Rileymax

Great, thanks

Ah right, too easy then. I have a mate who builds some pretty wicked Hyabusa engines for drag racing and he gets his bearings direct from Suzuki and just orders what individual bearings he needs so I wasn't too sure if Nissan did the same thing (haven't had the chance to have a chat with them) Thanks for that mate

Definitely aware it adds up, I've had work done before, just never attempted it myself to this depth. Stock pistons and rods are fine for what I'm chasing, I was just a bit unsure on the measuring side of things. Not looking at making any big numbers or looking to build a track car, just have a rolling shell that has been sitting for too long. Pulling the engine and forging it later is the goal, hence why for now I'm just trying to figure out if I can get away with minimal machining so I can get it in the car and focus on the other aspects of the swap. Regardless it will get oil mods and the works anyway. Cheers for the replies mate, appreciate the advice

Cheers for the reply mate I have no issue running standard bearings if everything is in spec, I just wasn't sure in regards to the different journal specs, having never ordered oem bearings, I didn't realise they can be ordered individually. In regards to pistons, basing off the rb30dohc.pdf a lot of people refer to, I thought I'd be okay with rb30e pistons? I understand they'd be a reasonably low compression ratio but what I read says it's not an issue? If that's not correct though then yeah, I may as well just send everything for a holiday at the machine shop I guess. The head has already had a bit of machining work done to it, I'm yet to find out the extent but I'm buying it off a pretty reputable performance shop in town so it should be pretty good.

Just wanna preface this and point out I'm a mechanical fitter by trade but have had very little rebuild/machining experience, but I am keen to learn, hence this project. Bit of a write up here so bear with me, just want to make sure I do this right I've got an rb30e currently pulled down. Planning on putting a 25 head on it and running it in my s14. Not chasing huge power so I'm just going to try get away with factory bottom end for now. Started measuring the crank the other day, realised my budget daytona micrometer set wasn't up to the task (surprise, I know). They only measure to 0.01mm but the Nissan specs are to 0.001mm. Anyway, I started measuring anyway and came away with the mains being inline with the oem spec, as well as the big ends, except for no. 5. I consistently got a measurement of a hair over 49.96mm, where all the others were pretty spot on 49.97mm. The lower spec for grade no.1 is 49.961mm. I'm getting access to some better gear my next days off to double check everything, but in the case that the big end is right on that bottom spec, is it pretty much just a case of straight to the machine shop for machining and oversized bearings? I understand I need to measure the tunnel as well to work out my oil clearance, but it's the different grade bearings in the manual that are confusing me. What is generally the process when one journal would still technically be in spec, but in a different grade? Thanks for coming to my Ted talk

Need to sort out a couple things I have a 33 donor car so parts are no problem I'm using the 33 crossmember, will the rack be good to use so I can use the 25 ps pump? What would be the best mounts to use for engine clearance? I'm putting a ffp on so hood clearance is okay but I'm thinking more rad and fans clearance I also have a white line sway bar that I would prefer to keep if I can I know these have been asked a fair bit but I keep getting mixed answers so I wanted to ask for sure Cheers

Not a millennial mate but good try

So instead of just typing out the name for the company, you went to all the effort of belittling someone just for not doing it the way you would have done. Well done

Why does everyone have to come up with a smart comment? Could have just answered it straight up

Haven't the slightest clue who they are hahaha

I'm pretty new to the import scene so Im not overly familiar

Building a street/drift s14 and I need some suggestions for coilovers to throw in it Budget isn't massive but I'm not too fussed on price if they're good quality equipment

Wasn't the question but thanks

Anyone used one of these? Generally price means quality and this is cheap as so I just wanna see if anyone has used one and if there were any issues? Port matching, wrong line sizes etc http://torquelinegarage.com.au/proflow-inlet-plenum-with-90mm-t-b-rail-suit-nissan-rb25-polished/

So I'm rebuilding my s2 Rb25det for my rb s14 project, just wondering if the oem gasket kits are good or if there are any improved aftermarket alternatives? I'll be buying ARP studs and a cometic headgasket but will I be right with everything else OEM? Pretty new to the import world so apologies if this is a dumb question

Could have answered it without the comment but thanks

Has anyone used this kit at all? Can't really find any reviews. Also, may be a stupid question but this should all work with a RHD s14a yes?

Would I be able to just drop in the 33 steering rack with the crossmember so I don't have to mess around with power steering lines?

Need a bit of info regarding a few things, I have a s2 RB25DET going in an S14A(where to get things and what to get) Are there any shops in Aus that do a custom RB box to s14 diff driveshaft? With custom mounts on the engine with an R33 crossmember, will the gearbox crossmember from a 33 work and will it mount correctly? I'd prefer to not cut or bash anything How do I get the speedo to work with the s14 What sort of big things should I be looking to for when everything gets modplated? I also currently have the head off the 25det waiting for a new headgasket and studs, are there any big things I should be doing while I have that off? Sorry for the big post, just trying to learn my stuff and avoid as much labour cost as I can