GeeTR

I can only imagine they're talking Gts4's, as my experiance is the same as zeh Baron's.

Hey, Any one with any more info on this? I’m currently suffering the much seen "dropping oil pressure at idle, rectified by engine shut down and 3 min wait" This plus a audibly shagged oil pump, means I’m looking for a replacement. UAS sell "N1 pumps" with visually different vanes " http://www.uniqueautos.com.au/pricelists/p...t_gtrengine.htm " Worse case, the spring and vane are the only mods; what are peoples experiences, thoughts? do they overflow oil and just open the pressure spring more? Much appreciated, and thoughts - M

Wtf, *sigh*

Yeah, mine does this as well, though i cant ignore it, its stressing the crap outa me. If an oil change today doesnt fix it, im looking at the sender i guess.

Sup Godzil_R, Some peoples don’t like to tee between the plenum and fuel reg, cus the chance of one of the connections popping off, surly a] you shouldn’t have the issue in the first place, if you secured them b] what stopped it popping off before you teed in? Two extra joins, and a slight "reservoir " effect, with all the air in the line, between gauge and tee ( assuming not digital gauge) That said, Id use maybe the std map sensor line, or one of the many at the back of the engine... I guess even tapping your own, into the "runner crossover collector" thingo Check and triple check all connections =PK ^^

Add my bit, " Have been told , big mistake should have retained AFMS etc and gone Apexi. nice tidy tune ,good clean Hp and the best knock sensors around ?" I think he was talking about the inability of the Wolf to input the stock knock sensor, and display ... which is fair enough, as I assume the chipset to decipher the piezo noise, would be expensive, and rely on overseas bits, where the Wolf would use more basic PCB component list. (Please feel free to abuse my heritage if you can correct me.) I was told by Wolf "if u tune it properly, you shouldn’t need a knock light" Sure, though its like not have a fuel gauge, and relying on memory for refills. "If done right"? Tune changes; fuel quality, temperature differentials, ( which reminds me, does the FC have intake temp correction?). Further yet, most of us, I assume tweak our own gear, and appreciate the extra diagnostic, even if u cant rely on it 100% Or I could be totally misled on this piece of mental splat, and require a spanking

Knew you'd stick the gear in =)

12 pounds? Shiiite. Mmm, yeah that’s the conclusion Iv come to, save for 2530's. Where did you pick yours up from? As the cheapest iv seen is 4G +! Which 2530's fit the stock manifolds? Thanks man

Cheers! Though I was thinking it'd be closer to the 1G mark for just the steel wheel, and balance; could I get away with just that? Its done 87K Km's. I heard 14-15 pounds is the limit'ish, though has anyone here run that amount for a long time / constantly? Thanks all

Evening, Slightly off topic, though I’m looking to get EBC soon, and dun wanna pop my zhuast wheels into the cat. Does anyone know any good places to get em rebuilt with steel wheels? Maybe even a front wheel change? A place here in Cbr quoted me 2000 just for the wheel change!?! Surely not. Any help would be appreciated PS - What boost do ppl run with the ceramic wheels? I was thinking 10 would be safe? - M

Hey All, Trying to get ma car over Dickson, CBR, and they failed my 3.25" rusted out cat back system making 94.5dB, 3 times in a row =( Anyway, could you guys give me any advice / Info, on where i can get a large 3"+ Cat back system? I like the Trust EvolutionII, or the Apexi N1 system, but can find any I lilke the price at www.takakaira.com but cant get the custmer service. And yeah, i know i can the same stainless, madrel, made locally, but at 3G premium. Any help would be appreciated. - M

Hey, I had a mate, with a turbo that't worn quiet bad. The turbo shaft had about 8mm end play. The scraping of the compressor blade on the front housing would make a similar "scccrech" Not a pinging as you describe. Hope it helps. M

Maybe I'm just having my manrags.com... but how come no one comments on my posts dammit. I swear this would work! =) Meh - GeeTR

Yah, I’m thinking the same thing. Although, under vacuum, the vapor would flow through the PCV valve, and be ingested. Under boost, the valve would close, ( and with the pipe in front of the turbo blocked) the canister / crankcase would just slightly pressurize, more importantly, LACK any cross flow of air to rid the oily vapor. In any case, I thought of running a crank case vacuum pump --> http://www.aerospacecomponents.com/vacp.htm Id could then hook up a filtered intake to the sump / crankcase and have a continuasally flowing draft through the engine, removing oily vapor and achieving slight power gains from a higher pressure deferential from combustion chamber to crankcase....? Just some mental vomit

Hey Dude, Only had ma GTR for a week, so Im no expert, but the light isn't supposed to come on, who ever told you that is full of it. Check these forums, it can mean anything from low power steering fluid ( R32) to a dud sensor. Start with the HICAS diagnostic mode ( again check forums ) ( Mine came on for 400km last weekend when I hit a pot hole in a hick town between QLD and Tamworth, but has now disappeared ) Hope this helps - ^^

Hey, Had HKS "shrooms" fitted in Japan, though they got stolen on the boat ( beware of ship captains, 84 Colt sporting green pods) Now I have the rigid K&N filters which make a heaap of intake noise. But then there are two.. so Im not sure if there would be more noise ( more surface area "sieving" the air) or less ( air speed / ferocity through each filter would be half, compared to running a single on a RB25) At any stage, I can almost tell what angle the boost dial is, by the intake noise. - ^^

Hey Nismoid, Yah, they're stock, I'm thinking about playing around and venting em to atmo... but would like to know if they will induce any more issues then usual, as I have a fair amount of commotion coming from the turbo side of the engine, chuffs, flutters and whistles, but no BOV action. Lame I know, but I'm now having to wait a fortnight or more until I can afford to register it at Dickson ( another saga) and need some thing to pass time. Im definitely going to check em this weekend yah. Thanks man. - ^^

Hey Yall, Finally took delivery of my GTR, thank F*ck, I’m sicka ma 89 Laser! I’m doing a few tidy up mods; removing crappy fog lights, door rain strips, etc. I’m already thinking about getting some decent air to the twin K&N's ( on HKS pipes) as they are made to ingest ex- radiator air. When I spy the BOV return pipe… Ma Q: If I vent the BOV's to atmo, shall any thing too crazy happen, bar rich fuel pops between gears? I haven’t had a look at them, but I believe they are electronic ones; ( shouldn’t creep when idling) so simply looking for any ones experience. PS: Not that I wanna make noise, tis I’m just interested. Cheers

Hey, Yah, I’ve emailed them and they're getting back with standard spring rates, plus if they are serviceable or not. The $1700 deal on the HR's is until the end of Jan, so hopefully ma GTR gets off Brisbane docks in time. My only prolly, is I wanna invest in shocks, not to have to worry about em for a while, meaning they need to be of quality / serviceable / easily changeable spring, have the pillow ball rubber mounted etc, and I’m not sure if these are them. I mean HKS or others are a little bit more pricey, I juz gota figure out if these are worth the risk, given there’s NO information on the web about em. - M

Hey Vpsec2, Have you removed the brass restrictor? - Rgrds M

YEah, "The longer the runner (providing the runner has decent flow properties), the slightly less engine response (read:lag) " Mmm was of the thinking, longer runner length, purely equated to better cylinder filling at lower engine speeds, ( that 15” column of pressurized air, stored in the runner able to quickly vent into the chamber on inlet valve open ) causing Better response. Course at higher air speeds the longer runner becomes a bottle neck, where the shorter option does not. Lets maybe not get into the relationship of runner length and harmonics, with positive pulse tuneing. … I thought What was the topic again?... sorry gtst89

Need a little more information on the "curved section up to the front of the plenum" bit. I know a few guys who have seen good numbers from fabricating a custom can on top of the standard RB25 bottom runners. G-Reddy of course make a plenum, plus a heap of major places here in Oz. Do they flow evenly to all cylinders? A flow bench is used to check this often when being thought about, but I could imagine a lot of ones wouldn’t ... otherwise I guess the detonation threshold of the lowest common dominator, would be the point where the "limit" is reached. If you were going to hang onto the car and start making serious power, the custom top half would be a good start for me I reckon! ... but just ma pinion.. =)

Yah, i will have to check the new laws. And yah, my other option was sticking it under my olds name, but I guess if its stock, i should be Ok - Ta Now i just got find something to pre-occupy my self with ... for EIGHT WEEKS! *Where’s that mag?....*

Twas what i was thinking - Ta

Sup, Iv gota sick 32 GTR arriving from Japan soon, stock and 76Km's and am wondering where should i get it registered. A dood i know with a GTR reckons ACT is a bad idea, because Dickson will bend me over, and do me dry. So although I live in Canberra, should i get it registered at my parents place in Sydney? Cheers for any help