drifter17a

I am trying to tune the suspension geometry using old string method. I am no expert and had to refresh my knowledge on effect of toe in rwd cars. What I use the car for is mostly street driving with occasional drift and from what I have gathered, I need the following It is very important for me to have quick 0 to 60 so need rear end grip but also want it to drift when I want it to . Please correct me if you thing I am getting this wrong My plan : Toe: Slight Toe out in rear for faster acceleration and also over steer for drifting Slight Toe out in Front for again helping with oversteer but worried this makes the car very unstable. Camber: Camber isn't adjustable in rear as far as I know unless I replace the lower arm so will leave that for now On front it isn't adjustable either unless I change the top mount . Height: I am running coilover so will have higher height at rear and lower height in front. One thing I don't understand is what is the difference between the hicas eliminator which allows you to adjust to and the rear tension rod which also impacts toe under compression. I have bought the rear hicas eliminator and did fit it tonight with lots of swearing to get the bushes out . link below https://www.driftworks.com/driftworks-rear-traction-arms-with-poly-bushes-for-nissan-skyline-r34-98-02.html again they do two version one with poly bush and one with rod so not sure which one to buy and what is the impact. to me compression means under braking or acceleration so would expect toe to change but how does this differ from normal toe set ? Can someone enlighten me on the difference between https://www.driftworks.com/driftworks-total-hicas-eliminator-kit-with-rod-ends-for-nissan-skyline-r34-98-02.html and https://www.driftworks.com/driftworks-total-hicas-eliminator-kit-with-poly-bushes-for-nissan-skyline-r34-98-02.html second link has poly bosh on where it connects to hub rather than rod . what is the impact / difference ?

I bought one for nissan genuine one will fit in and report back

Centre alloy cap is made with simple sticker on it so can have word gtr on it loads on ebay.

Is ut a straight fit or requires mods?

Made me laugh, we all made thosr kind of mistakes

Different alloys at front that is all

275/30/19 pilot sport 4s rear 245/40/18 pilot sport 4 front

I have changed my front to evo with alpha omega racing so it is running evo 6 caliper and big routers rear is stock and all corners rebuild with red stuff pads fluid is dot 4 castrol racing and braided lines all around i also bought brake stopper to stop master cylinder travel i have a horrible softbrake but if pushed it will stop hard hate the feeling though as front are 4 pot rather than 2 i am also looking to install evo caliper and 370z rear disc which is big brakes rear i think that will make brake feel worse would installing bm57 help? seen various feedbacks people stating larger cylinder like bm57 makes it even softer i don’t know much about master cylinder and what brake bias i would have but looking for some advice it is on r34 gtt

Doable then is there another car box which fits r34 and gives you upgrade without lots of custom changes?

I applied hammerite black wax which is kind of thick all under the car. Some light rust on surface but not too bad overall. would the under seal stop further rust if applied over existing rust?

Does anyone know what the size will be as looking to get gtr centre wheel caps

Is it hard to rebuilt gearbox diy? first time i would open a gearbox but seen loads of videos doesn’t seem like difficult task does it need specialist tool?

Yep and that is not with flooring it 0-60 is around 5 sec at best got pair of michellen sport 4s so will report back if it got any lower

How do you guys get grip when accelerating? shift to gear up at expense of less power initially but grip?

So has anyone here installed leather back seat in r34 gtt? front you can find on the net but not rear as far as i know

It runs at 1 bar spring apology not 1.2 ecu is link plug in, see link below https://h-dev.co.uk/product/r34-gtt-rb25det-neo-link-g4-ecu/ my tuner at time said it needed some work for traction so we disabled it all together and there is no traction low boost is 1.1 bar and high boost is 1.3 which is changed by a switch

Link g4 and it controls boost

oh was going to bed and red it as baby oil nope but will check it today. It has an extended sump with 7 liter oil capacity buffled custom made

Link ecu and think it is 1.2 bar no traction control configured/ setup

I did ‘t rebuild but with a tuner having 10 years of experience and many skyline seen there then I would have though all rings are clocked( not aligned) unless he has given it to one of his workers and they have f**ked up re run in, he did and I wasn’t there . I got it back after car had run in excess of 5 hours and currently on 300 miles of the bed in oil would you use baby oil for first start up?

By run in do you mean inserting piston or bed in? i didn’t do it as tuner did and remember on one of the pics there was fair bit of oil in bore and he said it was the bore oil it has done 300 miles since and expect to return and change oil at 1k ( bed in period)

Something which is leather and can be almost stock replacement so no need for drilling and welding

All, just bought a dragy and i have to say it is brilliant . it connects to phone and does gps refresh every .100 sec and quite accurate running on low boost with falken tyre i get a 0-60 of 4.6 sec but if I practice more I think i can get it down to 4 as it doesn’tgrip do you guys shift into 2nd as soon as it is rolling to get fast 0-60 ? If i leave in first then 0-60 is around 5.5 i stick it to 2nd as soon as I have wheel spin and it bounces from red line and then get mid 4 on high boost which I haven’t tried (500bhp) i reckon it will be 3.8 if i can get power down on low boost it is 430 bhp

All, engine forge rebuild with full balancing however it smokes which is minimal and i think it is due to rich mixture as can smell fuel pcv is to air so manifold return is blocked off. When on i can see mist of smoke on idle from catch can which is strange and wanted to seek opinion here before going back to tuner Has anyone here followed the hpacademy as looking to learn and tune the ecu myself . I have purchased their engine rebuild course and it is quite good

All, is there any seat available which is leather for r34 or need to pay to custom make them?