drifter17a

few years back, I bought japspeed( well known in the UK) tension rod. Does anyone know if one is meant to look after and service spherical bearing as I refer to it. see attached picture. dust boot was torn and came off so no dust boot but doesn't look to have change anyting significantly . I bought these as had vibration on brake and no issues since installation really Lower Recurring cost per month

I end up using the body panel right next to the triangle shape which seems strong and not hollow which has the subframe bolted to on front connections/poly bushes. it is fine now so didn't use sill or inner rails

right but where is the joy of fixing it yourself? Link ECU replaces the main ecu as it is plug in so my question was does consult port uses the standard ecu to connect to hicas and abs etc / in another word, were you able to only access them throuugh standard ecu even though they were different ecus? has anyone read abs module codes on nissan skyline and if so what software and port have you used

didn't budge so I had to remove it, open top mount and fix....

All removing sub frame at rear to change bushes and normally you lift from diff and standa under the subframe arm where it is triangle shape/ 3 bolt/nuts now with subframe needing to come off, where would you place the stand as sills are not strong enough and i have squashed the liners ones before

Mechanic will have same tools as me just need some advice on how to read the abs module code

So other night i did few hard braking and abs light is now on and no abs. Wheels do lock up i have link g4 on my 1998 r34 gtt which has usb interface but i think that only replaces the ecu as I still have consult port what I am not sure is if consult os reading and accessing ecu through the old ecu so i bought consult and tried both consultz and nissan data scan 1 and neighbours can access the ecu or any other ecu as hicas was also removed so i googled ans jumped pin 4 and 8 and still no flashing on abs light indicating what the problem is read the link ecu and had no error and it is locked by tuner so can't access it what are my options here to read abs fault and fix it?

Not looked after i guess by previous owner changed all 4 corners, rear disc and good year tyre at 1k so far

It is a 645ci bmw not my skyline

I hear a knock every now and then when going over kerb to park so think it is the spring not resting on the pad i am thinking of hooking up the spring compressor and hammer it so spring sits on the pad is that a bad idea? You are right it is a nightmare to get it off though. Will probably do that

Did voltage drop test and negative it is 2.4 volt and positive is 3.4 volt to alternator and i belive more than 2v on positive and 1v on negative means trouble my battery is in boot so i used jumper lead to extend so not sure if this is playing a role i think it is either dirty connection or short circuit somewhere, thought?

I hear a knock every now and then when going over kerb to park so think it is the spring not resting on the pad i am thinking of hooking up the spring compressor and hammer it so spring sits on the pad is that a bad idea?

So took it to sparky and he reconditioned it. he couldn’t get the regulator and after some fafing around he called and said it is ready So now with full load it is charging at 14 but when rpm is 2k and above. When on idle which is around 800 it doesn’t charge at all with full load charing at 12.7 or less with nonload or full load around 11.5 belt is as tight as hell so what could be wrong?

So if not on the mount seat then it is ok?

All, silly question but what is the purpose of top or bottom mount rubber or slot where spring end should rest on? if not, what could happen?

Well not charging do dead for dure ubless there are relay etc

All, had car for number of years all good. Changed to big turbo and around 650bhp and after 2 days of driving alternator suddenly died it is much hotter running car so thinking it could have killed it. Very strange no sign and suddenly dead do they have a relay or something? If i remove battery lead, it dies and don’t charge checked online and some say it could be relay. Is there relay for alternator ? looking at high amp ones they are £600 so pricey. thanks for any advice

Thanks bud would ground coat be same as the first wet laquer before base coat, seen that on youtube and didn't understand it when you donbase coat, i was 15 mins between coats and after 30 mins following last coat do laquer or clear coat otherwise as I understand you need to sand it with 1000 to create but surface if doing it say next day re paint types, i know mine is metallic but don’t really know different type of paint and whether mine is acrylic

When you say sand with 600? would you fill hollow with bonding compound or next layer of paint

problem fixed, the heavy shock proof is magic. I have shifted hard when accelerating quickly and can say it is almost gone and probably notice it once every 50 times. love this product

All, I have painted over years but with minimal knowledge so I am trying to up my knowledge. here are my qestions: paint procedure is as follow with points needed to be done on each stage, is that correct ? 1. Primer( if bare metal) or grit 1500 to create area for paint to stick if there is already paint. This will be 1 to 2 coat. one needs to wait 24 hours before going from primer to sanding to doing base coat. 2.Base coat, 2 to 3 coat. some say 4 to 5 coat which ? Waiting around 15 mins after each coat. 3. top coat, I don't really understand what this is, what is the top layer? 4.laccuqer or clear coat , 3 to 4 coat. around 15 to 20 mins after each coat 5.polish temperature is what is I have in garage which is around 15 to 20 degree. I have painted a metalic car using above and paint is sort of matt , is there specific laquer to be used with metallic?

Looking forward to put this in bought 4 quart for £90 and will post back on how it turns out

Mine is gtt r34 with 500 bhp looking to boost up to 650 as it is forge so think having heavy might not be that bad at the end due to power. just worried it won’t shift in cold morning

new refurb one is around £1300 and want to kill this, buy one next year and then swap. I can then rebuild mine and learn something . I can then keep as spare or sell it . Have seen many posts stating to use lightweight but some other saying heavy weight. confused now.

i take it your box was worn so it won't shift and redline brought it back ?