drifter17a

Sucker won’t come off i tried vacumme so next step is get a tourch and blow it through spark hole to melt it, would that damage anything? i also saw lots of small stone and dirt on the pistone , argggggg

How would you remove it though as you can’t get vasaline there you need something that sprays

wow and engine had survived? I bought a borescope camera to check inside there and try once again with vacumme and if not then will do compression without plug and if not then leave it for engine to take care of it . i just want to be on safe side whilst on the topic, what would you put on injector oring to make it slide in and out, would wd40 damage it ?

thanks bought a gear puller so will update what happens

Was changing plugs and bit of plastic sucker which was from the spark plug loom fell into the hole can’t get it out using vacume or gum so question is, would i just start the car and hope it burns or it can do damage? i am scared it may get stuck between valve and valve seat or i could removr plug, diconnect fuel pump and crank the engine to force it out

friend of mine had its car totaled by a dealer here who was meant to service it . a 19 years old took it out and trashed it who was a technician a question re link ecu, I installed new turbo and wanted to take the inlet manifold out to paint it. whilst doing it, I realised how much of a pain it can be to even change the injectors so I have decided to get the 630cc injectors and install it and take it to tuner. my question is, if i simply plug the g4 into the car, can i change the injector size and then the base map will inject correct amount of fuel or no ?

So oil cooler installed and mounted next is the an fitting with braided line does anyone have any experience with these fittings? i have not shaved off the braided line before pushing it into the fitting, see pic below . is that ok? does the pipe head need to sit flush and spotless with the nut or will it get pulled it once tightened? I don’t have a vice so that is as much as it goes also i have cut the pipe in half and below is best i could achive which is not straight but almost there any suggestions?

Well explained so what happens when power from ecu goes then you are missing one of the sources needed( positive or negative) right? if you do then it shouldn’t matter if you have a permanent ground or ecu ground

Can’t be asked now as it is all back together but should have video it how would two negative run a pump?

Look at the guide, black/yellow is + and other green/white is -

This is driving me insane i have installed a new boss kit and it won’t f****ng come off i have used wd40 and plus gas on it and have wiggled it for over 1 hour and it doesn’t budge i have no leverage so scared of braking the hub kit as i use the steering wheel to pull it can’t also get steering puller as there is nothing to bolt it onto any suggestions ?

Did add a fuse both on direct feed and feed to pump so 30 and 87 re ground, here is what i understand relay needs power on 85 and 86 to energise and if one is missing then it will not energise and ciruit will be open if i am using ecu positive to pin 86 then surely when ignition is off it shouldn’t matter whether i have an always on ground or ground from ecu but it did! maybe someone with greater knowledge can clarify

Me thinking it is neo wedge t5

does anyone know what these type/bulb are called the climate control led is called t3 bulb and t4 bulb this is from cluster

Issue fixed it was purely due to me not using the cables from ecu for negative what i had to do was cut it, from socket which connects to pump have a connection to ground and use the ecu negative for relay even though i fixed it, i still don’t understand why that negative was important. I didn’t know there is also switched negative. re pin 85 and 86, it doesn’t matter which one is positive / negative after through forum check

going to use thanks mate, will do it again hopefully this time it stays. nice paint on engine block, did you paint it yourself?

@SeanR32GtSt? @neo25t thanks much appreciate the effort to draw and send it . heading off this afternoon to fix mine

Did read this which is how i worked out i should have used ground from ecu cable rather than battery directly and can be seen from my earlier post what i was curious on is why relay works if positive from ecu gets disconnected if negative is directly fed rather than simply following, want to understand and asked in open forum so .... if i wanted i would have paid someone

Fair enough which is why i am asking for help at least i have some clue ...

Where am i going wrong?

I did the relay, i managed to do a bit of f**k up car started up ok and here is how i wired it 30 to power direct 86 to black/yellow from ecu 87 to black/yellow socket connecting to pump 85 to ground directly all worked fine and worked fine but when i switches the car off, it continued to work non stop re reading the au forum , i realised I had to also cut the green/white wire and use that on pin 85 which comes from ecu and then ground the pump directly the forum post mentioned 85 as switched and 86 as ground but the relay writting is other way all google results also show 85 as ground so i suppose it is AU relays that have the pair swapped around can anyone eighten me on why ground from ecu is needed, my view is if the live/ switched live from 86 is disconnected after i turn the key to off position then that should close the relay but it doesn’t to start with relay is off and only is energised when i turn the key but never disconnects again even if i turn ignition off any ideas? what would have been worst case scenario if pump kept running and i hadn’t noticed, would it have simply run until battery is dead ? i suppose the fuel would have been returned to the tank and not stay behind injectors and blow them

Cool, got a 2 port to avoid running many pipes my understanding is one comes from valve cover and one goes to manifold intake so 2 port on rb25 should be ok as they are linked , right? how can you get apt fitting for braided lines for the valve cover?

Did u use high temp paint and normal primier?

Why do you reckon the paint has been damaged? it seems as it has absorbed all of the dust into itself would you use primer undercoat which is a must for paint adhesion but again can’t see high temp ones

Painted my rocker cover using high temp paint and primer undecoat it hasn’t come off but feels as it is either dust that has merged with the paint after a year or burned so repainting again. i have bought high temp spray but with primer can’t see any high temp ones. any ideas on whether primer needs to be high temp? do you reckon it can get above 200 degree c in engine bay