drifter17a

Fair enough which is why i am asking for help at least i have some clue ...

Where am i going wrong?

I did the relay, i managed to do a bit of f**k up car started up ok and here is how i wired it 30 to power direct 86 to black/yellow from ecu 87 to black/yellow socket connecting to pump 85 to ground directly all worked fine and worked fine but when i switches the car off, it continued to work non stop re reading the au forum , i realised I had to also cut the green/white wire and use that on pin 85 which comes from ecu and then ground the pump directly the forum post mentioned 85 as switched and 86 as ground but the relay writting is other way all google results also show 85 as ground so i suppose it is AU relays that have the pair swapped around can anyone eighten me on why ground from ecu is needed, my view is if the live/ switched live from 86 is disconnected after i turn the key to off position then that should close the relay but it doesn’t to start with relay is off and only is energised when i turn the key but never disconnects again even if i turn ignition off any ideas? what would have been worst case scenario if pump kept running and i hadn’t noticed, would it have simply run until battery is dead ? i suppose the fuel would have been returned to the tank and not stay behind injectors and blow them

Cool, got a 2 port to avoid running many pipes my understanding is one comes from valve cover and one goes to manifold intake so 2 port on rb25 should be ok as they are linked , right? how can you get apt fitting for braided lines for the valve cover?

Did u use high temp paint and normal primier?

Why do you reckon the paint has been damaged? it seems as it has absorbed all of the dust into itself would you use primer undercoat which is a must for paint adhesion but again can’t see high temp ones

Painted my rocker cover using high temp paint and primer undecoat it hasn’t come off but feels as it is either dust that has merged with the paint after a year or burned so repainting again. i have bought high temp spray but with primer can’t see any high temp ones. any ideas on whether primer needs to be high temp? do you reckon it can get above 200 degree c in engine bay

Hi , bought myself a moshimoto catch can 2 port. do yoi really get all those advantageous advertised with it such as preventing knocking? it is the catch can only, sonyou know what size the pipe is normally so can buy the braided lines to connect it up?

Thanks mate, any order to install the sandwich plate or doesn’t matter? i am thinking i install the oil cooler ahove the sensor one

Hi guys, have purchased a 19 row oil cooler but van’t ser any holes for the sensors as it only has an input and output so my question is , can i used a sandwich on sandwich plate so one for cooler first and then one for sensors? two, does the oil cooler has entry/ exit port so have to connect the pipes in specific way or no?

Bump:)

same weather but when engine is cold, high boost when warm , it can't go beyond 7-8psi look at these scum bag , there is a reason worrying about my baby

Called jcase fuse found the answer

All, dors anyone know what this fuse type is called as I have blown it and now stuck

Well here is the story my cheap boss kit broke which had a brass at the back, i bought a hkb boss but there is no brass/copper at the back so i have ran the wire inside of the boss hole and checked the wire has clearence to turn from side to side however if wire is snapped then ground could be short and hence horn going off

There is a 10 amp fuse My question is, if for whatever reason the ground that is short circuited then will it sound the horn until battery is drained or somehow fuse will blow. I think it is the first case as the fuse is 10amp and horn pulls way less so it will work and work until battery is dead my setup is, 30 and 85 are joined and then fused to the battery on 10 amp

Just revisiting my decision, i have directly plugged 85 and 30 to battery meaning horn works regardless of ignition status. It is not the best to leave it direct to battery so want to rewire 85 to a positive ignition that is switched with ignition, what would you use? i am thinking to use fuel pump or some fuse that comes on with ignition. is it a bad idea to do that? there will be no draw from pin 85 or minimal , right? Should I fuse it to 2 amp or so as it is only energising the relay so power from battery is sent to horn directly

Fixed the temp issue, the internal sensor was unplugged. here is the location

Whilst I have this topic open, my boost gets to 11 psi on occasions when car is cold and when warm, it does not pass 7-8psi no matter what gear and WOT. i don’t have a compressor so have bought a 65mm end cap and did put a tyre valve in it. I am then wanting to use my tyre inflator to check for leak. Is that doable or the tyre inflator will struggle? is it a boost leak in your view or more a turbo problem? it could also be my walbro is not directly feed but i can’t see any link between pump and boost

Lol, it is my ferrari. My childhood dream so ..

I know it is silly but it is how i feel and find it very hard to leave it overnight

I am overly paranoid that mechanic may nick something or even blow up the engine i am not there to see what they are doing..

No welding now but all sorted .... so here is my question, I can just cut the negative cable at front of the car right? i connected a negative to body and checked it is grounded

Cold start as testing the car when it starts up?

What did you mean by never given a car without problem? well guy is charging me £400 for dyno and that is for 3.5 hours and around £200 for fitting the way i understood, fitting is very simple, fit ecu in case, fit and wire air temp and fit maps/boost solonoid