drifter17a

New engine not an option and this is on car socan’t strip it just need advice if anyone has one on how to grt it off

All, i have spun bearing on cylinder 2 and 3 and will be scrapping car if engine doesn’t last much longer so this is to get as much out of enginr before scrapping as car is not worth full proper rebuild Now my question, spun bearing has melted on the journal and part of it on rod inner bit( is there a term for it?) i can’t get it off as it seems welded . I have seen some people used murantic acid but I want to know if there is any other way before i try that. i think bearing is aluminume and bearing journal is steel

Guys,i have bought autool injector cleaner.would you use carb cleaner to ultrasonic cleaning as I think water is riskyhow often will you change the fluid inside of the machine/ fuel injector cleaner?would flow of 10% difference be maximum limit for differences between injectors?If the injector doesn’t leak under machine test then can one assume it won’t leak inside engine?finally, mine is top feed. Would basket and oring fit almost most top feed injectors?

Are you referring to exhaust temp sensor per cylinder?

How often would you change it?

well i do want to enjoy the power. there is minimal point having 720bhp and driving it at 100 hp. i will be flooring it most times and potentially put 3-4k miles a year. You will certainly have saftey mechanism built in such as if fuel pressure drops then back off or oil pressure drops back off etc but only thing that i can't monitor is the dodgy fuel injector. how do you find out you have a dodgy fuel injector?

Is that engine failure with full forge?

that is why I am asking what people do put in that lasts . Are we talking 200 miles or more 4000-5000 miles? My third gear is dodgy and think gearbox will pop at somepoint . re spending money , look to all critics here, I am not rich nor almost 20k Au is cheap. However I never intend to sell it as it is my dream car so I might as well boost it up to 700+ bhp and enjoy it. It should be driveble with good tyres and little skill. I have managed all the way to 600 bhp with full traction off and this is a new challange as never had a 700+ bhp car

well any tuner or mechanic will charge me above 1.5k which is roughly 2.5k au to strip and change a piston so if i am paying that i might as well do headworks and forge it ! everything on the car is there to support 600-700 bhp apart from swirl spot for fuel and possibly using walbro 450 vs 044 bosch and swirl pot. what i need is serious feedback from some one to say if the gearbox hold up to 700-800 bhp? I won't be spending 5k on sequential gearbox Samsonas

I agree but then with 11k uk pound, I can’t get any car with 700+ bhp clutch is rated at 850hp, suspension all good, brake is evo only thing that i am worried about is diff and gearbox. What gearbox do you need for 700 hp? part cost is majority of the expense to be fair. what do you consider fair in au to rebuild an engine?

All, you may have seen my other post where I mentioned of large smoke. After diagnostic, it worked out one of the cylinder had 75% leak . Decision is now to do a full forge rebuild to support 700+ bhp at fly. what he found out was the cylinder with issue had its injector flowing fair bit less fuel and he thinks that is what has done the damage by running it very lean. I will list the specs and mechanic wants 3k for rebuild as labour which is almost 5.5 k in Au dollar. he is one of the best here and all he touches is r34 and skyline there is then 2.5k which is another 4.5 k Au for parts . I then have to spent another 5k pound which is 8-9 k Au on turbo , manifold, intercooler etc to get 720 so in total around 11k pound so almost 20k Au . would you pay that ? would you pay that ? spoke to few tuners and some weren't confident on providing warranty on the build due to power but he is .

well it stopped and then it started as of two days ago hence why posting back. to be fair I am starting to use it more often now compared to before maybe why I am noticing now read it and it does seem you need a mechanic and costly solution by drilling oil galleries etc does that means everyone here with 400+ bhp does this ? It is strange how no one lists this problem when I look on net, pretty much every one says it is valve problem

All, Here is my situation. Car is runnig at 1.3 bar with standard gasket. compression and leak test was done all in green area . turbo is hybrid. not a drop of oil in intake or intercooler what is causing the smoke is pcv valve . If I block it, car will smoke like hell both mixture of white colour and smoke . We are talking clouds and as if turbo is blown if I keep it, it smokes and can see blue and at times white colour smoke and I can only assume it is the oil from pcv. now I am running the camshaft cover to a catch can and the pcv to a can . I think car can't breath or is breathing too much so would a solution be to drill two more hole on the camshaft cover and block pcv? I verified this by unplugging one side of pcv and oil was fair amount in the bonnet area within few minutes. No oil from the cam shaft covers!!! well there is but a lot smaller. i don't think it is gasket or water coolant as coolant level has not gone done slightest amount in 2000 miles thought?

All, I have seen a GTR 2015 plate with 42k miles. Price of it is quite cheap for what it is as it is listed as 47k . it has litchfield 4.25 upgrade , carbon body, carbon spoiler , body kit etc . what is suspecious to me is the price as it seems cheap then no history or service book. Guy says I can verify the service history with litchfield and kreamcar. would you buy or walk away ? Car pulls like tank, it had vibration when breaking so either pads, alloy or disc warped. then it had a sound which the guy mentioned is bell housing sound which is normal on gtr. thoughts? Can Nissan change the millage and ensure it has not been tampered with and do body inspection to let me know if it was damaged? If a car is written off or about to be made cat c which is now known as cat d or n , then would the insurance do that regardless or can the guy take it away and fix it without letting insurance know? https://www.litchfieldmotors.com/nissan-gtr/ http://www.kreamdevelopments.com/

all, one recent drift day, my r34 oil temp was getting to around 120 degree and tuner had set it so it was limiting rev to 5.7 k to limit engine damage i had a lot of first gear and second gear on doughnats on high rpm and lost around 1 litre of oil car oil temp normally sits at 80 -90 degree in city as i have a 19 row oil cooler but even with oil cooler it was getting very hot water temp was normal around 95 degree ( normally sits on 75 due to up rated moshimoto radiator) is that normal for drift car to get extremely hot and loosing too much oil ?

if I weld it, can I later swap it with kazz? I can only see kazz in the UK. I suppose the kazz kit replaces the internal so even if I weld, I could just remove it ? http://www.jdmgarageuk.com/drivetrain/drivetrain/diff/kaaz-lsd-8812.html

i quite like option 1 . my car is r34 gtt 98. don't want to buy the entire rear end from gtr as that will be expensive and too much work. have seen following as well which i suppose involves removing my internal and installing this https://www.driftworks.com/kaaz-lsd-differential-for-nissan-skyline-r32-r33-r34.html

All was out on drift day and car was shit it actted like open diff and having read many posts everyone says it is lsd however they wear and either need ri shimming or change oil some said it is open in first and lsd kicks in, in second gear which again mine was spinning on one side throughout so what would you do? don’t want to weld it as it is a daily car secondly hicas has not being removed so it still has hicas but fuse pulled could hicas even though off be causing it to work as open diff?

I know my intercooler is blitz so i would have hoped it is well known can’t get hold of my tuner to confirm how car has been setup but very strange as at times it boosts to 17.2 psi and at times 15 Almost always boosts to 17 on cold but as soon as warm it is hit and miss so unsure of what it is i assumed he is using air intake temp to control boost so using water injection to cool the temp anyway engine runs better with cooler temp

Hi guys, has anyone had return body oil of their turbo cracked or having hair line crack? i narrowed my oil leak to that and changed gasket and tightened again but it is still leaking so making me think it is a hairline crack on either pipe or turbo looks like this https://images.app.goo.gl/XPiTLT73APtUsVNG7

What is ic? Intercooler? mine is on intake manifold

yes aem https://h-tune.co.uk/aem-v2-1-gallon-water-methanol-injection-kit-with-internal-map-sensor/?currency=GBP&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIxZrVh53X4QIVipTtCh0xJgHLEAQYASABEgIk-fD_BwE

It is whatever they sent with pack which is 6mm on the 1/4" No issues at pump or filter just the bloody nozzle so me thinking it is vibrating and need to allow a bit more of loose pipe

changed to greddy and i was very happy as boost built to 17 psi but that was short lived as it soon dropped to 15.4 psi again as soon as car was hot. need to speak to tuner i spoke he is using air temp to adjust fuel and boost so don't have too much boost when hot

my bloody water pipe keeps popping out of the nozzle. I have made sure the head is round and it is firmly pushed into the pneumatic head. Could it be cable needs to have more loose section as vibration could be pulling it out ?