GeeTR

Hey There, Many years ago, Zoom did an article on using the chipset from a commodore ( Delco?) to decipher knocks from the output of the sensor. It was a looong time ago, back when the pages were matt and had little colour. Sorry cant me more help - M

Ha! I had water I my boot too! I just removed, popped two holes in either end ( underneath where it contacts the boot, so I see no problem) and pressurized the thing with an air gun. At LEAST a liter of water came out. My friends have many theories, from a crane operator dropping my car into Tokyo bay while maneuvering it onto a boat, to consistent cleaning with a high pressure gurney. Would love to know… maybe one for Dr Karl. - M

AHAHAHAHAHAH dammm Sorry, I dont mean to be mean. Clutch smoke is mega acrid, quiet potent. Dun stress. You musta been more then "tired" though =) - M

Hey, I just tried cutting all the diagrams you need from the workshop manual, but the forum didn’t like the 2MB jpeg. Search this site, there is a guy hosting all the manuals you need. When i get home, I'll give it another go. - M

Hey There, Not sure if this is what your looking for but... ff

anyone? surely

I was going to start a thread, but this seems close enough =) AFM1 on my 32GTR looses half its voltage compared to AFM2, then clicks back to normal. I reckon if I’m going to replace one, I should upgrade both. I have a couple channels of thought here, 1] Does the Z32 flow a worth while more then the stock ones? I can get replacements for 180 each, and Z32’s for 300 each; can anyone with experience tell me when ( ie, mods boost, RWKW) does a RB26 run them out of useful resolution? 2] The above is second hand, and don’t you HATE spending money on sh1te that breaks. So I have been looking at new prices *gulp* for Z32’s from Nissan and the Nismo branded AFM’s greenline.jp quote “One air flow meter. Twin NISMO AFM setup: 2400kg/h (Approx. 775ps). Twin standard AFM setup: 1400kg/h (450ps). Requires ECU retune.” Nismo say 775ps ( (775/1.34=578kw) x .70=405rwkw), SydneyKid (511rwkw) and then R31Nismoid 369rwkw on a SINGLE. I assume The 369rwkw could have been from PFC AFM reference voltage and fuel map tweaking, with SK’s 511 seems more likely, but my question is, when do people hit their Z32’s, Nismo’s or stock 26/25’s voltage limit? RWKW would be helpful too. Any help would be massively appreciated!!! - RKaida

Need new rota's though Im interested for a watch for sure! Sump: been told it should be ok, apart from the first long right hander. - M

Hey, I missed out on the last battery deal by days, my name is down with Jerry for a a battery. So i guess that makes 3 ! Sweet - M

Is there a picture of the cooler, or are these piping kits only? - Rgrds M

Whats the max boost you want to run? Keep in mind the further from 7pounds you run, the harder the EBC will find it.

Sup, If your looking for factory mods and 200rwkw's get you going, then you could look no further then the 33. Newer, better interior, less likley to break etc. Though do you wanna buy a car that just "keeps you happy" or do you want to grow into the car, Neeed that extra power, WANT that 4WD corner exit. =) - Michael

GTaaargh, Any luck with finding your flat spot? - M

Hey All, I suffer the seemingly common "Oil pressure drops almost to 0, turn off / on, all is well" syndrome that many here have witnessed. I understand it can be from dirty / faulty oil pressure sender or dodgy stock gauge. I will be cleaning the sender this weekend, though have been quoted $260.97 from Nissan !?!?!? So my question is, where do you guys buy parts from? Surely I don’t have to fork out 260 for a sender? Can I use one from a RB30 etc? I have a strange grinding noise from the front of my engine that sounds like a bearing, and considering its MUCH louder in the mornings, has led me to believe it could be the oil pump ( with the small 1st gen RB26 collar) but I'll leave that for another thread. Any help would be massively appreciated!!!! - M

Damm TT's! I fear even adding to thread like this for fear or retrobution from yall hardcore racers Ha! Ma only two cents, is that most of the "auto" ones ( i think) listen for a pulse on the +12v indicating fireing of coils. Most then have a facility to fine tune. So you hold the RPM at a specific point, it listens to the noise, then it multiplies this, so it knows the rough RPM at a point in time.. without the need of a feed of another signal. - M

Godzilla32, I have the same rattle. Its like 3 quick medium *tink tink tink* Hope its not terminal - M

Hey, If the car was running ok on 10pounds, then it automatically means your mapped to run any boost / air flow condition, between vacuum and 10pounds. Godzilla32's R is fine due to the over exuberant fueling from the stock Nissan ECU, simply scaling all the values ... I would have thought. =) M

nF, Where did you hear this?

Hey all, Noticed today that my power steering belt had seemingly quickly deteriorated ( a few weeks since I last would have noticed) and now was almost split in half, and almost falling off. Replacement from Repco - $30.00 I wasted a lot of time on this, and thought how much a quick guide would of helped! Jacking the car isn’t required as you only need a few inch’s of height. I parked my front wheels on some pavers. You need to gain access to 3 bolts, 1] The main pivot bolt for the pump 2] The slide locator 3] The long bolt or “tensioner” rod. - Remove air filters ( std box if u have that) and AFM’s. Remove plastic under tray. - The only tricky bit is having to line up one of the two holes in the power steering pulley with the bolt that the whole pump pivots on, as turning the engine is difficult. I just cut the old belt off; loosen bolt. - Gaining access to the long ( 4 or 5 inch) bolt underneath the pump that’s used for tensioning, is done from the side, right where the AFM for the front turbo went; loosen bolt about 1.5-2 inch’s. - From underneath the car, the long bolt you just loosened?, you can see goes through a threaded slider, used to push the pump away from the engine, when setting belt tension level; loosen this so that the pump will pivot. - I couldn’t figure out a way to safely lever the pump in towards the engine, so from underneath I used a short breaker bar gently against the lower AC pulley to move the PS pump inwards. - Now simply fit new belt, (making sure to do so, with the hole in the pulley lined up, so that u can gain access to the pivot bolt) tension the long bolt, Nissan say, with a Poly V – low main tenance belt, should have 8-10mm of deflection when loaded with 10kg. Secure the bolt on the slider, tighten the main pivot bolt and replace intake and under tray :run: Thanks Hope this helps.

Veeery interested, Cough up GoldSpank! - M

True inspiration! Nicce Work!

Hey, All good stuff, I might be outa line, though i dont like the idea of running the twin pumps for push. Not common maybe, but if a relay or pump stops wont u get a massive lean out, instead of a quick lowering of fuel pressure from a dead single? thanks

LoL, Phhhft my whole dash squeaks when cold, quiet embarrassing, I should rip it out and check... I hate dash's. -M

R33's are the same as R32's I believe, with double wishbones... a top mount camber slide wont work. Adjustable arms or camber pins are the way. :run: - M

Can any one explain, do you place the pineapples, below or above for less movement to the back; antisqwat Many thanks - M