niZmO_Man

You're probably missing the mounting brackets. Two piece (3 coil packs per piece) bolted to the head.

Check the steering rack mount bolts?

Did you test or replace the thermostat?

I'm pretty sure running tyres wide enough so they don't stretch isn't in line with the "stance" rules.

Paid and PM'd

What were you defected for? Atmo BOV?

Looks like Veilside wing with an added blade on it. E.g. http://www.knightracer.com/shop/index.php?route=product/product&path=35_50&product_id=2249

Otomoto sell HSD springs, perhaps ask them for spring dimensions to see if it will fit in your struts?

1. Go to www.imgur.com 2. Upload your picture there 3. Copy the 'forum code'. It will look like this: 4. Paste into here

So finished up at 3am lol started at 11:30pm Standard R32 - Morimoto FX-R Tap this existing hole with M5x0.8mm Drill then tap the bottom right hole What you end up with As you can see, the FX-R is a bit shorter than standard. You can make up a mounting plate to offset the difference, but the gap doesn't bother me. 4300K cheap bulb and cheap LED parker. Note the parker is more than 6000K i.e. blue Need to adjust it a bit more. The hole you drill will determine the angle of the beam as well. When I do another set I'll put more effort into where to drill the hole. Crap picture, but they are so much more better than standard R32 projectors, as expected. Can actually see the road. I'm going to put the fault with the bulbs for the uneven spread. High beam is awesome. I've kept the standard halogen high beam so I can flash during the day. But when the shield drops, you can barely see the halogen. They are 85W, which I'm assuming is factory as both my projectors has them.

My apologies. It should read "... even the Morimoto ones" as TRS sell Morimoto products.

5000K will be white white, as seen on Merc S-class cars. Whether 4300K is white enough is personal preference... And your parker lights lol. I haven't used 5000K as of yet. I always get 4300K, but I got a pair of 6000K from Mars performance in my R31. I find then a tad too blue for my liking. I think 5000K is good for looks vs. light, but as stated 4300K is best (daylight) if you want to actually see. The Mars performance bulb is actually very good. Back to back testing they easily surpass the el cheapo bulbs and even the TRS ones. I'm currently tracking down a pair of 5000K, so will provide some pictures once I do find some.

Screeching belt... have you checked alternator belt? Unfortunately, you'll have to track down another known working AFM to rule it out.

I think there's a guy on nissansilvia.com selling bellhousing conversions to put Z32 onto SR20. Unsure of link sorry.

http://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/839178-hankook-rs-3-vs-dunlop-z1ss-vs-federal-595-rs-r-vs-bridgestone-re-11/ Read through that and take a pick?

Look up K-MAC in Rockdale

Lol fair enough. Update on mine, apologies for the low quality pictures. I'll get more pictures of the retrofit with the other headlight. FX-R in R32 housing. HID vs. standard

Whoops stuffed the edit up. Ignore my previous posts. Don't bother with the HID kit I listed, get F3 Fast Bright kit and optionally a better bulb.

Lol I'm late far to regularly, but that doesn't mean traffic can do 50 in a 70 zone. I agree with the speed cameras and red light cameras, if only they displayed the speed properly at Moore Park road . Safety cameras only work where people know how to drive and have common sense, which on Sydney tend to be not that common (e.g. slamming on the brakes because light went yellow, even though you could have safely made it doing the speed limit, but then, who does the speed limit these days?). Here's a standard: If it takes you more than thirty seconds to reach 60 km/h, get off the roads. Not enough people blast their horns at below-par drivers. Car in front doing 60 in a 70 zone with nothing to prevent them doing the speed limit safely besides themselves? Depress horn button on steering wheel.

Check the specs of your subwoofer. If it says sealed enclosure volume should be roughly 26L then you should be good. 26L is, according to that ebay ad, the volume of that enclosure.

I'm doing the retrofit to my R32 lights. I am assuming you have projectors lights (which most R32s have). Get the FX-R projectors (RHS, 3" lens) from TRS. They go on with not much effort, don't need to make brackets up. Just need to tap one existing hole and drill + tap another, and they go straight onto the adjusters. Also order a pair of AMP > D2S straight adaptors (this). Yes you can find ones in China for $5 but you have to wait 1 month for them to come, whereas the TRS stuff usually turns up within two weeks. Get D2S HID kit, like this one. 4300K temperature is best. I found that recently, the cheap HID 4300K bulbs aren't 4300K but more yellow. Good to invest in something better I suppose. I will find out very soon if the bulbs in that kit are good. For dual high beam, I wired up an 'anti-flasher' relay wiring for the headlights using three relays and diodes. It allows you to flash high beams while still retaining the lowbeam (so essentially they act as two separate circuits, so the lows don't turn off when you high beam). Might be a bit more complicated approach, but then you can always use something from TRS. Butyl rubber glue stuff you can source locally.

Sorry, strange this didn't post. R32 RB26DETT please (YJ-RB202526-S1)

LOL Liam, they'll never find that hit and run driver. They are HWP, so shouldn't they be chasing down overloaded trucks doing 130 km/h, or busted up vehicles doing 70 in 100 zones?

Sorry, forgot to mention school zone. All school zones should be 25 km/h, 26 km/h = car crushed. All "non-hoon" cars are exempt of course, so that parent swerving all over the lane doing 55 is fine, you driving a car with shiny exhaust tip? RBT time.

I'll jump on board.