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niZmO_Man

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Everything posted by niZmO_Man

  1. niZmO_Man
    Go to driver's side strut tower, locate the boost solenoid (small tube looking thing), pull the whose off with a white band on it, squish it, it should feel hard (piece of plastic in there), cut that bit off (so you remove the white band/plastic restricter thing), put the hose back on, enjoy 12psi.
  2. niZmO_Man
    Just do 50 km/h everywhere like the rest of Sydney.
  3. niZmO_Man
    You mean 700 mmHg
  4. niZmO_Man
    1,000+ Nm? Nice diesel engine you got there
  5. niZmO_Man
    Check the links at the battery. They could come loose and you lose power to ECU/etc. (kills the engine, no fuel pump prime). This happened to me on the way down from Robertson, was an interesting experience. Apart from that, you'll have to do the usual "check wiring".
  6. niZmO_Man
    Also clean the injectors (or get them clean) and replace the fuel filter.
  7. niZmO_Man
    lightweight I believe. Thinner oil = easier for synchros to spin? (I got that from the apparent used car yard trick of putting auto trans oil into worn manual boxes).
  8. niZmO_Man
    GTS4 diffs are 4.3 ratio and GT-R ones are 4:11, 4.3 = quicker acceleration (as the GT-R gearbox has taller ratios compared to GTS-t).
  9. niZmO_Man
    I bought my R32 GTS-t for $6k, standard everything. Was an awesome daily, rev it and it'll go hard, drive it like a commuter car and it would easily do 600km to a tank. Shame my dad wrapped it around a pole on a wet day. These days you can get R33 for that price. If you don't mind the looks, they are a good car IMO. The 2.5L would make it a little easier to drive in traffic and the car would be more comfortable than an R32. Whatever you decide on, try to get one that's as close to standard as possible. There are good ones out there, you have to be patient.
  10. niZmO_Man
    Looks alright. Have to the chassis/engine/gearbox checked out though.
  11. niZmO_Man
    Originals are rubber I think. You can FRP ones from JustJap.
  12. niZmO_Man
    Sounds like you have AFM issues. Check the AFM plug. Do you have an oiled air filter?
  13. niZmO_Man
    Did you try a different AFM?
  14. niZmO_Man
    Pull off the dash surround and have a look at the wiring and headlight switch.
  15. niZmO_Man
    Probably just colour as the Nismo R32 came in gunmetal.
  16. niZmO_Man
    I think EvoXenon's work was posted a few pages back. I have one quesiton, why butcher a factory HID headlight to put projectors in? Why not get another pair of halogen headlights?
  17. niZmO_Man
    Spotted Silver R32 GT-R going north on Cowpasture rd. Nismo wheels (LMGT3?), Nismo sticker on boot. Very clean.
  18. niZmO_Man
    They probably just chucked the brackets on the n/a lights to save some cash.
  19. niZmO_Man
    Started my retrofit today. Morimoto FX-R projectors are almost the same as R32 projectors. Tapped one corner and drilled the other, went straight onto the adjusters. Tap: 5mm dia 0.8mm pitch (M5x0.8). Need AMP to D2S straight adaptors, which I didn't order beforehand so my retrofit is on a hold .
  20. niZmO_Man
    Aaaand the projectors have moulded brackets *slowpoke*.
  21. niZmO_Man
    Condition?
  22. niZmO_Man
    Sorry, didn't get a chance to grab the headlights out of storage yet. I have projectors headlights only, so may differ with reflector (N1).
  23. niZmO_Man
    The ones without the grill brackets are from the pov R32 Skylines. I will double-check whether you can detach the mounts tonight. From memory I do remember seeing screws holding them in place.
  24. niZmO_Man
    Different rolling diameters affects ATTESSA e.g. bigger rear tyres.
  25. niZmO_Man
    NISTune in the standard ECU
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