Eager

Can anyone help source these parts, or give me part numbers ? front lip with allowance for bumper vent as shown in pic, rear wraps, side skirts Thanks

Anyone have the above ? OEM type front lip that fits stock bumper with vent on passenger side (see image) side skirts rear bumper wraps Shipping will be required

SO to bring this back up the car was re-tuned by a second tuner, who has left my evc turned off, as again the setup was creeping. I did have the boost controller working but he seen no point leaving the evc on as the turbo was creeping on its own to the area of boost intended to run. I maxed out my fuelling so the 570 injectors will be coming out, to allow beyond 1.3/1.4 bar of tune. He also thinks a precision wastegate will solve the creep, The creep is giving a very linear delivery rather than coming on boost harder.

That’s definitely happening buddy. Will be wired with relay for full power. I’m also moving from power F.C. to link g4 plug-in anyone feed wideband into link and put parameters around it for safety ? Is it a reliable safety feature or even possible?

I’m unsure of details but remember at around 1.3 bar the tuner said he was running out of fuel can I find out what duty they are at in the fuel table or is that somewhere else ?

I’m hoping with the full alternator power it should provide plenty of fuel yes, currebtly wired as factory and it was struggling for fuel at 1.3 bar. Would have liked some more safety. Would raising the pressure slightly using a upgraded regulator help much ? Cheers

Hi boys can anyone give some opinions on the ideal boost pressure a 3076 gen2 should be ran on a forged neo for road use ? On 97 Ron, mapped on link g4, 6 boost top mount etc and will a basic in tank 460 walbro be enough to feed enough fuel ? And 570cc r35 injectors are currently fitted? I’m thinking these may be stretched along with stock fuel pressure regulator ? opinions welcome :)

That’s true.

I pulled the plugs and they all looked very similar dude, and ye the average of all 6 cylinders doesn’t help a lot they are very fresh r35 gtr factory injectors, would a item fail so early ? Having changed the pump the only other bits is, pump voltage regulator, fuel pressure regulator that’s factory or injectors or fuel filter(500 miles fresh z32 item)

Yep I have wideband mate. Innovate. So can monitor things. It was running well, healthy, generally idled about 14.4 to 1. Then suddenly runs lumpy and reads about 17 or 18 to 1 once warmed up, needing some revs occasionally to keep it ticking over, but if I pick up the power F.C. hand commander and dump in fuel on the one time adjustment page and watch my air/fuel gauge slowly swing back, the idle sounds normal and happier, it takes up to about 1.2 or 1.3 of enrichment to start getting normal readings on the wideband gauge im only talking about idle to keep my descriptions as easy as possible, but the problem is true across the Rev range, try to drive it and it feels like dragging a big anchor unless I dump that fuel in on power F.C. commander is this all symptoms of down on compression on one cylinder. Or is this a result of running lean possibly without me noticing and it’s done a piston and hence it’s now down to 60 on one cylinder ? Chicken and egg type thing

Sounds familiar to my issue, see my thread. Can you check fuel pressure ? Pump maybe failing? Mine went all sudden to running poorly and after some testing, swapping afm and fuel pump etc, I’ve found it’s down compression on one cylinder

To follow this up would one cylinder down to the 60psi, cause a lumpy running motor that reads very lean on wideband? Or is it possible I have a problem that caused the engine to run lean and then do the piston ? when I up the fuel on the hand commander to 1:1.3 or so and bring the air/fuel ratio back towards what the normal readings were, the car idles and runs, quite healthy, but like a bag of crap when I just run it’s map at 1:1 so im trying to work out what has came first, is it a fuel problem that has caused lean running and melted a piston. Or is it the piston has failed and now not running right/firing properly on that one cylinder that it’s giving the lean reading sorry if that is hard to understand

Yeh I’m prepared for a piston issue. It is what it is and at least if I forge I will get to run my turbo at a decent level of boost with some reliability. Lesk down test this week.

So following this thread I done a compression test and have found the cylinder against the bulkhead to be about 60 psi. It’s a unopened to my knowledge neo with a 3076 at 1.4 bar. Engine was cold, rest of cylinders are about 140 so, some more checks needed and will do a leak down test soon but in experience of others, Is this likely a piston issue or a valve or a gasket ? engine runs and idles with no bad sounds etc, just lean and needs me to add fuel on the hand commander , this may or may not be connected. Many advise welcome

Sooo done a quick compression check. She isn’t good boys lol. What’s the official number order by the way? 1 being at radiator, in this case below, 6 at bulk head Results on cold engine 140-150 odd on 1,2,4,5 3 gets to 140/145 but takes a few extra cranks. 6 is 60 or so and jumped to 70 odd with a little oil in the cylinder. Going to do a leak down test and bore scope next to decide what is leaking. But the car runs fine, revs fine and has no misfire or nasty noises once the fuel is adjusted on the hand commander.

That’s the next plan as even at idle it’s like 16 to 1 and that’s cold start so fuel enrichment be running on power F.C. few revs to 2 or 3 thousand rpm sees 17 or 18:1 and lumpy. Add lots of fuel in the fuel adjustment area and it comes back to normal

Car still is using the factory voltage regulator or modulator at the pump. I intend to run 12v from battery, but is that something that plays up ? Other than that Is the stock fuel pressure regulator known to mess about ?

Lol. Ye. Then I tried a known good z32 afm too.

So plugs changed to no difference. Z32 swapped for a known food item and still same, fuel pump swapped for known good item still lean and struggles to idle or rev

Ok so ive had another look around the engine bay and noticed there is a loom that runs along the suspension strut area, off it comes a few things like the o2 sensor, stock boost solenoid plug, it runs over to the afm and then into the wing, maybe headlight? it seems a bit charred, it’s not completely burnt but certainly has had some heat from the top mount install running fairly close can anyone tell me is that part of the main loom or is that a piece I could replace easily ? It might not be at fault but it doesn’t look great

Oh I know, it was just to get me home, but even I richened it up there was no missfire present but certainly no missfire is evident, and on the 15 minute test drive the other night it ran perfect. With power F.C. on its map just, no adjustment, I thought the pipe adjustment sorted it as it ran perfect At idle there tonight it’s stable just lean, not missing

So the other day I took my 34 gtt to work, it’s running a 3076 6 boost power F.C. and z32 etc etc, got to work fine which was a 8 mile basic commute with the last mile a poor road surface anyway came out of work to drive home and noticed a miss or a bit lumpy, looked down at the wideband and it’s running 18 or so to 1. So very lean. From idle to cruise right through its lean I went into the power commander fuel adjustment and dumped the fuel in up to 1.3 to get it running smoothly and back to about 15:1 and limped the car home so first investigation was car seemed low on fuel so chucked a can in, in case it was to low, also inspected some hoses and noticed the pipe on my z32 afm to turbo was not sealed perfect, it wasn’t off much but I squared it up and tightened it anyway, started the car and it seemed spot on so assumed it was fixed, 15 minute test drive and all was fine so put the car back in the garage Went to take it a run tonight and reversed it out of the garage and it’s lean again, at idle and through revs do just put it back in the garage, any pointers ? its a fairly recent top mount turbo install and map, 300zx fuel filter and a new Walbro was fitted at map time 500-700 mile ago just. Injectors are r35 gtr and also low miles. Voltage still regulates for pump so would like that hard wired, I want to swap a different z32 in too just to rule it out but any other ideas ?

With the gate properly plumbed is that likely to combat my creep too ? It would be nice to hold a fairly steady 1 bar as per spring ill try get a few hours spare to set the controller up over the next few days

Hi dale cheers for reply Ye, I have now replaced that grub screw, at the tuning shop we didn’t have any handy so took me a day or 2 to find a 1/16thNPT grub screw, but it’s sorted now so just waiting to get a bit of free time possibly Friday to reset the controller and go through the steps to add however that 465 is at crank, I’m in the UK and most tune companies measure at crank so it’s not rwhp man, sorry for confusion

It’s a grip car so that’s what I’m after, and I’m guessing that progressive way the boost does come in helps that too, I’ll try get the controller running. Does my plumbing make sense ? 1.4 is my target on 97 Ron fuel but if it seems reliable I’ll possibly try 1.5, i don’t want to forge the engine however so baby steps I guess. What’s the opinion ? On a safe level for a unopened neo