niZmO_Man

I'm going to take a guess and say BCPR7ES

That sucks Bit thin, try 5w-50

Yes please

Try to get BCPR6ES-8, or gap the regular ones down to 0.8mm. Assuming you have old coilpacks.

Thanks for the tip. I haven't tested the motor yet.There are two pumps on the washer bottle in the engine bay so I thought the rear washer ran off that, but it could be possible that there's a second pump in the wiper assembly. Anyone have a known working one they want to sell to me cheap cheap?

Tried Taarks?

265/35/18 Falken Azenis on R34 GT-R wheels (18x9) I want the same on my 18x10, hopefully 275/35 would achieve this lol.

Yes you can bolt it on and have it running/drivable. But it'll go into R&R mode if the airflow gets too high for the AFMs/ECU to handle.

Lol that is a dodgy way of getting more boost. 12psi is what you want on standard turbos.

What ECU are you running? What turbo pressure? What else has been done to the engine? Most importantly, how are you driving it?

Try a different dizzy. If you know how, change the CAS (check R31 Skyline Club). Also check/clean CAS and AFM plugs.

Bump

Us NSW peopl get shafted pretty badly, but we need it "just in case". And hence we line the pockets of those companies with cash. They could drop the prices by $200, but all that profit...

Tempe or St George tyres or tirerack (depends on what tyres you want).

No one wants a decent set of R34 GT-R wheels? Comes with decent tyres as well!

^ About time he got a warning. His posted started to annoy me, and I don't moderate here lol. OP, track days is the best place to learn how to drive as mentioned already. On your first day you will quickly figure out how bad your driving is and adjust to suit. Something as simple as hand placement on your steering wheel. Best to do skidpans/texi as well, as you'll more likely use those skills (for example, controlling a slide if you hit oil) on the road. My first track day on a wet Oran Park in my crapbox R31 was the most fun I had and learnt so much. You don't need power for track days. Flush your brake fluid with something decent (Super DOT4 at a minimum), put some decent pads on there (contact GSL Rallysport for some Resma or A1RMs), replace all fluids and filters, etc. Keep your standard blow-off valve, apart from the lame noise, you have no other reason to get rid of it. It helps with response between gear changes. For boost, stick with standard for now. Once you get used to the car (how it handles, power delivery, fix all the other shit first like brakes, suspension, etc.), you can buy a boost controller (e.g. $30 turbotech) or stick an RB20 turbo actuator (10psi) on there. No point running more than that, reasons mentioned already.

NRMA agreed value drops every year grr.

Isn't that where the reverse gear sensor goes?

235 all round is fine. Although I don't see why 245 would be a lot more expensive (for the rear).

GSL Rallysport http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/forum/217-sau-trader-gsl-rallysport-promotions/

GTS-t and GT-R clusters look identical. If you need a GT-R cluster, let me know

What is the offset of the wheels? What tyre size?

Sounds like you boiled the brake fluid. At the very least get QFM A1RM pads and DOT5.1 brake fluid. Add some ducting as well. Don't skimp out on brakes, especially brake pads. I had no issues with using Super DOT4 brake fluid, although that was on my N/A R31.

Pull the bulb out, take pictures and post it here.

Did you use Penrite 10 Tenths or their everyday oil?