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niZmO_Man

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Everything posted by niZmO_Man

  1. hey mate, if I had the option, I would do the timing belt + supporting hardware (pulleys, etc etc) since our engines are getting old. I wouldn't trust some rando's "maintenance intervals" unless you really trust them. Normally you'd change them around the 100,000km mark but remember belts degrade with age, so it's up to you if you think it's worth the peace of mind to change them now (I would). I wouldn't trust a HKS or other branded belt such as Gates/Nismo/Nissan/MINES/etc. to last longer than 10 years. Hope that helps.
  2. Might as well throw in a Peter Brock "polariser box" in while you're at it.
  3. Do you notice any other noises in the car? I was going to suggest unplugging the small plug from your HICAS controller under the rear parcel shelf (if you still have it, that thing does weird shit to my car).
  4. LOL yeah I understand. I still have all my parts from circa 2013
  5. So potentially worse than AUDM RedSport?
  6. Our engines don't like being below 2,000rpm. So downshift and keep the revs above 3,000rpm (where you have positive boost). Need to adjust your driving style a little compared to say 3800 EcoTech Buick/Holden engine
  7. How is the all Japanese infotainment system? Can convert to English?
  8. Who knew that back in circa 1986 the Nissan engineers figured all this out...
  9. VK56 came from the Patrol yeah, so maybe there is some hope further down the line... I suppose crate motors will be good for builders/drifters.
  10. Euros are shitboxes man. My next car going to be a Lexus or Hyundai.
  11. Genuinely amazed by this haha. nice one
  12. New update. Good to see they're still working on the game, even though the "added cars/tracks" are very limited. Honestly I know the even numbered GTs are the best.
  13. New head unit? Run all new wires, the standard 1988 wires aren't that good, especially now. You only need 2 wires from the factory head unit plug (+12V constant and Ignition).
  14. Do you have all the brackets and stuff? Should be sort of figurable if you climb under the car and try to line it all up.
  15. Yeah broadly speaking, throw the sensors on new wheels, then tell your car to do a reset/re-learn via the infotainment system. I can't recall if newer BMWs need new sensors (probably since it's "German engineered", but I hope Nissans don't.
  16. That's good, because the gears for the speedo inside the gearbox can break if you don't have matching sensor (on the pre-R34 era cars), then you're screwed haha.
  17. Try to use as least amount of factory stuff as possible haha. Also chuck a write up here if you're bothered, might help a fellow V-skyliner.
  18. The Aisin 8spd automatic in my re-skinned Mini still going strong after 100k km, just sayin' You could get F48, since I highly doubt your missus would approve of F45 (basically same thing but non-SUV). Or get a Mini hehehe. B48 engine goes hard, like SR20 but with plastic bits haha.
  19. Depend what sort of wheels you have. Diameter wise it should be fine, but need caliper clearance (back-space).
  20. I wish they had C35 Laurels in GT, I'd drive the doors off it.
  21. Behind paywall, and my umatrix managed Firefox didn't display anything meaningful. But the title looks promising hehe.
  22. One option would be to find the head unit line out to the factory amp, and intercept/use that as input to your new amp (have to wire up separate speakers of course). I went through something similar with my old CU2 Accord Euro (has a factory 7-ch Panasonic amp, which gets fed by some weird built-in equaliser in the HU). Pain in the arse to try to keep it factory-ish (I went to the trouble of finding compatible connector on aliexpress and then wiring it all up).
  23. Yeah i got 2 silvers, gold too much for me on a controller. Been doing weekly challenges (only get like an hour or two to play per week recently, been busy with other stuff). Solid $700-900k after you cash in the tickets (and get clean racing bonuses hehe).
  24. You need to post a price up mate. At the very least.
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