niZmO_Man

If you make it multiple parts, can perhaps get Jaycar to 3D print for you. Or maybe Boosted Int. can help you out? He's done a heap of Nissan stuff.

Yuck VAG. I recently went through this. Hatches/small cars were heavily inflated. I found Accord Euro to be a good deal. CL9s easily go for less than $10k, I bought a base CU2 for $11k last year (130k km, serviced at Hani's or whatever that Honda garage near Cabra is called). My cousin picked up a half decent CL9 for $7k. Auto or manual, (if looked after) reliable, can get the luxury with sunroof and HID headlights. I bought my black GTS-t Type M for $6k back in the day, was immaculate and stock. R.I.P.

The standard one's front update reminds me of R34 "series 2"

megahellaflush, 1cm contact patch

1. Wait until you can save up for engine conversion/off your P plates. 2. Replace engine with Barra

Shipping from demon tweeks will be heaps less, you can get good stuff off them for decent prices.

Thread cleaned up.

Offset would have been stamped on the back or sticker on barrel. My guess is +35 front, and most likely +35 to +38 rear

https://www.bing.com/search?q=gtr+registry then search for R34 then paint codes Alternatively, look up your VIN in the above site

B58, problem solved

For the amp in the boot or under a seat.

Let me guess, 80k km never been in an accident car?

You don't need more power while you're on your P plates, you need to get off your Ps so you need more time. I'm sure it can be done with modifications.

Reminds me of when I put a Pintara cluster in my R31 Skyline and it would rev to 9 with a blip of the throttle

It would make a tiny difference, if you're going all out on a race track, but it makes a much bigger difference to people's wallets when they release it for the public to purchase.

the now dead forum hidplanet had quite a bit of USDM based information, and the G37 projectors were regarded as being pretty good. Normally you'd just throw new bulbs in, or clear lenses if you want that sharp cut off. Helps to hold the projector in your hand, so you can inspect the bowls. I wouldn't bother changing unless the bowls are burnt.

magnet got stuck near your speedo drive

you're on your own buddy

That's just the sound of efficiency

It's been 10 years man, they removed Ghosn. Get over it

could mount something in the grill area? or roof rack Bulbs are about 5-7 years max, they start blue shifting and dim until failure. Bowls will be much harder to check, basically have to split the housing and take the projector apart, unless you have some fancy fibre optic camera. Not worth doing unless you notice the light barely visible. Just grab an Osram/Philips bulb from here https://www.powerbulbs.com/au/store/category/xenon-hid-bulbs-d2s-d2r-d1s-d1r/fitting/d2s-85122 Cool Blue Boost is for that 6000K LED look, other wise any of the others will be better than old OEM ones. I found Cool Blue Intense to be the right amount of blue for that 'modern' look without compromising too much on usable light. Otherwise, Philips vision (standard replacement) works great (I'm still rocking those in my first HID retrofit in my R32).

Yeah, that's race car. On the street?

and a Camry will still chop you off the lights. Turn it into a handling machine, then later turbo or sell car and get a faster one

400kW... budget is tight Err, what? How can that be?

you want the brightest part of your low beam to be at the cut-off. You don't want light in front of your bumper because you can't see into the distance. How old are your bulbs? Have you inspected the projector bowls? Make sure the outer plastic lenses/covers are clear, any hazing or yellowing dramatically reduces output.