drifter17a

Is that the blue one rpm?

That is gates blue racing belt

Anyone found gates blue racing to be extremely tight/ almost impossible to install without moving the exhaust gear

The trigger kit I have is similar to the one in the link below. While going through Facebook, I saw someone else mention a similar issue, and I’m starting to think this could be related to the crank gear itself. I understand these parts are CNC machined, but maybe some earlier versions or individual pieces might have slight inconsistencies—it just doesn’t look right in my case. https://www.facebook.com/share/16an8evZd9/?mibextid=wwXIfr I originally installed the crank gear using the thin OEM washer, but as shown in the attached photo, the timing belt walks very close to the edge. When I tried using a Nitto washer—which is thicker—it actually made the issue worse. The belt walks about 1mm off the front edge, which raises more concern about alignment. I’ve gone through the full process of elimination: The tensioner pulley and bolt are brand new and installed correctly. The bolt isn’t bent and is oriented properly. The back of the tensioner and the idler pulley are clean and seated correctly. The idler sits slightly more forward, which I understand is due to its design. I’ve experimented with both tight and loose belt tension, but it makes no difference. As soon as the engine runs, the belt immediately walks forward again—even if I reset it beforehand. At this point, I’m considering replacing the crank gear with your Race Version 1 (12-tooth), but before purchasing, I wanted to ask: Are you aware of any alignment issues when using this gear? Would this gear help keep the belt aligned correctly, or could the walking still occur? Does it work with a standard missing-tooth crank and rear washer? Is there any specific crank setup or install procedure required? For reference, I’m not using a front washer, as the PRP crank gear seems to replace the need for one. Looking forward to your advice.

Hey all, I’ve got an RB25 with a trigger kit that includes a crank wheel, and I’ve hit a wall trying to sort a timing belt tracking issue. The belt either rides right on the edge of the cam/crank pulleys or walks slightly forward once the engine starts. It tracks okay-ish for a moment, then creeps right to the edge—and honestly, it’s stressing me out. I’ve spent hours removing and reinstalling the belt, double-checking everything: Tensioner setup is good, checked multiple times Idler pulley and washers are all in the correct places Followed the RB25 timing procedure step-by-step The only thing I changed was the rear crank washer—I swapped the OEM one for a Neato version, and it made things worse. The belt now sits even more forward than before. I’m beginning to think the crank trigger wheel itself (from the trigger kit) is the issue—poor design or slightly off dimensions. What’s strange is that with the previous belt setup, it actually ran fine for a couple of years—around 4,000 to 5,000 miles, even with hard driving and high RPMs. But even then, the belt was always riding right on the edge, and I know that’s not ideal or safe long term. At this point, I’m debating whether to: Machine a few mm off the crank trigger wheel to bring it back in line, or Replace it entirely with a better-designed unit Only thing is, I already have the Cherry Hall sensors, bracket, etc.—I just want to replace the wheel only, not the entire kit. Anyone know a brand or supplier that sells just the crank trigger wheel on its own? Would really appreciate any feedback—especially from anyone who’s run into this exact issue and found a reliable fix. Thanks in advance.

I don’t believe so

Anyone fitted nitto rear washer to neo rb25? It is almost 3 times thicker pushing crank wheel out ny around 1-2mm so damper may not fully sit in or evern gear fully sit on woodruff key, thoughts? https://www.jdmgarageuk.com/nit-crgr-oplrb.html?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=21704138281&gbraid=0AAAAAqLt7fNX7Rm_E5HOcGFL-flvKIrOf&gclid=Cj0KCQjwrPHABhCIARIsAFW2XBMBPvtEpZgsFMXO-BnXstE-9q1sUZWx5SFWMnFV-K35UGnngYKNJTQaArw-EALw_wcB

I just changed the timing belt on my RB25DET NEO and wanted to get some opinions. I’ve been super cautious, did a lot of research, and took my time. I’ve driven the car, and it runs fine. After warming it up, I revved it to 8000 RPM a few times—no issues, everything held up. After the drive, I heard a noise that I think is either the clutch or possibly a tight accessory belt. It’s not constant, just comes and goes. I took the timing cover off to double-check everything: Belt is on properly, Tensioner is tight, Did the 90-degree twist test—belt isn’t too tight or too loose. What still worries me is that I noticed the belt seems to sit a little toward the front edge of the gears, especially on the idler pulley. It even looks like it’s slightly coming off the edge there. Is that normal? My old belt (5 years old, ~3,000 miles) also showed a bit of wear on that same edge, so maybe it’s just how it sits? I’m probably overthinking this, but since it’s my first time doing this on a NEO and the engine is forged, I really don’t want to mess anything up. Also, I’m thinking of swapping to a clear front timing cover with the glass window. Would you recommend NITO or HPI? HPI looks reputable and their covers have 2.5mm thickness, but not sure if there’s a real difference between the two. Any advice or reassurance would be much appreciated!

Does anyone know how I could find the part number for bolts used with r34 with rb25detneo engine lower timing belt cover? my timing cover was rubbed and i fixed it but upon putting the harmonic balancer i see the timing cover is almost rubbing and that is due to previous owners using general bolts and washer rather than the bolts per link below which sits inside the washer and pull the cover in not sure if those bolts will fit rb25 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/326510870741?gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAAB_7XZxjuciMybdVOTShCs9857686&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338723872&toolid=20006&customid=7jIl12glAAAAVfHSSnyxAmSsdRxnAAAAAA

Reading online everyone says it is 150nm ish but gtr manual for rb26 state a crazy torque of 446, any thoughts? 446 will snap the bolt no chance Largest ever torque i have done on wheel hub was 320nm with massive nut!

am i being silly here and over cautious?

I agree re not trusting it as it makes mistakes however can do hours of research for you at times by simply asking a question

The I've done a lot of research and feel like I'm becoming a nut and washer expert. The washer in question doesn’t look very conical—it’s almost flat, but one side has a chamfer. The guide's picture shows the convex side (chamfered side) facing the nut, but the text says the chamfer should face the pulley, which is confusing. If I follow the picture, the chamfer faces the nut, but the instructions say the opposite. When I place the washer on a flat surface, one side looks flatter—maybe that's the concave side—so I would expect the chamfer to be on that side. But it isn’t, which adds to the confusion. The term chamfer is also throwing me off. I always thought the concave side should face the pulley, and the convex side (with the chamfer) should face the nut or bolt head. But Nissan’s instructions say the chamfer should face the pulley, which seems backward. I know I’m probably overthinking it, but I want to be sure I’m doing it right. Also, I’ve seen some people replace the nut and stud with a bolt, but I assume that’s not a good idea, since it might not keep proper tension on the tensioner. Lastly, just to be 100% sure: the pressure washer should face the pulley, then the conical washer? That feels strange, since usually the pressure washer goes first, facing the bolt or nut.

Wow man thank you, that simple washer was making me very nervous and chat gpt was confusing me didn’t know it shows it further down silly me, spent hours looking at every youtube video to see which way washer is installed

I think I follow re en-62 , I looked at rb26 and conical washer is after pressure washer. so order is nut then conical washer then pressure washer but I don’t know which side should recessed bit should face( conical washer ) https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4540.38gabk