niZmO_Man

wow that's pretty good

From being around here a decade or so, generally: Quaife in the front, rebuild standard mechanical rear (since they're like 1-way or whatever from factory).

Nice colour! Has that rad 90's vibe.

I try to play a couple times a week, but yeah life man, stops you from gaming all the time

I drove back-to back a B250 (i think it was 2015-2016) and my 2015 BMW 225i Active Tourer. $10k cheaper than the hatches, so got more interior space and top spec, loads of power for FWD etc. B-class = felt real cheap inside, gearbox was weird. So insta-bought the BMW because it was nicer to drive (torque converter auto) and interior was nicer. Not bad for $20k just as COVID lockdown hit (cheaper than any Japanese/Korean hatch weirdly, although a couple years older). Thankfully mine only beeps when it detects cars (no active assists), the "driver assists" are never good (makes sense when you're busy staring at your phone while you drive I suppose). tl;dr- B-series and Active Tourer are underrated (basically GLB/X1 without the extra bulk). Apologies for the rant.

Yeah looks like we have to do some upgrades 😔

-2 to -2.5 degrees hehe

Yep, back in the day when you could pick up a Stagea RB25 NEO for $1,500 it was worth it. These days... just chuck your V8 or B58 in.

from my limited BMW experience: - they burn oil WTF (B48 FTW 170kW engine) - dump oil every 5,000km and you'll be ok.. until it drops a bearing and rebuild time. replace engine with B58

that's pretty good condition, those chips are nothing. Get a mobile repairer to sort it out. Nice wheels, I had white 17's on my GT-R once, looked nice.

only one TH1 i believe https://www.gtr-registry.com/en-r32-colours.php#ProductionColours

assume they're dodgy unless proven otherwise. There used to be Japanese history/odometer check type services that would trace back the VIN of the car as far back as possible to get a more truer history, dunno if they're still around.

ok so you have a catch can, so it isn't stock. i'm guessing oil on MAF wire, and it's broken (hence why it won't rev over 2,000 rpm). You'll need to find another MAF.

what do you mean by "slight adjustment to my MAF"? Also you've given zero info on what you have, e.g. mods.

Yeah the 206kW/280hp agreement was too low, really hampered the performance cars (not that it mattered outside Japan, e.g. Supra).

https://www.gtr-registry.com/en-nissan-skyline-r31.php

Never cheap out on brakes, tyres, suspension. I learnt the hard way at Oran Park lol

the good old days

Also to note, in the Subaru world, Whiteline endlinks have been reported to break... often. So going Hardrace or GKTech would be my option.

What?

Sounds like yo should get a Lexus RX350h

Delicious!

Probably cheaper to make your own copies.

I miss my old stock R32 GTS-t, but I tell you, the full factory RB20DET silvertop (including exhaust) was a bit of a struggle until you want past 2,000rpm (coming from an Aus-del R31 with RB30E). With my GT-R, anything below 2,000rpm is a clutch-in scenario. With my limited experience with NEO6, I can say anything below 2,000 rpm is a struggle (seems to be a common theme with turbo engines). Even with my BMW B48 (F45 FWD 2-series hatch), anything below 1,500rpm is a struggle, so keep those revs up!