GeeTR

Well I still reckon some bored young aspiring mech / elec uni eng, needs to rig an electrical water pump, thermo and some form of PIC. Have some fun playing around with cooling, assuming both units down mind less the 12v

I don’t know about “has nothing to do” Boost pressure behind the inlet valve would play it’s role, as it’s a measure of a combustible gaseous mixture that then has a proportional relation to peak cylinder pressure, a precursor to the exhaust temps you mention, with both of these being wot promotes detonation. There’s no set AF / Boost though I would think there’s an optimum AF [stoch] then a) as much headroom u wanna add in case of wotever, bad fuel, hot day, good hook up, dieing f.pump and b) tweaking for times of extra requirement like peak torque or if the setup is prone to deto at higher RPM etc. Requires ratios for your setup, is part of what you pay your tuner for. My 7c - M

Hey SK, Sorry, I meant using a hobbes to trigger a IC water sprayer. Yah, I woulda thought stealing the output from the EBC’s MAP sensor woulda been fraught with danger, I would like to keep the smoke in. Would never dare add volume to the tubing that goes between collector feed and FPR Now I must learn how the extra tables Paul spoke of , work their way into tunning. Cheers everyone - M

Niiiice Thanks Paul- "FC Guru" -R33 !!!! - M

Rice NAZI's at it again! Rofl - jokes I bought a Blitz SBC iD III EBC, cus its got some massive solenoids, the twin unit is at least 6 times larger and heavier, I figure this gives the "zero gate creep" feature someone mentioned, plus better control at higher pressure levels. Iv read stories bout killer boost spiking issues with other units…Greddy, Apexi etc. I agree with Paul, i don’t want to be messing with sh1t, thats WHY i spent some $$ on a half decent EBC now. If i change the ECU, im not in this position, trying to find something to control boost again, boost will always be controlled by the unit regardless of whats happening around it. A few Hobbes switches should fix the "lost output" on the FC, you just loose any fancy look up table trigger the FC & Datalogit mighta had, im not sure. SydneyKid: These "enabled look up tables" what do they control, and are they simply enabled by a MAP sensor being connected to the FC? …. I got a bad feeling this threads guna make me feel like a ricer. Come on, whats some extra carbs in a day Ta - M

.. and a cat, and make it legal'ish hehe

Yah, any news!?

Have many people on this forum tried getting tricky and using one of those MrTurbos cores? This guy, in Sydney i think, makes CNC cut watercooled ballbearing cores and shafts, which give you almost any choice of turbine and compressor combo!! I saw some scary 1500hp setups using his cores, advertised in an American sports compact mag few weeks ago as well. I know of at least one person lurking on these forums with one, are there any others? What did you use, how did I fair compared against stock unit? - M

Craved, yah the breather from the tank is the "in" i refer to. What if i run the tubing high first, like up the firewall, thats a fair deal higher then the filler kneck, where i believe the tank breather comes from.

I too am keen on info regarding fast spooling 900hp single jobbies What about a 700hp setup, and 200hp shot of No2 M

Hey Waza, I’m thinking bout mounting it underneath the corner of the engine bay, to sit in front of the passenger side wheel plastic. Close to the location of the bovs but other side. I figure there’s something glaringly obvious stopping people, as every R32 iv seen either leaves it in the stock location, or ditches it altogether to make room for the PS reservoir re-position. So far I’m thinking that there’s a in, out and a trigger, and that if its just vapor, then I should be ok.

I think you guys answered why I smell it only when windows down, and with a full tank of gas around corners... ha my cap Cheers

Bumpidy? 19 views in almost 12 hours, hrmm, i think i need this moved to the Forced Induction thread - bugger

haha priceless, I wasnt aware "QUIBBLE" existed, but "flux capictor' was already taken. - M

qoibble (qoi- bble) 1 - deceptive, misleading, or false nature; erroneousness, created on a Friday to poke fun. Sorry man, I was just joking, i have no f'n clue what that is Try downloading work shop manual for the car. Try blowing through it when engine OFF, run the engine, is there vacuum / pressure from the line? From the location you took it from... the pipe would see mostly high pressure, not vacuum.. *thinks* Good luck Cheers - M

Hey Andy, It’s the qoibble relief line, and plays a key role in relieveing pressure from the qoibble pump behind the dash. Be careful what you plug it up with, removing the dash is a real nuisance. Hope this helps M

Yay, acceptance! Amen cubes Dammit, have 6:30am start, but I have this notion of controlling water temp accurately and quickly to use as another factor you could control, stuck in my head- argh. I know Bemma and others have been doing it for a while on the specy'r models. Surely just a stepper motor on the stock thermostate or a custom stepper’d valve wouldn’t be hard. Do that multi head coolant bleed setup thingo which is popular of late... you could spend many a weekend tweaking.. if only the time and money *sigh* - M

I’m surprised no one has brought up the mass the fan adds to the rotational mass of the engine! From this thread and a few freinds lecky fan attempts I’m understanding that a shrouded, setup, either moded stock one, or custom, f.glass, sheet alloy'd 16" thermo would do.... but i cant STAND that weighted free revving feeling and EH Falcon engine fan noise of a skyline! Lighter flywheel would fix some of it I guess. Be interesting to check the physical tourqe loadings that a alternator puts on the engine from normal electronics + 10AMP thermo.. and how that compares to the stock locked up engine clutch fan; truley see witch one costs more power, over the cruising, WOT etc that makes up fast street / track running. In all honesty I would try v.hard to make a thermo work properly due to engine response and noise soley, flame away !! I believe there’s a array of simple jaycar kits, mechanically switched, or electronic that you could use. Could get fancy and use a PICAXE to control both thermo and electronic water pump, tricky closed loop, solenoid on the thermostat to run a cooler water temp, read: head temp when in high boost mode, and then a higher more emission friendly temp when cruising. Just my way of adding complexity & possibility to a simple thread - sorry - M

Hey all, I need to move the charcoal canister in a BNR32. I’m trying to think it over in my head, and i cant imagine it would harm its operation if i dropped it 4" down. Any one? Either it hasn’t come up here, or i cant use search to save myself Actually, if someone can describe, or picture'ise how the three lines connected to the black cylinder work in purging gas tank vapor into the shared "collector" thing on vacuum, that'd be swell I can only guess (1) ones from the tank, (2) another from the valve to the collector, (3) the last maybe triggers the valve to vent the (2) to the engine under vacuum / over run. Any help would be appreciated! - M

Thanks Godzilla, i thought i was going crazy! "turbo heating air due to radiant"

Thanks Guilt-Toy. Plate with holes yah, but then at low vehicles speeds, you’ve lost a lot of the benefit hrmm *ponders* Ronin - true, having more air flow around the filter would theoretically mean its going to see more dirty air… or does it. A engine bay exposed filter would have a large amount of air around it as well i woulda thought. Through the front bars largest opening, between headlights, through the radiator, off the firewall, then prolly straight down underneath the car… “Would” a boxed, and ducted pod see more air flow then a pod exposed in the engine bay at 100km/h? Dunno “Boxing up the Duct” > I think there’s a little confusion as well. I’m talking about boxing the filters in a GTR engine bay, so from the passenger strut tower all the way forward to where the charcoal canister is (was) Put a 4” hole ( where the battery tray is on the other side.. but of course, we are talking the passenger side here) that would be big enough to force most of the air through the stock bar vent, into that boxed area. Guilt-Toy, i belive is moving the actual filter to the front bar. I’m thinking I can remove some of this heat soak, you mention, by having the box sealed 100% and high density foaming every surface inside. Moot maybe, but I still wonder, when I hold a 60 degree coffee in a cup made from 3-4mm of polystyrene. Please don’t misjudge my enthusiasm, I think its documented, and fairly common sense how to get around the problem, tojust make it simply "work" I’m just tongue in cheek interested in how one would make the perfect setup if one had time - M

Id say, its not so much that air being rammed into a inlet system is bad, its just, the engine as a complete unit inside the car, was tuned on a dyno with a certain pressure in front of the turbo mouth, at a certain altitude, with certain fuel etc… so EVER changing those parameters is going funk with things; someone here actually measured the difference in AFM outputs with the engine off, rolling down the road! - gonads of tungsten. You’d think if you TUNED the car with that extra pressure it would be fine. Hahah how bout a MAP sensor near the AFM to trim output as pressure goes up? Or directly trim the AFM output voltage as wheel speed sensor output rises lol. Wait, that might not be so hard, don’t stock ECU’s register relative pressure / altitude every time you start your car to compensate? Hrmmm. Make me wonder how other groups of people have gotten around the issue. Ninja 500’s with those ram air snorkels at the front, GTHO’s with “shakers”. Hrm maybe carbs aren’t effected soo much, as fuel delivery is based on air speed over a venturi; with the engine only swallowing a certain amount of air. Wonder if a jet engine gets this compressor reversion… jk Troy a slightly unsealed box would probably suit best, biggest disadvantage being some warm air creep into it, when the vehicles still, hrmm. Wooah, sorry, mental gibberish, too much strong coffee! - Michael

.. tension, i always was the one to break it by saying something... *shuffle - cough*

Interesting indeed’ally, iv been playing around with how im going to make a CAI for a BNR32 running a single turbo and twin AFM’s. I’ll be pushing most of the air that goes into the passenger side front bar vent into a effectively sealed box containing the filters. My thinking gets me as far as, if it’s the speed of the air going into the vent, that creates a higher then normal (read, higher then the car was tuned) pressure at the turbo mouth then I could as easily vent air off at the air box. I reckon a large 250x250mm spring load flap, on top of the CAI would relieve enough air at higher vehicles speeds to prevent the pressure spike AFM double reado thingo. Seems safer then one way valve, introduces another possible fail point. All this, and a cossie bonnet vent over the CAI, (mounted the right way :0 ) that seals hard against the bonnet might do. I guess I could record AFM outputs, injector times, some air box pressure readings, switch on the flap lid cross match vehicle speeds blah blah and write a super nerdy write up… but could one be f*ked  Hahahaha - M

If your current setup is a flow restriction, you'll make a little more power. If it manages to drop you inlet temps as well, you'll make a little more power; though a larger unit could suffer worse heat soak in summer, idling etc. From what i hear a stock GTR IC is a damm good unit, so unless its a physical airflow restriction, leave it. Find this out by measuring any back pressure, by checking pressure before and after IC. Cheers M