niZmO_Man

Ah yeah the Euros have weird seals to join the headlight housings. Definitely clear up those lenses, any hazing dramatically reduces light output (as I found on my Liberty with factory HIDs).

What I recommend: "H4 relay harness" for your Headlights, the R32 switch is passed though the headlight circuit, so it's common to see burn out switches because people have used "100W H3" or H3C bulbs, they are all shit. ALL BLUE TINTED BULBS ARE SHIT no matter what instagram ad you saw, every single HID/LED/whatever bulb is shit. Trust me, been there done that, every halogen bulb is shit. Your only real upgrade path is to retrofit proper HID projectors and ballast (or equivalent Koito LED projectors). trust me when i say i've been there done that, no replacement for displacement. And that's saying with me driving a BMW F45 with factory LED bi-LED, and my R32 having aftermaket bi-Xenon (morimoto d4s) you cannot argue with physics

hey prank, i've been low key fiddling with HID headlights, so could improve yours (barring whether your one is Evo-R or minid2s 4.o onwards or improved) yes yes i have a lot to answer for regarding headlights, i'll get around to it. for reference, my F45 has factory LED bi-LED projectors and it shits all over anything we've seen so far.

to be honest, you need a new mechanic. Where are yo located? This is ridiculous (actually not that far fetched since people are trying to take advantage of jap import owners)

probably cheaper to make your own... might as well go widebody. Pumped guards ftw

blah blah you only have two real modern alternatives: Replace engine with GM LS1/LSX etc. V8 Or... Replace engine with 4-rotor engine or Hartley V12 Everything else is futile.

surely it can't be that hard to replace your spark plugs, oil filer and engine oil?

As long as Enkei and RAYS lives, we'll be fine.

Damn... My only interaction with Neil was my shitbox spraying petrol all over him during an SMSP East track day (I was in front of his Radical during an out lap, with a full tank, petrol was spraying out of the overflow valve). He was super chill about it. But that left a lasting impression on me. Rest in peace mate.

Beautiful car

Having done a plug conversion on an Accord Euro (CU2) trying to use as much factory bits as possible, it will depend on your head unit. TBH saving the big headaches of figuring out wiring diagrams and stuff, just run your own wires, bypass all the factory crap. I went to the trouble of getting plugs from aliexpress that'll fit the factory Accord Panasonic unit (it's like a 7ch system). Much easier just to run wires separately.

4 years later... doubt it

Hell years dirty 30.

BIG DOLLAH BUILD

perfect, 235 front, 245 rear wide tyres, roll guards to make them fit. as long as it clears your brakes

Don't put HID or LED bulbs in reflectors, glare and the output isn't good. If you want modern style lighting, no choice but to retrofit (should cost below $1,000 all up if you do it yourself). Series 3 GT-R projector headlights are super expensive. The outer plastic lens must be clear, any hazing/yellowing dramatically reduces output. Alternatively if you're doing country driving, can try a light bar for high beam?

Your location? My advice as an old fart: spend as least amount of money on your car as possible, once you have a large income, then you can spend absurd amounts on your car.

Could only get a 1:03.535 (bronze) for the Road Atlanta Red Bull X2019 one. I suck at that track.

Even the same size tyres but different brand/tread pattern makes a difference.

Gotta resize those pics, 4,000px by 3,000px woo the detail Looking awesome, I wish Infiniti did better and were still around. Remember folks, this is a luxury car so 1,700kg isn't heaps .

Although, if you're in south-western sydney, i highly recommend you stay away from any shop on Hoxton Park Road.

CV's aren't' hard to rebuild, if you don't have the tools then yeah, throw it towards your nearest garage. Any half decent "mechanic" can rebuild a CV, it's quite common to do since there are millions of FWD cars about.

Awesome stuff. I should sell my R32 and get a V37 RedSport haha. Looking forward to this build.

Remember our cars are 30+ years old so expect the rubber bits to leak. I'd go around your engine bay with a can of "start ya bastard" or similar and look for leaks. FYI I got my car 10+ years ago with the standard boost restrictor in place, I removed it when I got it and the car never had any issues since (besices a leaking manifold gasket). tl;dr- Look for leaks before proceeding.

brake clearance depends on spoke design GT-R size I'd go 9.5 +15 or +12, and if you've rolled your guards, 10" +20. People run 10.5 but I reckon that's too wide.