drifter17a

can you please explain it in wire to pin term. I explained above on how I have connected it and again below: power from battery to pin 30. ground - pin 85 power to horn - ping 87 wire to switch / horn button - pin 86 . this is then grounded on horn side sort of like below https://www.google.com/search?biw=1920&bih=1009&tbm=isch&sa=1&ei=D4JYXLbQNcHkgwefjJWYAg&q=relay+horn&oq=relay+horn&gs_l=img.3.3.0i67j0l5j0i7i30l3j0i8i30.24132.24132..24379...0.0..0.48.48.1......1....1..gws-wiz-img.BEvgJH0xOJU#imgrc=mccxtHvKA7bRDM: when I push the horn, 86 and 85 is connected so power should go through from pin 30 to 87 which doesn't happen. 86 is not hoocked up to any other power source so not sure when I press the button, whether 86 gets power from relay to connect to 85 or ..

hi, I have purchased a greddy boost controller and have a hard time adjusting it. I understand gain is in percentage on how much boost you want . I started with 5% and now on 30% which gives me 11psi.I don't know what the percent really means. . 30% of base boost or ... they could have just made it easy by sticking to psi. then gain is set to 15% as I understand gain is used if boost drops at the top rpm, gain will maintain the boost . start, is what you want the greddy to kick in from. I am not really sure what that means but reading from what people have said, it should be your desired boost -4 psi. so it is set to 7psi. warning , it is what you want the boost controller to be the limit . i set it to 11 psi limiter, is again in bloody percentage on how much boost it should release when you hit 11 psi. i set it to 5% . now what I see is , on first gear 7 psi as max but it is usually on 5- 6 psi. second gear it hits the 11 psi and stops at 12psi at max ! but again runnig around 8psi range third , same as second. 4th same as 1 st gear. I am really confused and fed up with driving up and down to bloody adjust it . should your boost decrease / increase depending on gear or is it more rev dependent ?

will do later this evening, use my blow tourch . i wonder why in the UK there is an old trick of calling the police and asking for a car to be removed which seems to have been abandoned by removing fuel cap and saying it is a fire hazard. normally when the car is taxed( road tax) and MOT( mechanical check once a year) then they won't remove it but it if it annoying you people do above

that is what I didn't know :) well I was going mad getting all sort of sleeve to ensure they won't touch ...

If for whatever reason they do, screw coming loose? lots of diy jumps simply use a wire connector so they could be setting up a death trap just amazed really on how stupied the design is

Thanks, will check it out i am pretty worried on what happengs if positive and negative touch inside the fuel tank. i think answer is spark and then boom. Have fine japaniese engeenering not thought of this? even if fused, a small spark is enough to blow up the car with 60 liters of gas re wire, i am thinking of soldering, what do you recon?

I have followed it and it is not working hence the post. my understanding is when i press the button pin 86 and 85 are energised so 87 and 30 are linked thus power goes from battery ( 30) to 87 the horn .

Not sure i understood. The button is getting power from leg 86 of the relay and groun from chassis. What do you mean car wiring generally switches to earth? any suggestion on what i am doing wrong?

Hi guys, i am going mad over my horn wiring as it does not work. Here is what I have: 5 pin relay: pin 30 to battery ( fused at 10amp) ping 87 is power to horn positive . Horn is grounded to the chassis on the other pin so one positive from relay and one from chassis Pin 86 is connected to horn switch . Horn switch then has a ground to streering wheel column. pin 85 is ground this doesnot work when i press the button or even when i connect 86 and ground together. if however i give positive to 86 from the starter key wiring , it beeps!! i thought i need ground to 86 but i need positive. anyone that can help please

Many thabks, do you have an example or link?

All, i am installing my walbro fuel pump this weekend. I understand the r34 gtt standard wiring uses a two stage fuel relay so on idle it cuts fuel or supply much less voltage (11v ) than 13.5 v. my question is, i normally use a joint coupler with heat shrink covers. Is that ok inside a fuel pump? Obviously i will do the connection outsite of the fuel pump and then put it back in to the fuel pump. i don’t think you can use electrical tape, can you ?

Hi guys, so buying qll bits i need for my upgrade and what is left is a tubonand injectors. turbo will be a hybrid bolt on build by uk company. re injector, they cost around £600. Alternative is r35 gtr injectors and reading numerous posts it seems they are a straight fit but some say you need to change an o ring. Can anyone share their experience on this? is it a straight fit? i see lots of sets going for £200 sexond hand and also few set of either bosch or denso at £160 for 6 injectors brand new. Is it too cheap to be true / good quality? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NISSAN-SKYLINE-GTR-R35-INJECTORS-STANDARD-X-6-R34-R32-R33-GTT/153354371979?hash=item23b4a2038b:g:grsAAOSwrfRcTZjQ https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6-Genuine-750cc-Turbo-Fuel-Injector-71lb-Direct-Fit-Nissan-GTR-R35-350Z-G35-M35/183394861581?fits=Model%3AGT-R|Plat_Gen%3AR35&hash=item2ab32f820d:g:67QAAOSwvu5bfBkX if i fit them in, considering my original ones are 370 cc, would the car run at all for me to drive to dynonplace? I think answer is no as it will flood the engine with fuel. So my second question is if i fit it after installing my link ecu with base image, could i just go there an change the injector size so it will let me drivr it to the garage?

I was suggested ceramic extreme for occasional drift and organic for street racing i am in the uk and prices are way more than au even for extreme

what would you use?

Hi, Anyone has any experience with the following clutch . It looks like a racing clutch but on driftworks in the UK is listed as street clutch . https://www.japspeed.co.uk/exedy-nissan-skyline-r34-gtt-stage-2-s-type-clutch.html would the clamping force suggest the maximum load/torque ? in another word how would you match hp requirement with clamping force many thanks

you are right, called prosport and was told what you said you are a genuine and very confusing when you have a gauge that says negative pressure and shows PSI but it is inch Mercury and on positive it is PSI! Have anyone used prosport, are they reliable at all ?

how would you know if BOV is leaking ? mine is blitz and BOV off to air. I understand the suggestion of using the manufacture / the divertor but I do like the sound. What I have read and understand from blitz is to turn the car on, adjust the screw and when it starts to idle rough or cylinder on BOV is open then tighten 1 turn . I have followed this but strongly belive my BOV is leaking . I don't have air compressor at the moment to test so looking to get something and use my car tyre set to 20 psi and test for leak. in meantime I wanted to know, how can I know what spring I should use on BOV ? does it have to match with your desired boost ? I understand the way BOV works is, it has two ports, one connected to after the Throttle body and one to the pipe before TB. Pressure/Boost pushes the piston up and at the same time pressure from manifold/boost pushes it down from top so there is no way it could be opened during boost and when throttle is released the vacuum does create a suction from above and extra air pressure from when the TB is closed pushes the piston up so it is released. is this correct ? if so then what is the use of spring ? I have noticed the BOV opened when I rev to 2-3 k which hardly creates 2-3 psi of boost even if I tight the adjustment all the way !

So even though it is psi, it change to inch per m on negative?

I suppose you are refering to solonoid connection which connects to boost and your wastegate which is before tb i only said what i had seen on forums and searches re my negative psi, i have tripple checked every thing and all is in order. The fact that they match ( greddy and prosport) when boost runs through it says the prosport should work fine i think -14.7 is ok, don’t ask me why but i recall a memory re 14.7 being the normal air pressure or something alike. Please excuse my ignorance but at -21 or -25 at times, it seems very odd it could be greddy does not show a a bigger negative value as it is limited to -10 to 30-40 psi or whatever set by greddy

Aftermarket bov( blitz) no fault code but boost leak as i can see the boost doesn’t go above 7psi whilst controller is set to 11 psi i think it is the bov spring i opened a sperate thread on this topic

All, I have searched various forums in hope of finding an answer. What I want to know is where should boost gauge pipe be connected to, before throttle body or after. What I have seen and what seems to be majority view is before throttle body . little background: I have two boost gauges, one is evo ( see below) and one is the greddy boost controller http://prosportgauges.com/evo-electrical-boost-gauge.aspx there is a pipe after throttle boddy connected to a filter and then to a t which then goes to greddy and evo gauge. Evo gauge is reading -21 or -22 psi on idle whilst greddy is -9.9 when it is building boost they seem to match with 0.2 to 0.5 psi difference . I am leaning toward beliving what is shown on greddy as it is a well known brand than evo which is after market . so now for my questions, would you relocate the boost pipe to before throttle body ? i suppose before TP and after pressure when car is boosted should be the same, in another word the boost should no decrease when it is passing TP . 2. I seem to have a boost leak and have checked all pipes without an issue. What I suspect is, it is my blitz bov as it could be opening sooner than I could reach 10 psi( what I have set the greddy as). what is your view? I am thinking of getting a new spring for the blitz bov

trying to narrow down the issue by eliminating anything that could cause it . I think it is due to having blow off valve so AFM is accounting for air that is getting released hence running rich and missing every now and then. does this make sense to you guys ?

You guys in AU are lucky with so many skylines i didn’t know there is even an option of fitting r35 afm, will look it up

Askd few times as i suspected he meant the z32 afm but he said the software and z32 hence why i am asking anyway, how are you finding nistune? Would you have invested in link g4? it has quite few features but not sure if i would ever use it does nistune provide an option of protecting engine from blowing up by reducing boost or limit rev if hot? i think something like link does

i fitted a nissan micra 1.3 1998 after cutting wires, seems to work and show reading . i have a mis fire even before changing the o2 so not sure if it is the o2 sensor my understanding is they have a range so it shouldn't really matter