drifter17a

understood however does the oil help here? Some swear by it saying it fixed all crunching and syncro issues?

I am thinking of putting redline heavy 75w-140 . https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-1023-red-line-heavy-shockproof-gear-oil-75w-140.aspx reading online some say it is not good for my gearbox as it will be difficult to shit. currently have castril gl 4 75w-90. tuner recommended this and looking online some people say it has fixed the syncro issue. My issue is from 2nd to 3rd and 4th to 5th if shifting quickly. I want this to be in box for a year or two before buying a recon one and replacing it. I don't think lightweight or super lightweight work for me . Spoke to redline and they said use MT-90 but again that is same as my castrol so think the heavy shockproof is way to go. has anyone used this /?

Nice one spec and bhp? i assume you are refering to 0-60?

I have seen torque amp which is 48v turbo proving around 4 psi so it seems to match torque at very low rpm to what you achieve at 3.5k rpm hence boosting street acceleration i am done spending more money on rb25 as it is laggy so think if I put a top mount turbo with bigger turbo it will make acceleration even slower as boost will kick in around 4k

For instance i wonder how a 2 liter evo can get 0-60 on 3.4 sec with 2 liter engine lag will be huge and need 3 sec to get to the rev band i am interested as no matter what power, R34 with 2.5 engine struggles to get low 0-60 also what is correlation between engine size and fuel consumption. Me thinking engine of 2.5 should consume much smaller fuel than 4.4 my m5 consumes less With 560 than the r34 i can only think of new technology and extreme precision on mapping but still there is almost 2 liter difference and fuel usage is same

AssumIng you have two cars one with 4wd and one rwd, if you could overcome grip issue would 4wd and rwd have same acceleration givrn engine hp and weight is same? Also does anyone here drive 700+ rb25? Is it laggy on 2.5 engine? i wonder why i didn't change my bottom end to 3 liter to get much better torque and smaller lag

god this is so confusing so where do you lift from for rear? can't do pinch weld, is it arm ? if so where you place the stand/

Calm down buddy:) So many people saying so many different things so asking for various opinion to get this right. jack under diff is as saftey once the jack is removed and car is supported on rear arm . Did you see my pic 1? In your view having the saftey under diff is wrong as fall back ? Re front will take a pic and post just to make sure I understood correctly. You are right, I meant main chassis rail and so many forum say use that which is wrong in my view, Sills where the drawing from manufactor suggest to use aren't strong at least not on my car. One thing I haven't tried is get an adapter for the sills so the trolly jack bowl doesn't crush it and rather load is spread on the pinch weld . They are weak on mine as one side has split up so not sure if you meant to use it .

I agree bigger isn’t always better hence why asking for opinion on ratio, it was taken off alpha omega racing website. would gtr caliper be better than evo as some tuners claim? what is your concern? Bigger disc can mess up the ratio or performance?

see pics attached. I am slightly confused with front so let me get rear clarified first On Rear, lift on Diff casing as shown in Green and then stand on either the red on pic 1 which is just the arm on each side or the subframe legs shown in red again in pic 2. If you look at pic 2 with areas in orange they are crushed a little bit and worried of supporting can on it or lifting unless I buy the adapter which is a rubber piece distributing the load. On front, lift from cross member as shown in pic 3 using red and place stand where? We all agree not to use the side rails as shown in orange on pic 3. I used it before when people on differnt forum suggested to and it crushed it little bit so back off very quickly . I

Using trolly as need car up in the air by around 50cm on all corners to remove gearbox pinch weld is very risky as it is split and rusted a little bit. I removed rust and coated it with under-seal so don’t want to use it on front what do you mean by diff? i was referring to Subframe or cross member where streering rack is bolted to Just behind sump problem is i have one trolly and doing rear works on diff but front i have to first do one side toe eye and other while car seems to put lots of load on one side and fear toe eye will break causing a nightmare

Reason for bug brake is cosmetic really as don’t like the small discs 280 at rear bought the bm57 and thinking with the rear 350mm discs should have much better brake feel tunner was trying to sway me to buy gtr brembo gold which said is much better than evo brembo on breaking performance. anyone has any idea whether gtr gold all round is better than evo 6 front and rear? front it 350mm with 4 pot caliper evo 6 and rear is standard but plan to do evo 6 brembo( bought calipers) and combining it with 370z disc which is 350mm front is 350x32 and rear will be 350x20 with brake balance of 69:31 re b57, it came from reputable seller and has nissan logo engraved so don’t think it will be fake right?

All i have read through so many different posts and can’t find anything conclusive some say use pinch on the side which is wrong as i did once and it crashed so stopped some say put stand on the side liners which again is wrong as it crushed it little bit so far what I do is lift from rear diff and put stands on the sub frame legs next to diff on both sides for front lift from cross member and stand there sometime i can’t lift from front when rear is up so use toe eye either side, lift little and then put stands under cross member . You can’t lift from cross member and put stands there as trolly jack is in the way from rear i am stressing like hell as thing diff casing will crack specially when i am liften around 50 cm ( quite high) whee do you guys lift from rear? would diff casing not crash?

So tyre made a massive difference pilot 4s rear 275 front is pilot 4 which doesn’t really matter for acceleration. 0-60 went from 5.3 to 4.8 a wopping 0.5 sec !!!! it sticks like a glue, i can’t even spin wheel on first or hardly it does. It used to spin like hell on first and second on shitty falken

Has anyone here fitted the alpha omega evo caliper with 370z disc at rear? would it allow custom tension rod and arm to be installed ? When I asked alpha they said they guarantee it works on Standard car

Sorry for noob questions but what is zed? as z32 etc?

I bought the nissan genuine one what car was bm57 initially deployed on?

Much appreciate the detailed response i have rod on front tension arm and cover came off so need to fix it can you buy the protective rubber on rod end only, i have same item as below and the eye toe shaped thing rubber has come off https://www.driftworks.com/driftworks-tension-rods-nissan-skyline-gtr-r32-r33.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI5_ypvM256QIVVOvtCh30uQNvEAQYCCABEgKYiPD_BwE i look at number of articles and hence why i thought front toe plays a role in oversteer but based on what you said it doesn’t achieve much?

I am trying to tune the suspension geometry using old string method. I am no expert and had to refresh my knowledge on effect of toe in rwd cars. What I use the car for is mostly street driving with occasional drift and from what I have gathered, I need the following It is very important for me to have quick 0 to 60 so need rear end grip but also want it to drift when I want it to . Please correct me if you thing I am getting this wrong My plan : Toe: Slight Toe out in rear for faster acceleration and also over steer for drifting Slight Toe out in Front for again helping with oversteer but worried this makes the car very unstable. Camber: Camber isn't adjustable in rear as far as I know unless I replace the lower arm so will leave that for now On front it isn't adjustable either unless I change the top mount . Height: I am running coilover so will have higher height at rear and lower height in front. One thing I don't understand is what is the difference between the hicas eliminator which allows you to adjust to and the rear tension rod which also impacts toe under compression. I have bought the rear hicas eliminator and did fit it tonight with lots of swearing to get the bushes out . link below https://www.driftworks.com/driftworks-rear-traction-arms-with-poly-bushes-for-nissan-skyline-r34-98-02.html again they do two version one with poly bush and one with rod so not sure which one to buy and what is the impact. to me compression means under braking or acceleration so would expect toe to change but how does this differ from normal toe set ? Can someone enlighten me on the difference between https://www.driftworks.com/driftworks-total-hicas-eliminator-kit-with-rod-ends-for-nissan-skyline-r34-98-02.html and https://www.driftworks.com/driftworks-total-hicas-eliminator-kit-with-poly-bushes-for-nissan-skyline-r34-98-02.html second link has poly bosh on where it connects to hub rather than rod . what is the impact / difference ?

I bought one for nissan genuine one will fit in and report back

Centre alloy cap is made with simple sticker on it so can have word gtr on it loads on ebay.

Is ut a straight fit or requires mods?

Made me laugh, we all made thosr kind of mistakes

Different alloys at front that is all

275/30/19 pilot sport 4s rear 245/40/18 pilot sport 4 front