost going, then back off quickly, just a little bit, must be around 10mm, and you hear it. From memory you had to then match the further releasing of the peddle 'curve' with the sound to make it go for longer Hope that makes sense

Hahahah "alternate" - thats it, your spot on. I had a dead stock bnr32 with a cat back and pods. When driving, u can still get it to flutter by backing off the right amount and holding the throttle still for a while. When over 3500-4000k rpm u can get the two (alternating) tones, that then trail off, like a 'teeter totter' kinda sound? =) I assume your sort of catching the BOV's out, with the right combinating in the intake track and plenum, they dont open and you get some reversion. As for the two tone thing, Iv never heard it on anything bar GTR's M

If they are a like plastic bolt shaped thing, which you then thread a plastic screw down the center, which splays out... they can be picked up from Nissan as a spare. Cheers M

Yup, that’s what i figured, hence i asked if any one had experience using normal 2pack paint on cam covers, and issues with heat around the exhaust side. People color match body to other parts all the time, cam covers, inlets, what ever, i was wondering if its literally the SAME paint as used on the outside body, or if they are mixing something with it to make it more robust.. or using a different clear Cheers all

Can anyone tell me, isn’t 2pack what most normal OEM paint is? I want to paint my cam covers in a color that comes on a Subaru, but don’t know if it would take the heat of the engine bay? Does a hardener or special type of clear coat need to be used? Any help would be appreciated - M

Its like standing with your mates at the local go-kart track, edible undies on your head, helmet clutched, hopping from foot to foot checking each kart as is pulls into the pits, “which one has brakes that work and the least shagged single thumper” Theres too many factors to consider regarding the history and previous owners of the car. Had a few examples of ppl running a bar and a half… congrats, I figure it’s a measure of time before selling a kidney becomes choice

Thems fiiightin words!

Hey Turbo87 Unfortunately I think you’ll find the smarts of a OEM knock system are in the micro controller, not the sensor. The sensor is similar to a microphone, though with a heavy weighted center pole section instead of a delicate mylar cone. Vibrations go through the sensor and shake the center piece causing current fluctuations through the coil blah blah. The sensor output is then read by a micro controller which is able to remove normal engine vibrations and concentrate on the larger knock events. Its that algorithm that’s the key, and the reason why EMS don’t supply the ability with their ECU’s. Your not f*cked yet, there’s a few options. I rem a Zoom mag back in high school with a red turbo 240Z, back when it was still published on matt, mostly black and white paper had an article about using the decoder from a Delco? >> http://www.linkecu.com/products/AncillaryDevices/KnockBlock This mob known for ECUs’ that catch on fire ( recent HiOctane vid) have been making systems for years >> http://www.techedge.com.au/ If your already making the hardware to heat / control and decipher wide band sensors for the tuning industry, one could guess where the next avenue for development would be – stay tuned Lately I have a habit of spewing coffee fueled Hi-Po auto utopia at the end of my forum posts, this time I gota grip Hope this helps buddy Michael

Seriously, no offence dude, but to title a thread "Spraying Co2 directing into Airintake Pipe" then spend 10mins writing a question, asking, will it hurt your engine, will it effect tuning… should be a sign within itself. All the systems you mention for removing intake charge temp, work in vastly different ways, and can cause some fairly catastrophic results; its not lego, and you cant mix and match. I would suggest - decide your intended end results, as lower intake temps wont automatically mean more power, if your fueling / ignition system doesn’t take advantage of it. - research your options, until you understand the physics of each - design develop and document a system, posting specific questions as you go, then post the results for us all to read!!! Cheers M

Cubes! your NS.com post today? ouch hahah

Thank god I found this translator! >> http://www.billism.com/eng_to_ebon_trans.html * crouches down, grabs a little crotch and waves arms around * Sorry buddy, gots never felt a gt28r on RB20 long live da dose - aww yea foo.

Ha me neither, but it’s that interaction that drives a (most) electrical motors... so must be same principle reversed!

I think most of the "load" the engine sees, in these high draining conditions is between the windings and magnets themselves; not the the increased idle RPM from the idle control stepper.