niZmO_Man

Tyres - if it's a daily driver, try looking at something like Kumho KU31. I have them on my car and I think they're great for what you pay. I like my cars to corner in the wet volt gauge - just pull it out and replace the bulb, a Philips head screwdriver and some patience is all you need. Thrust bearing - gearbox out, lots of labour, $600+? Climate control - there's a thread on this forum that explains how to fix it, sorry I can't remember where it is atm. My two cents Great buy

Spotted R35 white one getting onto Victoria Rd about 15mins ago.

I went from 180 to 260 Nismo one, have to get used to the different positioning of speeds but apart from that, they run fine.

Yep Skyline Spares in Wetherill Park, guy is good to deal with. Last time I was there he had two RB25s

Bump TEIN suspension - $600 3" cat-back exhaust - $200 Koni front/standard rear dampers with Eibach springs - $200 Standard GT-R cluster - $30 Standard GTS-t cluster - $30 Nardi steering wheel - $30 RB20DET (silvertop) computer/loom *no turbo* - $700 R32 GTS-t front brakes (4 pots) calipers/pads/rotors - $200 Standard R32 GTS-t side-mount intercooler - $20

Battery looks pretty new. Timed the engine properly, it was out one tooth <_< Someone dodgy did the timing belt on it. Anyways it was running okay, still misfiring (coilpacks maybe), then blew the head gasket haha. Thanks for your help people.

Spotted maroon BNR32 with BNR34 wheels at Condell Park yesterday evening

Spotted silver R32 GT-R with Nismo wheels on George St a couple of hours ago

Hey mate do you have any sets left for RB26DETT (R32)?

Tyres make a massive difference, it's the only thing connecting you to the road. And yes, full comp on my cars, expensive but just in case something happens...

I'll grab them if sale falls through

Not sure if troll or serious

Usually it's wax stuck on the nozzles, like H4x said, stick needle or similar into the openings and try to clear it up.

What about the connections?

I run 5W-50 in my car. The thicker the oil when cold the less protection it will provide when cold. Only if you notice the engine burning oil when cold should you go to a higher cold viscosity IMO. Perhaps the engine has been rebuilt? I'd be happy with those figures. I think I read that <140psi is in the trouble range.

This is a great idea, my girlfriend loves 370Z as well. Albert, you got trolled by maxima that's pretty obvious. Search for "370zrentals.com.au" in google/domain searches.

All swapped parts are from my car, which runs fine. Joe - cheers for that but yeah mate, see above.

Not as far as I know, they are for R32 GT-R

Guys, have an issue with a friend's GT-R, it runs rough. Car starts okay, idles okay, won't hold revs properly over 2,000 rpm. Sounds like ignition breakdown. It used a heap of fuel when I drove it to my place. I thought it was AFM issue, did the solder fix no change. So far I've swapped the following from my GT-R: AFM ECU Ignitor Coilpacks + spark plugs CAS I checked IC piping, all joints look good. Engine sounds okay, turbos are okay as well (makes 12psi no worries). Timing is good (15deg), cam gears are lined up. Next step: swap fuel rail and fuel pump. Might be FPR but not sure, didn't notice heaps of black smoke. Any tips/suggestions/past experiences?

Have you tried a different oil pressure sender? Another gauge/cluster?

R33 Brembo and R32 Brembo are same AFAIK

Why is that?

Nice cruising with you, very nice car Spotted BNR32 with BNR34 front end on Wednesday on M5

Spotted Silver[?] R32 GT-R turning off Cowpasture Rd under the M7 bridge, about 8-something earlier tonight, I was in my R31.

Shotgun Nismo side indicators