bakwoods

Reviving an old thread because I pulled the trigger on a wiring specialties harness for the engine side then went Haltech 2500 and a Haltech PD16. The idea being that the PD16 will effectively eliminate ALL of my fuse block and excess wiring. I'm going to reference the excel in hopes of sorting out everything and if there's any additional information I discover I'll make and update the file. Though as others mentioned, Mitch did a great job sorting this out.

Not to thread jack, but if you have a chance can you take a snapshot of what the transmission harness looks like up close. Trying to track one down for my build and haven't had any luck. About this close to saying screw the auto GTT and swap in a 5 speed but then I'd have to deal with all the additional parts I need. GLW the build though.

Running into a bit of an issue. R34 GTT auto trans has a speed sensor at the back, little 2 pin plug, assuming it's speed sensor 2 however the current trans harness doesn't plug into it. So assuming that either my harness is wrong or someone swapped out the sensor with a different one? Either way anyone have any ideas on what to do in this case? Is there a suitable replacement to speed sensor 2 or do I even need it?!

Update: the physical swap is done. There's still a lot of headache now with deciphering what plugs go where since I took it a step further and swapped the R34 chassis harness into place as well.

Anyone have a lead on what wires on the R32 fuel pump plug are what. The R32 fuel pump plug is a 6 pole 5 wire plug whereas the R34...well that's just it, I don't know. Backstory, I gutted my R32 chassis and engine harnesses and ran an R34 chassis harness with the intention of running the fuel pump on the R34 connections, low and behold someone snipped the connectors to the fuel pump so now I'm stuck with my dick in my hand trying to sort out what's what. The chassis harness came out of a 4 door GTT, I'm anticipating the R34 dash, instrument cluster and other parts to arrive shortly so I can start doing the swap. My plan (assuming that I'm correct) is to just pop out wires and repin the blue R32 fuel pump plug. From what I am guessing, the R34 fuel pump has two plugs that go to it, a 2 pin and a 4 pin. I could be entirely wrong. Unfortunately I haven't been able to find any pictures close up of anyone's R34 fuel pump assembly with the wires. Even so there's still a few plugs missing on the harness that I need to sort out. Anyone with an R34 could be really helpful right now to decipher what's what.

Located in New York, there's no shops within a 150 miles radius of where I live that will touch the car since it's nothing they've ever seen. Unfortunately when there's no one willing to touch it, you're stuck on your own. To add insult, I don't have any friends who are gear heads so that doesn't help. Yeah the physical swap isn't bad, I've got a cherry picker ready to go but yeah the wiring aspect is the hardest since there's really very little information out there on how to do it. A lot of the threads posted have pictures that aren't functional (no longer hosted) so the descriptions aren't very helpful. Given that I'm doing a NEO swap with full chassis harness it should be plug and play, but even now, the harness I got out of a Stagea NEO doesn't work on the R34 GTT engine I pulled. No idea why, but the plugs are different which means i just wasted money. Either way, not having access to resources in the states makes this job a lot harder and not having straight answers where to find diagrams of what I need doesn't make it any easier.

For that very reason, its a forum. The basis is to help the community not ignore requests. Idiots.

That's the problem, there is no information that can be traced back to either a DIY, any form of a tutorial or even a list of Q&A's regarding the challenges involved in the swap. It's like "screw you, you're on your own." I never said anyone was obliged, but as a forum, you'd anticipate that people are willing to help each other out, not brush off anyone with a legitimate question. It's no surprise that no one can get their questions answered, dicks like you.

Anyone?! I need this kind of information right now

Tried to get advice from this Simon guy and instead was met with "you're better off going to a professional than trying to get help off the net." Such great advice from someone who's done the swap himself but can't be bothered to help others.

Sorry to revive an old thread but seeing as to how no one can accurately answer this, will the cross member from an R32 auto bolt up with an R34 auto trans?

Well the car is at my buddy's shop to get the FMIC installed, there was no way to piece together that awful CX Racing kit. I have no idea what they sent me but their customer service is terrible. (deep breath) Obviously this isn't a thread to bash another vender on, just venting. On the plus side with the new engine and chassis harness installed (and assuming I wired up the A/T harness correctly) it should fire up and run. If not, I'm in trouble. I did manage to score a good deal on a NEO motor with 55K approximately with an A/T. That being said, has anyone done of these swaps? Namely motor and trans into the R32 chassis? So far most people have done the motor swap, but the transmission aspect of it no one has really talked about it anywhere. Am I the only one? I have tried searching all over and have yet to find any information via Google or any other forum outlining the do's and don'ts. Hoping someone on here can be of some assistance and guide me through. I was thinking for the sake of ease just to yank a chassis harness out of a Stagea and run that in the R32 body. Obviously I'd have to custom fit some stuff like the cluster but I also considered just investing in the Stagea cluster and mounting that into place. The climate control will be gone so i can make room for gauges. I just hope that the mounting won't be an issue.

That's the whole thing, is the ports are smaller than 1/8 NPT, I don't know how, assuming it's because I followed someone's advise and bought the crap Plazmaman knock off manifold which I now regret since I'll have to literally take to the parts store and test fit a bunch of a threaded barbed fittings. The problem is that there's 5 ports (1 for brake booster which is an unknown size and thread pitch) and 4 smaller ones on the underside (only 1 is 1/8 NPT the rest are smaller than that). I'm just trying find a DIY link, diagram of the vacuum and coolant lines and just generally make some sense of this. I am still yet to install the FMIC and even so haven't had any luck with piping. In fact I ended up wasting $350 on piping from CX racing that doesn't fit the FFP. Unfortunately the majority of the links I find are either dead ends because the pictures are dead (not hosted anymore) or the SAU site re-routes me and gives me sponsored Google ads.

Thanks, unfortunately there's no DIY links anywhere that I can find that say what sizes I need for the manifold. Normally im a voracious reader and hunt information down easily, though here the SAU search button gives me zero results within the forum and 10 pages of Google sponsored ads when I search again. Am in for doing something wrong?

5 ports. Total, one large one on back end closest to the brake booster and 4 on underside which I'm sure are for fuel line and a vacuum gauge. Other two I don't know. The issue I'm having is any time I do a search via the SAU site I get crap Google results but no actual tutorials. The site redirects me to Google results only

Got myself an FFP recently, all good and great, took off the lower runners so that I could clean them up, get rid of the 27+ years of road grime and stuff off of it. Ran into the issue of the there being 5 vacuum lines which I cannot identify nor can I find fittings for. I've done countless searches via Google and I can't find anyone who's done a DIY on how to install this dumb thing. Am I missing something?! Even the search bar on this site spits out Google links but never lists anything on the forum. I've got the manifold bolted correctly to the lower runners now, however I don't have the dimensions of what the 5 vacuum ports are. The one at the top side I'm assuming it's going to hook up to brake booster? Check valve? Then there's 4 on the bottom side, again no dimensions to speak of anywhere. I tried fitting with 1/8 npt and those are too big. That's the smallest size I could find at the parts store.

I actually just took off my lower runners and have the same exact issue with mine as the first post. Quite honestly I was thinking of just cutting the rotted metal part out and securing the new hose to whatever is left. Although I've had no luck with diagrams as of late so if anyone has part numbers I'm sure there's some interchangeable parts between the 240SX/300ZX heater hose wise. It'd be nice not to fork over $300+ for a hose kit.

Well the since the repairs and upgrades have been a "weekend only" kind of job, there's little that I've been able to accomplish since I first started this hellish nightmare. Since I last posted, I've taken out the interior completely and cleaned it thoroughly before repainting it black. If nothing else, it looks a lot better than the stained grey mess that I had inherited. I sprayed everything in a booth then brought it outside to "air out" thoroughly since the smell lingers for weeks if you don't. Next the floor was seal coated on the inside for good measure since the previous owner had done bits and pieces of the floor with some kind of "industrial tar." After curing the wiring to the back was run and successfully buttoned up. Laying the carpet down was a breeze now since everything was bolted down and there were no exposed wires. The next snag was the transmission harness, the gear selector and solenoid wiring connectors were snipped off so I had nothing to go off of. It took me nearly 2 weeks to finally track down a pin out for the A/T and so far no luck. I as able to figure out the connection and wire colors by reading dozens of obscure threads from across multiple forums. It's amazing that no one has yet put in the effort to pass on that sort of information. Of course being overzealous, I figured I might as well take out the A/C while I’m here and free up some space. The only issue I ran into was the pump itself which was a nightmare to remove due to the perverted nature of where the bolts are. Nissan really outdid themselves, it’s like they don’t want you to take the damn thing out lol. Moving onto the next challenge was the FMIC. The dreaded SMIC was still in place and quite frankly I couldn't wait to be rid of it. We removed the old piping relatively easily but removing the actual intercooler was more challenging because of the placement of the bolts. I mocked up the FMIC the other day and took some measurements to fabricate some brackets and see where I will need to cut the long bracket for the hood latch. The intercooler is so massive that the piece won't fit correctly and The only minor set back is the oil cooler which I intend on replacing with a new unit with new lines. Now that the intercooler is mocked up and we know what’s what (wiring wise) the rest of the project will ultimately be mechanical which means a lot less guess work and a lot more money lol. I started to remove the upper plenum and then realized that I needed to bore out the holes on the lower runners to allow for the new manifold to bolt up. Even with the lower runner holes blocked off to prevent any metal shavings from slipping in, I still decided it’d be best to take off the lower runners and see what exactly I’m getting myself into. It’s a good thing I did because when those coolant hoses came off, they were brittle and brown on the inside. Oxidation is a pain in the ass to clean out and even with several fluid flushes the hoses themselves have been coated thoroughly so whatever coolant I pour in will eventually become contaminated. I thought it best to just remove the coolant hoses and pursue a full hose kit to make sure that everything that’s going in will be new and clean. Pulling off the lower runners had its own set of challenges since the coolant lines are near impossible to access from top or bottom. I ended up snipping the lines just to get everything out, when I go to reinstall, I’ll be sure to direct the clamps at the right angle to access them next time. With the holes to the block itself blocked off I think it’s only safe to say that it’s time to clean up the lower runners, degrease the block and chassis and a start scrubbing away all the grime that has built up. On the other side of the engine, I suppose I’ll need air tools to take the turbo and manifold off since everything is so rusted and seized that it wouldn’t budge. Considering that the downpipe itself has a few bolts that don’t seem to want to cooperate with a socket wrench because of where the bend is I can’t slip anything over, nor can I get a ratcheting wrench in to access the bolts. Once that comes off I’ll be doing the same step, clean, degrease and tucking all the wires away. The power steering reservoir too needs new hoses as the current ones are way too short and it was floating around the bay not attached to the strut tower. The alternative is to invest in a new polished reservoir to brighten up everything. I know most people’s builds don’t go over the gritty details like this, in fact most build threads are “here’s the old turbo” and then another picture, “here’s the new turbo” and that’s that. Though frankly I think it’s just as important to show the ugly details that no one thinks about. If nothing else, this build is not only teaching me more about the Skyline, but how to curse in more creative ways while my 2 year old runs under my feet.

@xt25det Hmm I'd pull the plastics around the shifter and E-brake and see if there's any wires that are being grounding when the E-brake is disengaged. That's usually because something is completing the circuit. The moment you find that wire you can snip it and it'll eliminate the issue. If you want to trace the wiring back then drop the panel under the steering wheel there's only the one plug near the key barrel that it would be wired into. Again, starting with the E-brake first is the best way to start since that's the mechanism that sets it off. Only reason I'm saying is because I just replaced every main and sub harness in my R32 lol. So I'm quite familiar with all of the systems and subsystems lol.

There's a question that needs answering, anyone know if the Infiniti G35 rotors will slide onto the R32 GTS-T? The reason I ask is because I had a 2004 G35 and I ordered a set of rotors for it in 2014 which I never installed. Long story short I'm hoping that someone who's familiar with the 350Z Brembo swap and other brake swaps can glance at this and confidently say "yeah that'll work" or "No, you idiot, it's a waste of time. The specs are: Front/Rear Bolt Size: 12.90 mm/12.70 mm Front/Rear OD: 295.70 mm (296 mm?)/291.80 mm (292 mm?) Front/Rear Thickness: 24.00 mm/16.00 mm Front/Rear Height: 49.20 mm/62mm Front/Rear Hub Hole: 68mm/68mm The below chart is just something I figured wouldn't hurt to have on the forum of disc sizes for OEM spec stuff in case anyone had questions. Can't get help without giving it too.

From experience in all of my other A/T cars, the only way to get all of the old fluid out is through the machine that's used at those quick oil change places. They pretty much charge the system with compressed air and force the old stuff out while simultaneously pumping new stuff in. The torque converter has fluid in it is as well and you'd have to drop the TC to get the fluid out of that. I'm safely assuming you have a trans oil cooler as well? Between all of the lines and systems, you'll never get ALL of the fluid out, but the oil pan has a majority of it in it. What I've done is drained the old fluid, topped with new stuff, drove a month, drained it again and refilled. The new oil was contaminated with the old oil so I had a better chance get the old stuff out, but you'll never fully eliminate it all. It'd cost too much to go back and forth. It's like a regular oil change, you'll always have old oil in the crank shaft and in the system regardless. Best thing to do is drain it overnight and bolt everything back the following morning. I've found I got the most sludge out that way.

Need some help with my speed sensor on the RB20DET. I've pretty much figured out where it's located, on top of the transmission, hard to reach without dropping the exhaust. The question is WHERE does it plug into on the harness? I know that the revolution sensor aka speed sensor on the RB20DET in the R32's is supposed to be mechanically driven, though...I've got a shielded cable with a white and red wire coming off of them. Whoever did the motor swap did some wacky wiring and I have no idea where anything goes now. I'm assuming that my speed sensor is electronic then? It's the RE4R01A trans (A/T) so I need anyone with an A/T to give me a hand right now with this. I spent the past several weeks tracking down diagrams for the TCM which are non-existent, diagrams to the transmission plugs (again non-existent) and searched this site up and down and kept getting zero results. The last question would be, IF I maintain the electronic speed sensor on the transmission, how would I wire it up? What plug did anyone use on their RB25 (those are electronic I believe). Obviously any and all help is greatly appreciated.

@niZmO_Man the wire colors on the plug don't match the above, however based on the pin locations alone I assume they serve the same purpose. I will transpose another diagram with the grey plug and again the brown plug.

I had significant difficulty finding any kind of pinout for the TCM, however this will prove helpful to anyone with an A/T transmission. Nissan RE4R01A Transmission Pinouts This Socket is on the Transmission Loom and on the Tester's Computer side. This Plug is on the Vehicle's Computer Loom and on the Tester's Transmission side. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 4 3 2 1 8 7 6 5 Pin Use Socket Wire Colour Plug Wire Colour 1 Solenoid "B" Yellow Green 2 Solenoid "A" Green Green/Black trace 3 Overrun Solenoid * Grey Green/Yellow trace 4 Pressure Solenoid + Red Green 5 Lockup Solenoid Blue Green/Red trace 6 Temp Sensor White Green/White trace 7 Temp Sensor Black Yellow/Red trace 8 4WD Temp Switch * Activates Upon Various Throttle Openings * Note: Apply power to Overrun Solenoid (To be Off) + Pulse Modulation Controlled By Computer In addition to this I'm working on the gear selector wires which I will do a separate diagram for.

Actually my friend is retrofitting LEDs into my headlights right now. YOU can actually bake the headlights to pull apart and then fix the hardware. PM me for details.